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Started by Stephen1, April 18, 2025, 08:14:10 AM

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Stephen1

Good morning, I took Jims TF course a few years ago. I am finally getting to a point in my life that I can build something. I have been sawing a lot of hardwood logs into lumber lately to kiln dry and then sell in my shop. I have been setting aside the pith 6x6 and the sawing them down to 3x3 to make bunks. 
My question is , 
Can I use the pith of these hardwoods for a timber frame? Should I save them as 6x6 so I can build with them.  Or are they good for braces and such? 
I also saw a lot of EWP and realize the pine is way easier to cut notches in. I also have easy access to pine.
My plans are to build a TF 24x24 Garage with a lean to on the side. also a Boat house to store my boat in on the waterfront.  
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

doc henderson

great plans!  I know they try to center the pith in beams and suppose it depends on how it cracks, but I do not know.  Sounds like you are building a great place.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Jim_Rogers

In a 6"x6" frame we use 3x5 braces. But we or should I say "I" cut my brace stock 1/8" over the thickness. So that's 3 1/8" x 5" braces. That is so when you get around to cutting your brace tenons that you still have 3" of stock to make the tenon 1 1/2" and it is set off the 1 1/2" distance. If the brace stock has set a while it will shrink and then you won't have enough wood to make the 1 1/2" thick tenon. And that means the tenon will be slopping in the mortise. And strength goes to stiffness. A sloppy tenon in a mortise is not strong because it is not stiff.
A 24'x24' frame most likely will need 4x6 braces (4 1/8"x6) to go along with the 8x8 posts and larger tie beams.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Stephen1

Thanks Jim. So my 6x6 is not quite big enough to for brace stock. I should leave them 6.25x6.25 ?  I will use pine for the posts as it is easier to work with and I will need 8x8. It will be next winter that I will start this and hope to get you to design my garage for me. 
I am working thought my hardwood log pile , over 50 logs from 8' to 12'. Ash, oak, maple and walnut. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Jim_Rogers

I'd be happy to help you with your design.
I recently got my passport, so I can travel to Canada, if you wish to host a class at your site.
Let me know when you want to start talking about design or class timetable.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Stephen1

I like that idea Jim. I could host a class here for sure. I'll see how these other projects pan out. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Brad_bb

For a 24x24 as jim said you'll need larger timbers 8x8, 8x10, and maybe bigger depending on the design, whether there's a second floor and how you would do the floor joists.  You want pith centered on both ends in hardwood timbers.  You have flexibility with Brace stock, though you have to keep in mind If both sides will be seen or only one.  I do like some 6x6 braces in a frame in certain locations, especially bracing a beam doing a larger span.  

I only have access to hardwood locally.  It's rally not a big deal to cut hardwood or softwood.  Power tools will do the majority of material removal,  Just some parring with your chisels.

I like 4x8 brace stock. I cut it 1/2 inch oversize and have let them air dry for a few years, then plane it to size after most of the shrinkage is done. I like 4x8 in a larger frame, and if you like the look you can cut a gentle curve in the underside of the brace.  I tend away from that myself.  You can have larger braces where you want the look, like a 4x12 or such large live edge.  In certain places it can look cool.  You do need to account for shrinkage in your timbers as Jim said.  If you're cutting green, then cut them a little oversize.  If you have time to let them air dry, you could cut them oversize even more to allow you to not only account for shrinkage, but also any bow, crown, or twisting, you can machine them back to square and to dimension.

Luckily up North in Canada you don't have worries about Carpenter bees.  They are horrible on exposed softwood in the lower half of the US, East of the Mississippi river or so.  Down here I learned not to leave any softwood exposed whether it's timber or trim or facia.

Good luck and post pics.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Stephen1

The plan is to use pine, now that I know I need 8x8s. I am sawing the hardwoods for lumber for sale after I KD. I just hate to burn the piths and thought maybe I could repurpose the pith. I am going to saw the piths at 6.25" and set them aside for now. I have 12 12' logs left, ash and maple. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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