Saw not cutting straight

[fluidpowerpro]

Ive got a Jonsred CS2250S that recently started cutting crooked.
I sharpen my own chains so I figured maybe I did something wrong there, so I put a new chain on it.

No change.

It was due for a new bar so I figured might as well get a new one.

No change.

Last fall I put a new drive sprocket on it so maybe that has something to do with it but as far as I can tell the chain is riding in it correctly.

The bar gets really hot.
Oil usage is the same as it has always been. About 1/2 tank of oil per tank of gas.

It uses .058" chain and I am using the correct .58" bar.

I'm stumped.
Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom

[Old Greenhorn]

Well you have surely read enough of these threads to have anticipated and addressed all the standard contributing factors.

 I have to say that I too, am stumped. Changing out the chain AND the bar cut right to the heart of the matter and should have solved it. If it is still cutting just the same as before there has to be something still common to the problem. Could it have anything to do with the wood your are cutting? Is it possible there is something going on with the bar mount? Cracked casting or something. That's pretty wild and out there, but frankly given all your troubleshooting experience I am coming up short on any ideas.

 When you say 'cutting crooked' do you mean curved crooked or straight crooked, like at an angle?

 The ONLY real thing that comes to mind is to remove the bar and chain, install the chain on the bar, and while holding the bar by the tip, roll the chain around and look for hitches, sloppy fits, and hang-ups, and yeah, I realize it's new pair, but I am grasping at straws here. Also, go back and take a close look at the original B&C. Are both setups cutting at the same degree of 'crooked'? Again, I am just grasping here and trying to help you think it through.

[leeroyjd]

While looking for isolation mounts for Husqvarna 288 project saw I stumbled on something about worn mounts can cause a crooked cut.
I did not think much of it at the time, but as Old Greenhorn said-grasping at straws.

[leeroyjd]

Just remembered I had a bar plate that was bent just enough to catch the left side of the chain. That drove me nuts. I suppose checking that and the chain catcher if it's aluminum.

[Old Greenhorn]

This isn't Tom's first rodeo and he has already gone right to the heart of it. He knows what he is looking at and seeing. So I am making that jump early and thinking it's something weird like junk packed under the bar shim plate.
 Of course it could be a fundamental thing such as any of us could miss working on a familiar saw, but I have faith in Tom's experience.

 The devil will likely be found somewhere in the details. Chain catch? Never thought of that one. Maybe rubbing on one side of the chain and dulling it? Sounds dumb, but I have seen dumber.

[doc henderson]

This is my first rodeo, but if the bar is getting unusually hot, check the free travel of the chain in the bar by hand to see if when you last threw a chain, it may have gouged a drive tang.  if the sides are scored it can make a wide spot and drag funny in the bar.  

[DHansen]

I would try to determine why the bar is getting too hot.   Did both bars get too hot?  Did the curved cutting and hot bar issue start at the same time?  What bar length.?

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah I kind of skipped over that because we all overtighten a chai from time to time. I tend to run the chains on my long bars tighter. But on that saw, pulling it over by hand should be pretty free and easy.
 If it weren't for the new bar, I would say to get a pick and make sure the bar groove is clean all the way down. I cleaned one of my bars the other day that I thought was clear, but with a pick I pulled out a WHOLE bunch of junk.

 Can you give us a little more to work with Tom?

[fluidpowerpro]

Thanks to everyone for your willingness to help.
It's an 18" bar.
The old bar also started to run hot before I  replaced it.
When looking closer at the saw yesterday I  did notice something.
There are 2 pins the bar slides on where it mounts to the saw. I noticed that the rear pin, closest to the clutch has some play in it.
This play will allow the bar to tip "up" more than normal.
Although alarming I question if this is the issue because I  dont think that would cause it to cut crooked as the bar as clamped tight to the saw when cutting.
 Also, when I  tension the chain on any of my saws, I  always do it while  forcing the tip of the bar up to remove any play.
Maybe because the bar now tips up more than normal, because of the loose pin, I need to run the chain "looser" than normal?

[Al_Smith]

A combination of a too tight   chain and for some reason not getting enough oil will cause problems .It's one thing for the oil pump to move plenty of oil but does it get on the bar ? Another one of those situations that to trouble shoot a saw over the internet is only a guess .

[fluidpowerpro]

Here are some pictures.
The pin with the yellow paint on it is to one that is loose.

[fluidpowerpro]

Still putzin around with this today. 
Checked both plates to make sure no crud behind them. All was good.

Mounts look good.

Turns out I lied about the oil usage.

To see if I have lube I often will hold the tip of the saw near a log and rev it to see if I get any oil coming off of the tip. 
I did that and the oil pattern coming off looked intermittent. Sometimes good, sometimes none.
Drained the oil tank and visually inspected. Looked clean, no crud on oil inlet tube.
Flushed the tank with mineral spirits. 
Ran the saw for a brief moment with mineral spirits (with bar removed) Yep, liquid coming out.
Dumped the spirits and put oil back in. Ran the saw and yep, oil coming out.
Installed the bar and did the visual test again, no oil coming off the tip.

Yes, the oil channel in the bar is clean.

I think I might have a weak oil pump.

Will start looking for a replacement on line shortly.

[Old Greenhorn]

Before you go looking for a pump (seems like they run about 30 bucks or so), maybe just pull your apart and see what the inside looks like. Even though you flushed it, it could still be gummed up or perhaps the worm gear is shot. Not sure how similar it is to the 2050, just guessing it's not far off.

[doc henderson]

they can get packed with sawdust and oil on the other end from the tank.  it often breaks the plastic/nylon pump part.

[fluidpowerpro]

I ordered a pump already. Pump and drive worm gear for $9 so not a big deal if I'm wrong. 
Checked the existing worm gear part and pump and the gears seem to be meshing OK. Blew air through everything to clean. 
I'm now kind of doubting the pump is bad but for $9 its worth a shot.
I should have it by next Tuesday so I'll be able to try it then. 
If its not that I'm kind of out of things to try...

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah typing my own post and reading Doc's has me rethinking the 2050 I am working on now. When I had it torn down I never thought to open up the oil pump. Now it's bothering me because the saw seems to be weeping oil but not from where it feeds that bar slot. Rain out tomorrow, so I will get into that and see what it looks like. It's kind of a weird setup on this saw.

 Tom, does that have a hose or a dip tube thing? It could be an issue inside the tank where the oil gets pulled up. One the other hand, even though it all looks good, it may just be worn and not passing as much oil as designed. That would be hard to tell just by eye.

[doc henderson]

If the pump is not the issue, can throw the old one in a baggie for backup if one ever grenades on you.  I had that happen once.

[customsawyer]

You mentioned that the channel on the bar is clean. Check the little hole on the side of the bar. I've had those come from the factory with paint over the hole.

[Old Greenhorn]

That's a good point, but I had never seen that. The bar that FPP bought is not painted, but even with lacquer or whatever they put on it, it could still be plugged over. I am pretty picky about bars and when I get a new one I always check it over for even rails, clear groove and oil ports, tip burrs, etc before I hang it the first time.

 Tom, once you get this figured out, let us know how you like that bar. I almost bought one for my 2050 a few days ago, but opted to go traditional and got an OEM Jonsered just because.

[fluidpowerpro]

I have confirmed that the oil passages in the bar are clean.
The pick up in the tank is a white plastic tube, not a hose.
After I  bought the bar I  noticed that the original oem bar was also marked Tsmura so I  assume they mfg for Jonsred and silk screen it with.their logo.

[leeroyjd]

Were both bar& chain combinations cutting to the left? Zooming in on your chain looks to me like the right hand teeth are knicked and a bit more brown than the left side. Lack of oil isn't good but will not cause crooked cutting.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well just because of this conversation I went out and pulled the pump apart on the 2050 and found everything OK although dirty. I have good flow from the tank and no parts are frozen or worn out. I cleaned it all up and putting it back together. I am still waiting for a new clutch drum and rim sprocket for that saw.

 I hope you are on the right track with the pump, but keep looking. You never know what you might find.