Parts saw project 154SE/254SE

[DHansen]

I prefer keeping stuff stock if at all possible.  But none of my saws just sit on the shelf, so performance and reliability are priorities.  I have put domed piston in a 268 to improve compression and performance, removed spark arrestors if necessary and swap out carburetors based on need verses spending more money on a new carb.  But if you don't have the time or enjoy working on the old stuff, it is not worth the time invested.   For me it is relaxing and enjoyable to get an old, quality made product back to functional condition.  The better it looks along the way is just a plus.  I also like doing this on vintage firearms. 

WARNING THREAD DRIFT AHEAD.

Winchester Model 1892 in 32-20


Winchesters model 1973, both in 44-40.  Rifle and SRC. (Saddle Ring Carbine).
 

[DHansen]

Making a Frankenstein chainsaw was furthest from my mind. 

[DHansen]

What do you think Al, we can get an oil war, fuel debate and caliber argument all in one thread?

[Spike60]

In  the above post before too long somebody is bound to say use some kind of "designer fuel " premixed .50 to one non ethanol fuel at $16 a quart .That might work but you can replace a lot of fuel lines vs $64 a gallon gasoline .Then again things evolve such as replacing the ever present oil wars being replaced by the gasoline debate .

I run my Jonsered 70E's on a special single malt fuel from Scotland. 

[CJ154SG]

In  the above post before too long somebody is bound to say use some kind of "designer fuel " premixed .50 to one non ethanol fuel at $16 a quart .That might work but you can replace a lot of fuel lines vs $64 a gallon gasoline .Then again things evolve such as replacing the ever present oil wars being replaced by the gasoline debate .

I run my Jonsered 70E's on a special single malt fuel from Scotland. 

My Shindaiwa 350 will pull a 24" bar with an 8-pin sprocket through 5 foot diameter ironwood with a couple shots of sake added. I figger its worth at least 6 horsepower 

P.S. I only run used motor oil at 10:1 with kerosene. I also got a great deal on NGK stock, BTW

P.P.S .38-55 is all I need to put down a Bighorn at 900 yds. Just sayin'.

[DHansen]

CJ,  old chainsaws and you are hyphenated,  cool dude.  Wish you were closer.

Bob, single malt, for both you and your saw?

[Spike60]

Indeed. Talisker Storm from the isle of Skye.

More interesting discussion than debating mix oils, eh?

[DHansen]

Looking at the throttle linkage and plastic block that I have photos of in post #38.  I have three different throttle plastic blocks on these 154/254 saws.  One style block has no hole on the end, one style has hole and no cover and one has the hole with a pivoting open/closed cover.  The only thing I can come up with is with the cover in the closed position is it providing some additional trapped heat for the fuel line that runs through that plastic throttle block?  I have searched the 77 page service manual, operators manual and various on line threads/videos' about the 154 series of saws.  Even some that were from Sweden that I needed to translate to read.  I come up with no information on this pivoting door.      All three of these styles are interchangeable.

[CJ154SG]

A mysterious mystery, Dave . The original 1983-05 IPL listed the complete throttle rod unit as part # 501 87 68-01 and the cover was also available separately as part # 501 87 27 01. All following 154 IPLs (1983-10, 1984-10, and 1985-08) only list the complete unit, but still show the cover in the drawing. 

Beginning with the first 254 IPL (1986-04), the part number for the unit remained the same, but the cover was gone from the drawing, never to return. The part number for the unit changed to 501 87 68-03 in the 1990-05 254 IPL and remained the same through the end of production (last IPL is dated 2001-09), with no cover pictured.

It is important to note that IPL drawings were not always updated according to newer or revised parts, so there is only so much that can be derived from them. For example, the 1986-04 to 2001-09 IPLs all show a full-skirt piston in the drawing, when it had been replaced with a half-skirt version partway through 1985 which was used until the end of production.

Whatever Husky's original intent for the cover was, by 1986 it had been eliminated from the throttle rod unit for good. I have found no Service Bulletins referring to it. For something to warrant a Service Bulletin, there had to be a significant change or problem. Whatever theoretical purpose it was supposed to serve, it was evidently a non-issue in practical terms. Otherwise, they wouldn't have eliminated the cover for the final 15-16 years of production.

[DHansen]

I was running low on top covers and clutch covers.  So not wanting to spend $40.00 - $50.00 US dollars on a used top cover. I opted to attempt repairing the damaged plastic parts.  The first top cover has a large burn hole and what looks like someone cut out the burned section.  Poorly cut out and they cracked the leading edge of the cover.  I used the same two-part glue that I fixed the fuel inlet nipple with.  (photo of glue in post #18) I built up the area with four layers of this glue.  I have tried cleaning up this dried two-part glue with gasoline, Goof-off, carburetor cleaner, naphtha and brake cleaner. None had any effect.  The repair area is solid and strong.  Can sand and handle if roughly.  Photos of my first top cover salvage for the 154SE.

[Spike60]

Just as valuable as service bulletins are what they call IPL updates. These explain the when and why of parts changes during production. They will list the serial number break when the changes occurred and to what degree they are interchangeable between early and later models. 

Not sure if available to the public. But if you can get into service documents, the format to type in dhould be something like "ipl updates, model number". Sosomething like ipl updates, 154 might work. Not sure about caps. 

[DHansen]

Two top covers completed and good enough to put back to work.  Next, I need to start working on the damaged clutch covers and broken brake systems. With these I should be able to get two more of the 154's back to being functional.  I could just put the covers on with the damaged plastic but wanted them to look better.  And would prefer the brake systems actually function correctly. 

[DHansen]

So, talking about the plastic clutch cover, when it is melted around the brake band, I am assuming it is caused by someone running it with the clutch brake applied.  Is this correct or is something else causing the clutch cover to melt?  I also have noted that one of the 154's has a metal clutch cover.  I am also trying a coil spring to the knee assembly from a 141 to see if it will work.  Having to start improvising on parts.

[CJ154SG]

Melted clutch covers are probably the number one part failure on the '54 family. Anything that gets the clutch really hot will cook them. Guys would just push them too hard, and not lube or clean them out enough, and the cover was the weak link in that equation. With a modicum of maintenance, the clutch cover will be fine, it just isn't as tolerant of abuse as a magnesium cover.

Husky finally got enough complaints with the 262, and it's heavier-duty 3-shoe clutch that could dump even more heat into the plastic cover, that they updated the covers to magnesium in 1996 for the 254, 257, and 262. There was a guide pin on the inside of the cover that needed to be ground off in order for it to fit on crankcases built prior to the 14th week of 1994. My guess is that one of these newer covers found its way onto your 154.

Good idea on the 141 spring. The same spring was used on the following models: 42, 136, 141, 154, 238, 242, 246, and 254 (up to 1996 and the new mag cover and brake assembly). Part # 501 87 54-01.

[DHansen]

Almost ready to fire up the next completed 154SE.  Still a little rough around the edges.  On the clutch drum there is a washer that is attached to the drum.  There is another washer that looks the same dimensions.  Two of the saws have had both the attached washer and the separate washer installed.  Stacked on top and just prior to threading on the clutch shoe assembly.  Photos of the drum and washer.  The clutch centers better if I leave that additional washer off.

[DHansen]

I did get a clutch cover and clutch brake system repaired and fully operational.  The broken one from post #62.



Photo of the repaired area at the leading edge of the knee assembly where it attaches to the cover with a pin.

[DHansen]

I put the extra washer in place as it holds the clutch hub needle bearing in position. 

I completed this 154SE and am down to Two donor saws.  This last one needed more time to complete.  Rebuilt carburetor.  Removed lots of carbon from the exhaust port and combustion chamber.  Replaced the muffler due to a hole in the muffler.  Not a rust hole, but some type of cut.  Replaced the clutch shoes and spring assembly as the old one had damage to the shoes.  Looked like hammer damage and chips missing from someone fighting with it.  Replaced clutch brake band, put a 141 brake knee spring in.  Replaced the AV mounts and the rubber bushing at the rear lower of the case.  Installed exhaust heat shield between the head and the muffler.  Put in a new air conductor around the flywheel.

It is the wrong starter recoil cover, but I do have the correct one.  Working on a new handle and cord for that one.



The case could use a paint job, but I wanted to see how well it would cut first.

[DHansen]

A big thank you out to Spike, with the spare parts from him I will be able to get the last two of the five up and running.  Will be mid-summer before that task gets completed.  And thanks for all the help answering questions on these saws.  CJ and Spike both have so much information that is just not found anywhere else.  That air door on the throttle link I found matches up with an opening on some of the 154 models with a hole in the crankcase just in front of the trigger and above the fuel tank/handle assembly.  On others this is solid cast material part of the crankcase. This works in tandem with the cold/heated air door between the head area and carburetor area on the top cover.  Obviously, they determined no need for it as it was phased out in three changing designs.  With the top cover door closed and the throttle lever door open, there is an air path opened from just in front on the trigger above the tank, directly to the bottom screen of the air filter. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Well he may be gruff and grumbly at times but Spike has a real soft spot for guys like us that are trying to do the right thing in the right way and make the old ones come back to life. He has saved my butt more than once.

Glad you got it figured out and running right. There is no better feeling than that, right? 👍 

[DHansen]

You are lucky to have him so close to you.  I haven't seen the grumbly side of him.   

[Old Greenhorn]

Well, I don't get around much, but I don't know any 60 something or plus guys that don't have a grumbly side.

 I just texted him a little bit ago and asked him what the top end rpm should be on this 2050 I'm fussing over. I had forgotten if it was 9,500 or 12,500 because I just got a tach and am not used to it.
He texted back: "23,500"
I texted back "Really!?"
He said: "might not hold together at 23,500"
"12,500"
 Yeah, that's better. He had me gong for a microsecond. 
I have other stuff I have to fix better before I do the final tuning on this thing anyway. It's not quite ready for prime time. Something snapped, flipped, or moved with he throttle cable this morning it it wouldn't work. Spent about an hour trying to figure out the correct routing and operation. Took it apart, carb and all, 3 times. Bob warned me about that a couple of days ago, now I know what he meant. That's fixed now, but the handle is still not following the right bends and the tuning tool holes don't line up well at all. I want to get that right, but it means another series of 'take it apart, adjust the shape, put it back on and try it, take it apart, adjust the bends.....'. My back is shot from standing at the bench and it's beer thirty.

[DHansen]

Pack it up, bring a six pack and go see Bob.  But don't tell him your calling him grumbly.  You can rest your back, drink a cold one and watch Bob put it together.  

[Old Greenhorn]

Nah, I sure can't do that. Bob is very generous for sure, but I can't ask him for anything I can do myself, that's just not fair. The tedium of getting the frame and handle lined up as original is my problem, as is all the basic repairs. To be able to ask Bob for help when I am stumped is where the value is. I sure hope he knows that. Stuff that I foundered over he does in seconds, but only because it's clean and assembled, but lacks that professional finesse that he has.

EDIT to add: Now I should say that when and IF I get this thing running as god as I can, I have no issue showing it to Bob to see if I did everything right. I only know what I know, and I don't know what I don't know. If I missed something and it runs right (to me) I won't know it, but he will. Even though I now have a tach, I am still confused on the function of that "L" screw and don't think I have it right at all.
 It's frustrating for me at times to go over something repeatedly until it's correct, but that's how I learn, and I can be a slow learner a lot of the time. My lack of skills and knowledge is not his problem, it's mine.