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Author Topic: Proper bucking of logs  (Read 6018 times)

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Offline Mesquite Man

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Proper bucking of logs
« on: October 22, 2002, 08:03:08 PM »
Hey guys,

It's me again!  I have read in a number of previous posts, on this site and others, the importance of proper bucking.  I searched the net for more information on proper bucking techniques and did not come up with anything.  Can anyone tell me where to turn?  Is it really all that important?  While I am waiting for my mill I thought I would try to learn a little more about logging!

Curtis
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Offline Kevin

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2002, 08:18:50 PM »

Offline Mesquite Man

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2002, 09:04:33 PM »
Thanks Kevin.  I had been to that site already and feel quite comfortable with the safety aspect of bucking as I have been cutting trees and firewood most of my life.

What I am referring to is in some posts people talk about a log being ruined because they were not bucked properly.  What exactly is the right way to buck a log?  I assume it has something to do with cutting it in the right place to provide the best log.  Could you give me some guidelines to determine what are the right places or things to look for?

Thanks

Curtis
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Offline Bro. Noble

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2002, 09:25:49 PM »
Curtis,

I don't remember any posts on bucking.  The posts on ruining logs that I've seen were on improper felling.  When bucking you can waste potential lumber by not cutting the logs at the right places.  Try to buck them so you get streight logs.  This usually means making your cut at the bend where there is a sharp bend.  It might mean throwing out a short section that jogs or has an obvious defect.  If the butt of the log is doty, you might want to cut off a short section.  If the wood is clear on the outside of the log you might want to keep it even with a bad center. Make sure to cut the log 6 or 8 inches longer than your lumber calls for.  If you are going to sell ties or anything to a broker, see what lengths they require. Lots of stuff to learn,  a lot of it's just common sense.  Be sure you have an extra saw to saw out the one you pinch while you're learning.  Maybe I'm the only one ever did that.  

Noble
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Offline Frank_Pender

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2002, 09:59:58 PM »
In my area the mills require 10" trim.  That means cutting the log 10" longer that the requested or purchased logs.  (example: 32' 10", 16' 10", 24' 10", etc.)  When I have people bring logs to me  for sawing, I request that they add at lest 8" or more for trim.  this allows for bucking defect, etc.  and possible checking if they do not get the logs to be in a reasonable time to have them Anchorsealed.  When I saw their logs I do not charge for the trim that is added to the log.  I, also, do not charge for the trim when I sell the lumber.  I never cut to a specific length dimension unless it is for a special one or two board type order.
Frank Pender

Offline Kevin

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2002, 05:35:17 AM »
This is poor felling that destroyed this tree...


Offline Bibbyman

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2002, 05:54:07 AM »
All we saw is hardwood, mostly red and white oak, plus some ERC.  Length +3-6" is fine with 4" being the target.  In grade hardwood,  odd lengths, 7,9,11' etc. are OK although we like even numbers plus trim.

Sometimes I could pull my hair out dealing with some loggers.  We'll tell them we are low on say 12' logs and have a big order for 12' stuff.  Two months later they'll get around to bringing a load of 12' stuff but half of it is unsuitable due to poor bucking.  You can see where they brought in a butt cut 12' and a top cut 12' - both so crooked you can't get a board out of them.  But if they'd cut an 8' off the butt, then a 12' and then another 8' (if they had enough tree), the tree would have produced one grade or stave log, one saw log and one blocking of firewood log.  As it is, he wasted a good tree. (Some times I can salvage them by cutting them in two and making horse trailer decking or re-cutting them to a 10' or 8'.)

Run your sawmill and you'll soon learn where to buck up trees.  

Improper bucking technique can ruin a lot of lumber too.  Guys will bust up or at least crack a lot of logs when the tree is under stress.  If you put a crack in the end of the log,  it'll show up more in the board and will be counted as a defect - thus loosing footage and or grade.
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Offline ARKANSAWYER

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2002, 06:30:07 AM »
  Case in point.  If you have a log and at 8' 4" you mark the first cut and at 10' 6" there is a knot then it is clear to20' before any more limbs you have a choice.  In hard woods a knot on the end of a board does not knock out your grade most of the time but a knot 2 feet into a board will kill your grade.  So if you would take the first log at 10' 4" then take the next log 8' or 10' you would not lose any grade.  The same with bends and such.
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Offline SteveS

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2002, 11:48:37 AM »
You might want to try this program. It might be a little cantankerous to get set up, but I think it is worth it.

http://forestry.mtu.edu/research/hwbuck/hwbuckinfo.htm

Offline woodmills1

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2002, 05:09:03 PM »
I also used to get upset with a previous log trucker/bucker upper.  ask for 16 and get 15, 12 and get 11 6.  then I went with him one day.  didn't use a tape, had a 4 foot stick he would flip end for end.  I found a new person to buy from.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline Jeff

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2002, 06:27:06 PM »
We had a guy that had a 100 inch stick. Occasionally somebody had to go to the woods and tell him he cut the end of his freaking stick off again.

Kevin, I think i might have sawed that log and its brother today. We get a different set of problems at out mill from the processed wood. Dull shears will shatter wood instead of shear, sawhead processors  that are not maintained will rip out the side of the log or splt it as its cut. Beleive me the guys thatrun processors do'nt get out and butt logs off. So, we just cut them off from bringing anything till they get thier act together. Chainsaw processed wood has the least "manufactured" defects.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Offline Tom

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2002, 07:05:52 PM »
Some of the simple things to pay attention to when bucking your own logs at the house.

1. try to cut the log square.  It makes it easier to measure, easier to handle, keeps the board stacks looking even and allows dragbacks on the mill to pull the board straight.

2. trim splinters left from felling.  They can cause you to lose a blade if you hit them wrong.

3. If the log is not cut square then make sure you measure from the short end of the cut.  Measuring a log at 8' 6" and then finding out that the felling notch was on the bottom, is embarrassing. What do you do with a 7 foot log?

4. Meticulously trim each limb stump as close to the log as possible.  It will help you to read the log later.

5. If you are into sawing for figure,  then pay attention to the crotches and burls that may offer spectacular wood.  Going by the book and only cutting straight clear logs may not be to your best advantage.  Only you will know which rules to break.

----------------------

I try to remember what an old fellow told me when I was racing motorcycles "back before the turn of the century" :D

"Even if the guy ahead of you seems to be in the fastest groove, you don't win races by following in a line."

Some folks say "think outside of the box" but it boils down to paying attention to what you want to accomplish.
extinct

Offline Mesquite Man

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2002, 07:30:27 PM »
Thanks for all the replies everyone!  Now if my mill will just hurry up and get here I can start milling!

Curtis
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Curtis O. Seebeck
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Offline Brian_Bailey

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2002, 08:49:15 PM »
Sometimes those crooked sections can be rewarding. Here's a 4' long maple crook a fella brought to me.  He wanted 2" thick coffee table fliches.



Putting it on the mill.



The Reward 8).


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Offline Bibbyman

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2002, 05:59:47 AM »
Tom,

Very good points you bring up (as usual) about the proper log "manicure".  Sure makes the sawyer's life easier and I'm all for that.  ;)

I've grown to accept having to grab the saw and trim spurs, limbs, knots, root swells, etc.  I guess I spent about an hour on every load the 806 Farmall guy brought in trimming and butting off stuff that should have been taken care of in the field.  

I wanted to take a picture of the last load he brought in on his rickety trailer.  Limbs were sticking out,  trees were brought in whole length and almost dragging the ground (sometimes he has brought in some that do drag the ground from being so long and crooked.).  But we had to unload the trailer so he could get back.  

BTY,  on this last load,  the axle assembly on his trailer broke down.  We lifted it with our loader and he wrapped a log chain around the fallen member and ran the chain across the trailer to the other side and boomed it down.
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Offline hosslog

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2002, 04:42:04 PM »
Here's what the mill I work for wants.
A No. 1 log has 1 small knot/defect with 3 clear sides.
  No.2 log can have 2 knots/defects with 2 clear sides
  No.3 log must have 1 clear side and be over 10 inches on the small end.
Every thing else goes into the pole pile for blocking.
If you have to leave a knot in the middle of a log try to leave at least 4 feet on either side ( a 9 foot log).
We get a sheet about once a month with log prices and specs on how to cut. Right now if soft maple isn't a No. 1 or better it goes into the pole pile.

Offline DougM

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2002, 08:36:51 PM »
Steve

I went to the site you had mentioned ???

http://forestry.mtu.edu/research/hwbuck/hwbuckinfo.htm

any suggestions how to download and get it to work? the directions make no sence to me

Doug

Online Ron Scott

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2002, 12:48:11 PM »
Taking a course or class in log scaling and grading will help one improve their bucking knowledge and skills.
~Ron

Offline woodmills1

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #18 on: October 26, 2002, 07:38:36 AM »
ya know all this bucking talk has got me thinkin if I am the only one who wonders about what happens to the logs that looked so straight on the stump and on the ground.  then when I put them on the mill I get to see all the twist and crook or bow.  do you think something happens to them during the night?? :D :D
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline Frank_Pender

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Re: Proper bucking of logs
« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2002, 07:43:37 AM »
Woodmils, it is probably the Log Twist Fairy that comes along during the dark hours and does her "twist dance" by hopping from log to log. ;D 8) 8) :D
Frank Pender


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