Help me decide on the right chainsaw - looking at Stihl MS261 C-M or...?

[firefighter ontheside]

I highly recommend the 261 like most here.  It's a great saw.  Several years ago my saws were an 025 with 18" bar and a 291 with 20" bar.  The 025 was a great saw and I think you'd be served well by a 251. I sold the 291 and bought a 362 with 20" bar.  Much better power for same weight.  Then I bought a 261 with 18" bar.  Same weight as 025 with considerably more HP.  It's a great saw with great power to weight ratio.  I can't say it's the perfect saw for you, but it's a much better fit than the 291.

As far as carrying the saw, I like to just carry it over my shoulder.  It's comfortable to me.  A piece of firehose over the bar is a good protector for your neck.

[KWood255]

My 261 was set up with a 16" bar. It balanced nicely. I'm used to an 18" bar on that size of saw, but I wanted to try one with a shorter bar. The 16" felt "right" in that saw.

Likewise Barbender. I have quite a few saws on hand...MS170, MS261CM, MS400CM, MA290 and a couple Husqvarnas. The 261CM with a 16" bar is my go to nearly everyday. Especially after opening up the exhaust and recalibrating the M-Tronic. A huge performance upgrade, although life expectancy may suffer a little. I couldn't guess the hours on that saw...lots. I will replace it with a new one when the time comes, without hesitation. 

[Jim Chance]

Buford, I do a lot of trail work and understand where you are coming from with the power/weight concerns. I use Stihl because it is the only brand well supported around here. On the smaller end Stihl's two saws with the best power to weight ratio is the Ms201C and the MS261C. The 201C is like the 201TC top handle saw used by climbers but it has a rear handle. It is hard to find but my favorite trail saw. I run mine with a 16" lightweight bar. I suggest you avoid the top handle saw as it is much more difficult to control kickback. I also have a MS261C and run it with. 20" bar.  It is a lot more saw than the 201 both when you carry it and when you cut with it. I use it when I will be doing a lot of cutting and little walking or when I know I will be cutting over 24" or so. Both are expensive high end saws. As for carrying the saw, a lot of people here use the strap that comes with a weedeater. Others replace the plastic scabbard with a piece of fire hose and carry on the shoulder. They do make special packs for carrying saws but they are not popular.

[Jim Chance]

Here is  a link to the 201 rear handle. Looks like they added easy start. https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms201cem/

[arojay]

I had a 261cm (the auto compensating carb version). It is a great saw, I never got a hiccup out of it in about 5 years of use.

However, with your focus on light weight I think Stihl also makes a 241 that is a pro saw. Might be worth a look if you can find one.

I've tried the PNW bar over the shoulder method a couple of times. I kept telling myself "other people are doing it" but I couldn't help having alarm bells going off telling me that it wasn't a good idea to have a sharpened chain right next to my neck. I don't carry bandsaw blades looped over my shoulder, either😁

I know what you mean about the teeth near your neck.  In winter I typically have a collared shirt that gives some protection, but not in summer.  What I did was take a plastic bar guard and cut the front end off so that I have a plastic sleeve between the chain and my neck.  With the entire guard on I found it was sloppy.  In my opinion, carrying a saw over the shoulder only works for longer bars, at least 24 ".  I do my trail work and slashing with a 28" and it is less tiring to pack a saw over the shoulder.  Now I just have to remember where I left the sleeve.  I don't think it would be much use with a small saw.

I have used a pad on my suspenders for many years, but mostly for throwing the lead choker over my shoulder when I'm hauling out mainline.