CFB on front track roller of LT35

[WV Sawmiller]

  Have any of you ever replaced the Cam Follower Bearing beside the front track roller on an LT 35? It looks like you simply unscrew it with a 5/16 Allen wrench but I don't see how you access it because of the location. I can't see an easy way to get either an Allen wrench or a rachet with an allen tip on it into the location.

  I was tripping the power feed breaker yesterday and suspect this is at least part of the problem. When I move the head forward the front CFB does not turn. I can lift/move it aside with a pry bar and roll it but it des not spin very freely. The rear CFB seems to roll properly.

    Access is my main problem at this stage of the game. I have a spare CFB ready to put in.

[MartyParsons]

Hello, 
   Hello
Support the saw head. Best place is to use a 48" can't hook at the rest pin location. This will support the head . Lower the head on support until weight is off the cam bearing. You need to remove the 3/8" bolts on each side and remove the black bracket. 15/16 socket and Allen wrench. You could soak the bearing in ATF. I say toss it in garbage. But you could possibly bring it back to life. 
Hope this helps. 
Marty

[WV Sawmiller]

Marty,

  Thanks. I may have improperly described the CFB I am talking about the one in front of the head when sawing which is closer to the rear of the mill. I talked with Bob at customer Service today.

  The main problem is access. There is one inch between the weldments and the side of the mill under the rail. I found I had to drop the chain as it was in the way. (I also found I had to move the head back away from the live power strip as touching the strip with a wrench was not a good idea.) Easy fix  on the chain - loosen one nut. Then I needed a very long extension on a 3/8" socket wrench with a 5/16" allen bit tip. The problem then was there was still not enough room between the weldment to get the 5/16" tip in the fitted slot in the CFB. I found there was just enough clearance I could just barely get a 6" long allen wrench to slide in the slot but then I had the short tip to turn. I put a cheater bar on it and the torque just twisted at the little ball head on the allen wrench in the frozen CFB bolt and the bolt never came free.

    I sprayed the bolt on the CFB good with WD40 and PB Blaster penetrating oil and got a straight 5/16" allen wrench and tried again but the frozen bolt still won't budge. I may have to try heat and let it soak in the penetrating oil (PB Blaster) longer.

  Bob at WM Indy said his wrench tip fits right in. Mine absolutely will not. It would if I had 1/8" more clearance but I don't and no way to get it without removing the entire head and cutting or bending some metal. I looked at longer bits but had to buy a $40 set to get the one I need and they all had the ball tip and I have no confidence they would not just twist apart too. I might could cut a 5/16" straight allen wrench and fit it in a 5/16" socket and get enough torque to free it.

  Meanwhile with all the spraying and working on it the CFB seems to be rolling properly anyway now so I may not even need to replace it anyway.

  The design was either not well thought out for access to replace this wearing part or the QA missed a tolerance spec here. A new clean CFB bolt can probably be installed with 1/8 turns with an allen wrench or long bit but any attempt to use much torque to tighten or loosen is going to tear up wrenches or bits.

  I guess I am luck to have this last 8 years and 1500 hours without having to replace one.

[ladylake]

 If they used locktite you need to heat it a little or it will never come loose.  Steve