Author Topic: Edger Blades (Read 6130 times)

Kevin_H. · « **on:** December 28, 2005, 04:26:52 PM »

Ok I am looking for some new edger blades but i am kinda striking out.

I need a 24 tooth 12" blade with a 2" arbor, The blade is solid not split.

I have tried most of the sponsors but no luck yet...

The thickest that we run is 1 1/2". Most of the time it is 1/2" to 1 1/8" so I'm am thinking about using a 12" table saw blade but I dont know how it will hold up.

Any suggestions

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2005, 04:51:51 PM »

Is this an inserted tooth blade? That sounds like an awful lot of teeth for such a small saw. I only have 22 teeth on an 18" saw.

Try a saw manufacturer like Hoe, Simonds or Payne.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #2 on:** December 28, 2005, 05:03:08 PM »

Ron, it's not inserted, picture a 12" table saw blade, but with a bigger kerf.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #3 on:** December 28, 2005, 05:12:47 PM »

Something like these?

http://www.pacific-hoe.com/products/circle/carbide.htm

D._Frederick · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2005, 05:36:12 PM »

Kevin,

Unless you are hand feeding your edger, I don't think that you will be happy with your blade selection.

I had blades made for my edger. They are 12 inch split blade with 12 carbite teeth. With more teeth your gullet size is reduced and is too small for power feed.

Another problem with table saw blades is the plate thickness is to thin, most table saw blades are about 0.090 inches for a 12 inch blade. I went to 0.120 inches thick too reduce flexing. You also need more hook angle for the teeth for edger use.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2005, 05:46:25 PM »

We have been running the 24 tooth, 12 inch blades for a couple of years, but would like to have an extra set, we have a timberking 802, when I called TK today they only had the 24 tooth in a split blade, the solid blade was an 18T and I believe they stated that was more for softwood vs the hardwood we run.

Thanks for the link ron that is more like what we have now.

lets get some more opinions on # of teeth and gullet size, I have no problem switching blade types if it will improve the performance.

keep it comming.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2005, 06:43:36 PM »

Kevin,

Here ya go:

Gary Snider @ Saw Service & Supply, Inc. 800-735-5604

We use to get 10" blades for the TimberKing 802.
Just let Gary know what bore size you need and he'll make it happen.

We still get boxes of 7 1/4" blades from him.

Gary was at the show in St. Charles, I should have pointed you to him $:-\$

ElectricAl

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2005, 06:52:27 PM »

Hey Al, I talked to gary at st. charles, when I called Saw Service and Supply today, they told me the 12" 24 tooth blade came with a 1" arbor and that they had no way of making it ( the arbor ) any bigger.

ElectricAl · « **Reply #8 on:** December 28, 2005, 07:22:22 PM »

Kevin,

Gary had a friend at a machine shop close by. I guess that deal fell through

Maybe a shop near you could bore the hole.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #9 on:** December 28, 2005, 07:33:07 PM »

I think I have it figured out, there is a saw service that has a delivery truck that runs close to here, The can make the 12/24 blade with the 2" arbor and put it on the company truck so that there is no shipping.

I would still like to know more about the # of teeth vs. saw speed.

the only time we have any real problem is when we run 1 1/2" hickory.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #10 on:** December 29, 2005, 05:53:42 AM »

Rule of thumb on hp needs would be 5 hp/inch of wood/saw. So, you should be running at least 15 hp for 6/4 hickory. Blades must be sharp and feed rate can't be too high.

If you run fewer teeth, then the hp requirements go down, at least with inserted tooth blades.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #11 on:** December 29, 2005, 10:28:12 AM »

Thanks ron, does it make a difference on what kind of wood ( soft vs. hard ) and the # of teeth, Thanks again for all the info and help.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #12 on:** December 29, 2005, 05:10:04 PM »

Not really. The biggest problem with sawing wood is the way the wood breaks when it is ripped. Softer woods will pull more of a chip while harder woods pull a smaller chip that is more like a fine dust.

The bigger chips will fill the gullets and discharge pretty easily. The finer dust will spill out of the gullets and down the sides, which will either push your saw or heat it up.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #13 on:** December 29, 2005, 05:59:22 PM »

Oky Doky, Well I ordered the saws today, I went ahead with the 12" 24 tooth as they had worked ok in the past.

On some of the older blades it seems like the teeth are not that much wider then the body of the blade, The new blades might have more " shoulder " to the teeth, well they will be here next week, now if I could just talk them into a FF sponsorship.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2005, 05:54:18 AM »

If your teeth are too narrow, you have to swage them in order to make them wider.

Kevin_H. · « **Reply #15 on:** December 30, 2005, 12:25:59 PM »

I think we are going to send in the old blades and get them retipped, $1.50 per tip dont seem too bad.

I dont know the first thing about swaging teeth

D._Frederick · « **Reply #16 on:** December 30, 2005, 01:38:49 PM »

You can't swage a carbite tipped tooth, they will shatter.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #17 on:** December 30, 2005, 08:50:34 PM »

Didn't know they were carbide.

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Author Topic: Edger Blades (Read 6130 times)

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