Question for welders and Builders

[Radar67]

DanG, Some of us have to do that. :D This was actually a dusk, the flash made it look darker. I did find that welding at night was a lot easier (I could see the material better). Checked it with a string today and had no bow or sag, the 2x6 is straight as an arrow. (As you can see, it is only supported on the ends, should hold up well with axles under it.)

[Sprucegum]

Nice pics.
It looks like you know what you are doing in the welding department

Have you determined how far back to place your axles?
I have found that, if the load is fairly balanced, 6" back of center gives you a nice tongue weight no matter what size trailer you are building.

Do as ya mighta ;D

[Radar67]

Sprucegum,
     I honestly have to say that this is the first time I have welded. I took my time and paid attention to what I was doing. As for the design and layout, I have many years of experience in the construction field. I have been studying on axle placement, based on the extra material up front for the tongue, I plan to measure 12 inches back from the center of the frame and start playing with the balance and tongue weight from there. Probably use a 4 inch pipe for my balance point and a simple bathroom scale to judge tongue weight. I'm shooting for about 100 - 150 pounds on the tongue. Thanks for the advice.

Stew

[Dan_Shade]

tongue weight should be 10% of the trailer weight

make sure to account for the sawhead on there too.

[Radar67]

Thanks Dan,
     The material weight is 656 pounds, the saw and rails 550, I figured 1300 pounds for complete set up. My target should meet the 10%.

Stew

[Dan_Shade]

did you find angle to match up to your track?  i dont think 1/4x2 will match up to it quite right, but it's easy enough to completely redo it with 1/4x2

[Radar67]

I double checked all the measurements on my factory rails and standard 2x2x1/4 angle matched it perfectly. I remembered you said it was metric, so I checked everything out before I got my material. My rails are a year old, I wonder if that has anything to do with it? Maybe they (Hudson) changed their suppliers at some point.

[Dan_Shade]

that's quite possible.  mine was off just a bit so I redid the whole top.

that's a quite nice looking track you are making there.  I really wish I had used heavier tubing for mine, oh well, if it gets trashed, i can make another one, I suppose.

[Radar67]

I have a question about axles. The axle stubs I plan to use measure 1 3/4 inch square where they fit into the axle tube, my problem is I can't find any square tube to fit unless I go with 2x2x1/8. I don't trust that size for a 3500 pound axle. I'm thinking use the thin tube and insert it into a piece of 2 1/2x2 1/2x1/4 tube. Does this sound like it would work? Does anyone have any alternative suggestions?

The axle will be about 36 inches to the start of the spindle shafts. No one around here will make a custom axle. Thanks.

Stew

[woodbowl]

I have a question about axles. The axle stubs I plan to use measure 1 3/4 inch square where they fit into the axle tube, my problem is I can't find any square tube to fit unless I go with 2x2x1/8. I don't trust that size for a 3500 pound axle. I'm thinking use the thin tube and insert it into a piece of 2 1/2x2 1/2x1/4 tube. Does this sound like it would work? Does anyone have any alternative suggestions?

Stew, the term used is "mechanical tubing"  I have a set of cad digger plans and they use the round stock. I understand that it is also availible in the square as well. The same type situation is when we slide a 2x2 in a trailer hitch. That is an off standard wall thickness.

[Radar67]

Stew, the term used is "mechanical tubing" I have a set of cad digger plans and they use the round stock. I understand that it is also availible in the square as well. The same type situation is when we slide a 2x2 in a trailer hitch. That is an off standard wall thickness.

WoodBowl,
     Any recommendations on where one would find "mechanical Tubing"? I can get square or round axle stubs, but both measure 1 3/4.

Stew

[woodbowl]

I was told that it is availible from a good steel supplier. It may have to be special ordered, not sure. Have you searched the net?

[Radar67]

I was told that it is availible from a good steel supplier. It may have to be special ordered, not sure. Have you searched the net?

I have searched the net. I'm dealing with a metal foundry and machine shop. Spoke with them today, they don't carry anything that works. The net was not helpful either.

I'm still thinking cut a sleeve out of the smaller tubing, weld it to the stub axle, then use the larger tubing for the overall length.

Stew

[floyd]

trlr will not only flex going down the road but frame is going to have lots of stress from  sawing as well.

[woodbowl]

If the new metal is bowed, it should sag when on it's own wheels. Jacking up both ends when leveling, insures a level bed, according to Cooks saw.

[Sprucegum]

Your axle stubs do not really need to fit inside your axle.
Youcan weld a butt plate to your stub and weld the butt plate to your axle, that's how they make drop axles.

You can also drill a hole in your butt plate to snug fit your axle stub to help keep it straight.
3/4 inch plate should do the trick for 3500 pounds.

[Radar67]

Sprucegum,
     You are basically saying that I could mount the stub axle to the outside of my square tube?
__________
|                 |
|_________|_
          |_____|xxxx

Something like this?

Thanks,

Stew

[leweee]

Remember to have a few degrees of" toe in" on those stub axles when you weld them on....makes the trailer tow straight....too much will cause excessive tire wear...no "toe in"or negative " toe in"and the trailer will wag like a dogs tail.  Don't ask me how I found this out.  ;D

[Radar67]

Leweee, thanks for that information, I had not considered the toe in before now.

Stew

[Sprucegum]

I have seen it done that way, and it works but it looks kind of "unprofessional". What I had in mind is:
             p
     axle[L ] stub
             a
             t
             e
with lots of weld around the "L" the plate can be larger than the axle by enough diameter to allow room for a fillet weld.

OR
you can insert the stub through a hole in the plate and trim the plate to fit inside your large-diameter axle, leaving enough plate sticking out to make a fillet weld onto the end of the axletube

Have I confused the issue enough yet? :P
       

[Radar67]

I think I got it now, lay the plate flat on the bench, stand the stub axle up on the plate and weld the fire out of her, the weld the plate to the axle tube. Or, punch a hole in the plate, slide stub through, and weld plate on axle tube end.  ;D

[Sprucegum]

 8) 8)Yep 8) 8)

[woodbowl]

...no "toe in"or negative " toe in"and the trailer will wag like a dogs tail.  Don't ask me how I found this out. 

leweee,  how did you find that out?  ;D ;D   Radar, where did you get your stub axels? Are they new or from something else?

[Radar67]

Woodbowl,
     I'm ordering the stub axles from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company. They have two ratings, 2000 or 3500 pounds. Either square or round.

[woodbowl]

I guess it is a lot cheaper to weld your own rather than buy already assembled axels. I should drag out my catalog but I'll ask anyway. Are they 5 lug or like a moble home hub? How much are they?