372 clone, no spark, any ideas.

[Hilltop366]

If the kill wire unplugs directly from the coil just go ahead and leave the wire off to eliminate it from the equation.

[old2stroke]

I was NOT suggesting that you fool around with the timing with the coil you have.  All I was saying is many AM coils do not work because the timing is wrong but might be able to work if you are willing to modify the timing.
When you are mounting a coil, the laminated core of the coil MUST be grounded to the cylinder as the coil gets it's ground through the steel core.  You cannot check the primary with an ohm meter but you can use it to check continuity right from the plug cap, through the coil secondary and steel core to the cylinder.  Should be about 5k ohms or higher but not an open circuit.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yes, I eliminate the kill switch circuit at the coil connection keep it simple. But I did check that circuit for unexpected shorts and proper operation, several time in fact.

I never thought the coil gap was that sensitive, but maybe it is. I just checked my business card again. It actually measures .015". Guess I should have bought cheaper cards. So next time I bench them and try again (maybe in 5 minutes, maybe tomorrow morning) I will find a thinner card or more suitable shim. It's the only thing that is common and maybe .010 is good and .015 is not? It does make sense.

I do have spark on the OEM saw with the original coil, but it just won't start or even pop over. Again, maybe it's a weak spark because the gap is too big?

I decided to go with Bob's suggestion. I started drinking. Then I went and did some simple manual work cleaning up the swarf and small junk where I had been hand splitting wood this winter. It looks much better and that, at least, made me feel good. Then I spent some time cleaning my work bench and testing my setup, lighting, and camera choice/location for my video conference with Husky Sweden next week. That's figured out now, sort of, so I can stop worrying about it.

Dinner is gonna be ready soon, so I guess tomorrow is another day.

[Spike60]

Dave's numbers are correct. They match the Husky gap tool which has .3mm printed on it.

We getting closer?  Business cards are all over the map and generally thicker than that.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well that tears it. I just finished dinner and am heading back to the shop. For those keeping score ,03mm is .0078" and I was at .015" so now I need to know.....tonight.

[Hilltop366]

.3 not .03

[Hilltop366]

rounds up to 12 thou

[DHansen]

3mm is almost .012"

[DHansen]

Sorry Hilltop, you are correct.  I was posting at the same time.  You won the race.

[DHansen]

Old2stroke, I understand, I was not intending to be negative as all inputs are helpful in the discussion.  I agree with you that poor manufacturing of the coil can affect the ignition timing based on the location of the core verses mounting holes.   As that will affect when the primary circuit collapses and induces the voltage into the secondary windings. It is harder to do diagnosis over the internet, let alone have the type words express our complete meaning and intent.  My apologies. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, my math was wrong, it's ,3 which is as you both said .0118 which can be called .011-.012. I put in a .009 shim, thinking closer might be better. 
It's not.
Tried both saws because I thought we found it. The clone still has no spark, although at one pint I thought I saw a single spark. The OEM saw has a nice spark, but it still won't start.

 I did learn that when you are pulling it over on the bench with your right hand and holding the plug against the cylinder with your left, you must be very careful not to let any of your fingers get near the flywheel fins. If you lose focus, a finger might slip in and even though you are just hand pulling your finger nail can catch a fin and split right up the middle, causing pain and blood stains. Looks like it's going to take a while for that split to grow out of my nail. 
 I need more beer. Tomorrow is another day.

[DHansen]

Bring some beer to Spike and just mention you happen to have brought two 372XP saws with you.  

[thecfarm]

Don't forget the easter eggs. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Well it's not quite that way, but you are probably pretty close.
 Actually I like to learn this stuff for myself and force myself to figure it out, (with all the help I am getting here of course) that's how I learn. But this pretty mush has me at my wits end. However, I have to think really hard about bringing a clone into Bob's saw shed. However, I figure if I bring an equal weight in high quality beer I may get away with it, but I fully know I am pushing the relationship.
 Truthfully I'd like to focus on that project saw. I put it together, it fired right up, I made some test cuts with a junk bar and Oregon chain, and was very happy. I put it aside until the Husky lightweight bar showed up with the new Husky square grind skip tooth chain and I am dying to test it out. I have a 28" stem waiting to get dropped in my swamp. 

[Spike60]

.3mm, not .03

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, I think we cleared that up, above. So I've tried .014, then .008, today I will try .012 but I very much doubt it will make any difference.
 This is a limiter carb. When I do the initial sets, I go full closed (CW) and back off about a 1/4 turn. which is about half the travel. Does that sound right?

[DHansen]

Have you tried pouring a small amount of mixed fuel into the carburetor of the OEM 372XP to see if it will pop off?

[DHansen]

Yeah, I think we cleared that up, above. So I've tried .104, then .008, today I will try .012 but I very much doubt it will make any difference.
 This is a limiter carb. When I do the initial sets, I go full closed (CW) and back off about a 1/4 turn. which is about half the travel. Does that sound right?

What 372 are you talking about in this post.

[Spike60]

Clone saw will welcome Tom, I have 2 372 clones. 1 is the kit version that Walt gave me. Was interesting as I got to examine every part as I was building the saw.

2nd is a blue one because I thought I should have a 372 that matches my truck. 

The reasons we come up with for acquiring yet another saw are pretty much unlimited, huh?

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, I think we cleared that up, above. So I've tried .104, then .008, today I will try .012 but I very much doubt it will make any difference.
 This is a limiter carb. When I do the initial sets, I go full closed (CW) and back off about a 1/4 turn. which is about half the travel. Does that sound right?

What 372 are you talking about in this post.

Yeah, sorry, I was talking about the project saw (OEM) which is my first goal.

 I never look for a reason to add a saw, but every once in a while one finds me.

[DHansen]

I guess I will need to find a red saw.

[Old Greenhorn]

Have you tried pouring a small amount of mixed fuel into the carburetor of the OEM 372XP to see if it will pop off?

You know, I hadn't thought of that because I already had the saw running and because I can see fuel in the cylinder when I am pulling it over with the plug out. (OEM SAW) On the Clone, I haven't tried either because I still can't get a spark. Need the sparky thing first.

[joe_indi]

If you have a simple digital tach you could hold it against the high tension wire (spark plug lead ) and pull the starter fast enough, on the table with the spark plug removed. If the coil is producing a current strong enough to spark you should see some rpm reading on the tach. If it does show a reading try using a cheap spark plug. They are un-supressed while as the NGK, Champion etc are supressed and need a very healthy coil. Additionally you could try a shorter gap on the plug. Also another plug

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I don't have a tach, but I guess that day is coming because my ears are going. I have tried several plug types to see if I can pattern what's going on, but no joy there. Plugs are usually the first thing to go, so I never trust them.

[doc henderson]

can double check with a squirt of ether and make sure it is not a fuel problem.