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What raker gauges do y'all use?

Started by Guydreads, March 06, 2025, 01:55:32 PM

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Guydreads

The question is pretty self-explanatory :wink_2: . Just curious what you guys have noticed when using different brands of raker gauges and what you would recommend. It's been a while since I posted... Good to be back. I've had a lot going on in life the last few months. If you're wondering why my age changed (if you noticed), it's just because I was 13 when I got here and thought there might be age restrictions  ffcheesy

TreefarmerNN

Stihl 2 in 1 file.  Easiest and quickest way I know to get both the teeth sharp and the rakers at the right height.

beenthere

I use the Husky roller gauge to file and the attached plate to file the rakers. I files individual rakers, one at a time.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

arojay

Chips...  I sharpen a few strokes every fill-up.  When the chips start to look small and thin I make a few strokes on each raker before I sharpen.  Not very precise but it works for me.
440B skidder, JD350 dozer, Husqvarnas from 335 to 394. All spruced up

DHansen

I have what Treefarmer and Beenthere are using.  Both are good.  2 in 1 is faster, but roller is more precise.  I use the rollers most often and if I am in the garage.  Use the 2 in 1 in the field for a quick dress up when refueling.  Roller is actually keeping the rakers more uniform and at the correct depth.   I also round off the leading edge of the raker after I flat file.  

John Mc

Like others have mentioned, I generally use the gauge on the Husqvarna roller guide to set my rakers. I like these progressive depth gauge tools better because they customize the raker exactly to it's associated tooth, making it less important to file all teeth to the same length.  The ones that lay across the top of several teeth with a little dropped section don't do that.

An alternative to the one on the roller guides is one of these. works on the same principle as the tool attached to the roller guide
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Old Greenhorn

Well put me in the roller guide camp also. Like John I also have those flat raker guides (which are hard to find in .325) but I am not sure who is making them anymore. What I had bought was NOS. I don't do rakers in the field because I only hit them every 3rd or 4th sharpening. Some Husky roller guides did not come with the raker guide attached. I think I have one of those in .325. But I like the single raker guide. I think those ones that take and average (actually the two highest teeth in the group) are nonsense.
 I tried a lot of different gizmos, but never the two in one. I just think they are big and bulky. Also I wonder how do you guys that use them adjust for softwood or hardwood?
 I also run a file over the front edge of the raker free hand after I file them down to size. This conversation reminds me I have to get some new raker files, mine are all getting pretty worn down. I use it for too much stuff.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way.  NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

arojay

Not to hijack at all but I had an instructor years ago who had a method for square filing where he touched up the rakers while sharpening teeth.  I probably should have paid more attention, but I don't square file because... I round file!
440B skidder, JD350 dozer, Husqvarnas from 335 to 394. All spruced up

YellowHammer

I hit mine with the Stihl USG grinder every now and then, but then do routine sharpening and raker dropping with the Stihl Two in One.  I even had a second grinder set up just for rakers, years go.  No more.  The 2&1 brings the rakers and teeth back to spec, all with the same swipe of the gizmo.  Put the bar in a vice, and it's almost too easy. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

PoginyHill

I have used gauges in the past, but generally don't anymore. If the saw doesn't work too hard in the cut with a sharp chain, I know I need more bite, so I'll file down the rakers a bit next sharpen. When the saw works hard and occasionally grabs in the cut, I know I'm taking the max bite I can.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

Spike60

After all these years I just do it by eye. 
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

Quote from: Spike60 on Yesterday at 07:46:37 AMAfter all these years I just do it by eye.
My eyesight just isn't good enough to judge the difference of a few thousandths of an inch and get uniform, repeatable results... even if I remembered to bring my reading glasses.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

Wouldn't claim I can detect thousandths of an inch, but I do get consistent and repeatable results, and have for years. Some folks can tune a guitar by ear; some can't do it without an electronic tuner. 
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

hedgerow

I never sharpen chains with a file I just use a grinder. Have one grinder set up for rakers only and normally every third or fourth sharpen I grind a little off the rakers. I just swap chains in the field and worry about sharpening later. I usually have two guys I need to keep chain saws going for when we are cutting firewood. 
 

TreefarmerNN

Quote from: John Mc on Yesterday at 08:18:45 AM
Quote from: Spike60 on Yesterday at 07:46:37 AMAfter all these years I just do it by eye.
My eyesight just isn't good enough to judge the difference of a few thousandths of an inch and get uniform, repeatable results... even if I remembered to bring my reading glasses.

I'm in the same boat.  When I had good eyesight, I didn't have enough experience to do a good job.  Now, I can't see well enough hence the 2-1 works well for me.  I did mess up one chain and had to refile it because the way my vise is located, I was filing the teeth and rakers more on one side than the other.  The chain was sharp but cut crooked, (duh) and I couldn't see the difference.  Putting a caliper on teeth on each side showed the error of my ways.  I was doing the same number of file strokes on each side but putting different pressure on the file. 

Guydreads

Thanks fellas for the insight. I regularly use a grinder on my chains; it's a lot quicker than hand filing. I've done it by eye for a while but have heard some stuff about raker gauges and was curious

ehp

I'm not as good as most of you but I do not uses any gauge to file rackers , I watch the top of the racker where I'm filing and the flat spot grows as I lower the racker so I watch that closely , Also placing steel on top of the cutting edge of the tooth dulls the cutting edge on the tooth . Ya most would say nope but put that cutting edge under a 50 power scope and take a look, yes it does . But thats just me , I have filed so many chains for logging and timbersport racing I hardly even have to look

DHansen

With the roller style, when doing the rakers, the metal from to tool does not contact the cutting edge of the tooth.

DHansen

I think what ever works best for you is what we tend to use.  We get good at it with what we have and what we like.  We all can tell when we have that chain sharpened correctly.  And in the end it's us and not the file that makes the difference. 

doc henderson

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

I have a chain sharpener and only use the gauge to set the depth of the wheel.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Kodiakmac

About every 2nd or 3rd filing I lie a flat file on top of the teeth and, if the rakers are less than the thickness of a dime from the bottom side of the file, I give them a few strokes.
Robin Hood had it just about right:  as long as a man has family, friends, deer and beer...he needs very little government!
Kioti rx7320, Wallenstein fx110 winch, Echo CS510, Stihl MS362cm, Stihl 051AV, Wallenstein wx980  Mark 8:36

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