Lubemizer leaking

[KWood255]

Good morning folks. On the new LT70 my blade lube seems to be flowing constant. I have turned it down to only level above off, which continues to drip while the mill is off. I did not do this before, and should only supply lube while the head is in forward motion as I understand. It appears that the switch to activate the lubemizer may be stuck on. Anyone else have issues similar?

[Magicman]

3 psi check valve.

[KWood255]

3 psi check valve.

Thank you Sir. I should have researched a bit before posting this, as I just found a thread on it from a few years back. I will call WM to order...on warranty. 

[YellowHammer]

The two check valves are a routine failure item for me.  They can be disassembled pretty easy and the Orings replaced, sometimes that fixes them, sometimes not.  I always have a few spares.    

I also have installed a 1/4" brass valve in the tubing right where it comes down to the idle roller guide to prevent the mostly present drip, drip, drip when I don't feel like changing the check valves.

I have also replaced two of the Lubemizer pumps on my LT70 but never had to replace any on my LT40.

[Magicman]

I installed an "easy to get to" 3psi check valve between my engine and Debarker. 

[Old Greenhorn]

X2 for MM's modification. Those silly little valves are a real PITA to access and change, especially in freezing temps when they split.

[Magicman]

Those silly little valves are a real PITA to access and change,

I also relocated the 6psi check valve to a more convenient location.  I also replaced that thick reinforced hose with a more manageable clear tubing.  It doesn't even need clamps because this is a low pressure system.  

As designed, the pressure is recirculated through the 6psi check valve and back through the pump which is actually a smart design.  If the 6psi check valve fails, you can temporarily plug that hose and the pump's internal pressure switch will cycle the pump motor.

[GAB]

I have also replaced two of the Lubemizer pumps on my LT70 but never had to replace any on my LT40.

I am also on my third lubemizer pump.  I think the first one froze to death, and the second one was installed by a WM Tech and lasted somewheres between 3 and 10 seconds.  The Tech then removed it and took it back with him.  Changing the pump, although not all that complicated, is a royal pain and you need to be in the right mood before attacking that task.
GAB

[Old Greenhorn]

GAB

Agreed and trying to work on it during a grey, damp, snotty, northeastern winter day with water dripping down inside your sleeves is not conducive to finding that 'right mood'.

[YellowHammer]

The pump has bayonet fittings where the hose doesn't need to be pulled from the hose fitting, or even really disconnected or unbuttoned in a conventional sense.  Remove the bayonets holding the fitting and they simply slide out of the pump.  Also, two of the four rubber grommets that mount the pump to the back plate are slide in.  So the way I change the pump is to pull off the top cover to get access to the bayonet fittings and slide them out, remove two of the four mounting bolts, loosen the other two, and the pump pops out.  Same thing in reverse to install, be careful when inserting the fittings back into the new pump because they seal with an oring.  Just a few minutes to do a swap.  

By the way, the pump is a very common one, used in both the marine and RV industry, and readily availably from lots of places including Amazon Prime, and maybe available in town at your marine or RV dealership.        

[KWood255]

I am only seeing one check valve in my system, within inches of the pump. Looks simple to replace, although I haven't done it yet.

[Magicman]

Look in the top right corner of your picture above.  I think that I can see it.  It is not red and is an inline unit with a barb on each end.  Compare it with the one shown in my last picture above.  That is the 6 PSI check valve that T's the pump's output to the inlet.

[YellowHammer]

Yes, that is it, upper right.  

[KWood255]

Ah, thanks guys. If I understand correctly, the 3psi (red) is what's prone to causing the constant leak? Or both?

[Magicman]

Yes, a not fully closing red 3psi check valve will allow the nozzle to drip and actually empty you lube jug over a period of time.

The 6psi check valve T's between the output and inlet of the pump.  It allows the pump to run continuously rather than cycle on and off through the pump's internal pressure switch.

Both are necessary for proper operation of the LubeMizer.  As Robert mentioned above, both of them can be disassembled, cleaned, and reused but it is a bit tricky. 

[terrifictimbersllc]

A tiny bit of crud stuck in the 3psi check valve is probably what keeps it from closing. Disconnect the 1/4 poly tube from it and watch the pulsing when the lubemizer is running, maybe turn it up a bit till it works right then put the tube back on. 

Or take the cartridge out and rinse it, you can press one side to open it under a faucet.

[fluidpowerpro]

Although I'm not familiar with the lubmizer set up, if I was to design a system with a 3 psi check valve whos intended function is to prevent dripping/siphoning, I would make sure and mount it so gravity is helping it to close. 

[YellowHammer]

$10 for the ice maker valve.  This will stop the big puddle of fluid from being under the sawmill the next morning, or when the check valve starts leaking again.  When I release the band tension at the end of the day, I close the valve, also.