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F250 SD Brake Job

Started by submarinesailor, December 05, 2005, 06:48:00 PM

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submarinesailor

Time for a front brake job on the diesel motor – F250 Super Duty.  Have many brake jobs on a1983 Ford Bronco and 1995 Toyota under my belt.  But, I was wondering if there was anything on the diesel motor that might surprise me when I get into it.  Any thing different with it being 4WD?

stumpy

I just did the brakes on my 2002 F250 SD diesel 4x4. Very easy. No surprises, just the parts cost.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

submarinesailor

How many miles did you have on them before they needed replacement?  Got about 84,000 on the factory shoes.

UNCLEBUCK

Let us know how ya did sub !  I have to do all 4 soon and ball joints on left side and it will be my first ball joint replacement . I found the dealership shop repair cd on ebay for 20 bucks and thinking I may get it. It got to 15 below zero last night and my truck quit today so I thought my first gel job so I tossed the fuel filter and put a new one in and also added diesel fuel treatment and it quit 5 minutes later. It ended up being the cam sensor like ck had trouble with earlier this year . Hope all goes well for you . I got 260,000 miles on mine and will try for 500,000 hopefully
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

ScottAR

The 4x4s are even easier than the 2wd but neither is hard. 
You'll need an 8" C clamp if you don't have one. 
After you get the tires off, C clamp the pistons in and remove the 7/16" bolts.

The outer caliper comes off an the pads slide out of the caliper mount.  Make sure the little slider pins work in and out.  The little spring clip dodads like to fall out but it's no big deal if they still work reuse em. (not broken)

If you want the rotors off, the caliper mount gets removed with either a 19mm or a 21mm socket. (I forget) The factory puts lock tight on these so an impact wrench helps. 

On the 4x4, the rotor just slides off... errr well, it's suppose to.  I had to bop mine with a brass hammer a few times as dust and rust built up on the hub.

2wds, take the dust cap off and undo the spindle nut and it comes off in ya lap.  The greasy bearings fall right on ya pants too...  ::)

The back is the same type as the front with the exception of the parking brake shoes inside the rotor.  They're a booger bear to get back on so if they look ok leave em be and adjust em up. 

little long winded but HTH.... 

Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

submarinesailor

Uncle Buck – One of the things a I like about the newer power stoke diesels, is they have a heater line from the radiator running back to the fuel conditioner that sit under the driver, inside the frame.  It's supposed to help with the gelling problem.

Scott – Thanks for the info.  Was hoping it was going to be as easy as the Toyota was.

jgoodhart

Watch those little sheet metal slide cover brake pad holder things they are easy to get on backward and they don't work backwards

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