LT35 Clamp Hydraulic Line

[Rhodemont]

I had just finished on a couple beams yesterday and was shutting down.  When I retracted the clamp back all the way I got a burst of hydraulic fruid.  Move the clamp back in all ok.  Retract it again and all ok until it was at full back stop and got another burst.  The line has a small slit in it just above the collar on the connector to the cylinder.  The top of the collar has slowly sliced into the line each time I retract and the cylinder pivots requiring the line to bend a little.  There is not much room from where the line comes out of the mill frame to the cylinder and no play was left for the line to flex without this slicing action.  I can work with it for now since only sprays when retracted to full stop but that will get worse for sure.  It will not be too hard to disconnect the line on each end but fishing the repaired/replaced line back through the frame will be interesting.

[Stephen1]

It would be great to have a fitting to join new and old line and pull on the old and new comes into place.

[Magicman]

Yup, call Wood-Mizer and they will tell you the length for the new hose.  The hose lengths are also listed in my Operators Manual.  Mine are color coded with paint.




Use a fitting to connect the two hoses together.  Pull out the old and in the new. 

[YellowHammer]

If it did it once, it will do it again.  Take the opportunity to make it better than it was.

I have had issues with hoses not being long enough and not having enough room for flexural strain relief on my mill, and blowing themselves or cracking the fitting or O ring over time.  I pull them out, carry them to a local hydro shop and have them build the hose a little longer so I can put a little coil or curve in it to unload the hose.  I also put some chafing wrap on my hoses where needed when reinstalling.

[KWH]

If you have the time to wait, I would try Discount Hydraulic Hose.com. I have bought a good amount of hose and fittings from them in the past. I make my own hoses but have ordered complete hoses also. I think their prices are a lot cheaper than our local shops. 

[KWH]

I just looked it up. for a3/8 hose I can make on up with JIC swivel ends, 4.50 for each end and 3.10 a foot in between. If the old hose is still good, I could splice a short hose on the end. That is my replacement cost, labor cost visiting with FF friend. PM if interested.

[Southside]

I am with Yellowhammer, see if you can build in a flex loop or even change the orientation so that spot does not get stressed again.  

[fluidpowerpro]

Also, when installing a hose, when you tighten the swivel end, make sure you hold the end of the hose with a second wrench to prevent the hose from twisting.

[barbender]

 I don't know if WM uses the same hose on the newer mills, but my ol 97 has lines that are a plastic of some sort- no steel braid in them. From the searching I've done, this hose is typically used for pressure washer hose. 

 That said, I've found field replaceable ends for this material. When you are looking at a hose that is 12' to 16' long, I prefer to pit a new end on, and add a short extension hose to make up the difference. Then it is also much, much easier to replace if you damage the working end again.

 You can get field replaceable ends for most types of hydraulic hose.

[Magicman]

my ol 97 has lines that are a plastic of some sort- no steel braid in them.

There was a change because my '98 hoses have steel braid. 

[Rhodemont]

All fixed.  I decided to go with a all new hose at $88.  They made it 6 inches longer than the original so now there is slack to relieve the bending when the clamp moves in and out.  The hydraulic shops would not clamp onto the old hose.  A nearby shop that does snow plows would but by the time I added an extra length with fittings  he wanted $65 and no guarantee.  Thanx KWH for your offer to help out, just a bit far to get to you.

And now for the new hydraulic issue:  For quite a while I have seen a little fluid on the back stop hydraulic cylinder that rotates them up and down.  Did not worry about it much.  Well today I took a close look and found the fitting to have a fine crack in it which bleeds a little when clamps fully retract down.  I am going to order a new fitting but a clean up with alcohol (isopropyl not bourbon) and JB Weld will likely keep me going a long time.

[Ben Cut-wright]

JB Weld will likely keep me going a long time.

Glad you got the hose fixed.  You are wasting your time trying to stop a hydraulic pressure leak with JB Weld. 

[Magicman]

The part that you are pointing to is a Hydraulic Sequence Valve.  One passes fluid to the side supports and opens to allow the log turner to move after the side supports are fully upright.  The other fully lowers the log turner before passing fluid to lower the side supports.

[Rhodemont]

Ah yes, I was trying to figure out what was going on.

[Rhodemont]

Hope I just had my #3 for the week and all will be clear sawing.
1-Clamp hydraulic line replace
2-Crack in hydraulic sequence valve.  JB weld is holding with a new valve ($77) on the way
3-Power feed and return has been sluggish last couple months getting worse and worse.  I have thought it an electrical issue so have been cleaning ground and drum switch.  Today it would not run at Got my voltmeter to see if getting power to the motor.  Did not need to use it.  I have never tried to power feed without the engine running making a racket.  Well if you turn the key on and flip the drum switch you can hear the feed motor running and can feed and return.  Yep got power.  So, took the belt cover off and that is the problem.  Belt looking stretched and ragged.  I tightened it up by moving the motor back in the mounting slots.  Feed is now working great!  New belt on the way also.