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Hi, I'm new and need reality check on sawmill selection

Started by Woody Woodwrecker, June 15, 2006, 05:43:06 PM

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Woody Woodwrecker

Hi everyone, I've lurked here a few times and finally registered. I'm in Florida at the momment but my retirement property is Northern Coastal California, near Trinidad. I have 68 acres with many old growth Sitka Spruce, some douglas fir, and a some cedars and redwoods. Some of the Sitka Spruce are very large )probably old growth) with many over five foot and some probably over six foot. I would like to use the trees taken down when I clear for a cabin location and also try to utilize some of the standing or even fallen dead trees. My dream is to be able to mill lumber and beams from the sitka spruce to build several cabins or even severalsmall houses.

woodbeard

Welcome  :)
Ya came to the right place for the sawmill part.
Not too sure 'bout the reality bit, though.  :D
What were you wanting to know? ???

Woody Woodwrecker

Well I hit the wrong key and messed up my first post by posting before I got my questions out!
Based on the size of the logs I have, and the desire to produce dimensional lumber and siding off the log, it seems that the swing blade type mills would be the best fit. I looked at the multi-blade circular mills but they look like overkill to me. But I am a little skeptical of the whimpy looking rails on the swing blade mills. I watched the videos from Lucas, Peterson, and Brand-X and was impressed, but I need a reality check on the practicality of cutting standing dead and/or live Sitka spruce into dimensional lumber I can use for a cabin or house. I've read on here that Sitka spruce is somewhat difficult to cut. Will I need to kiln dry the wood or just air dry it or use it green? I'm building under the "alternative owner builder" building ordinance, so I do not think I need to use graded lumber, but what if I wanted it graded? I talked to a forester and he said no problems with using the wood for my own personal use, so I think I am okay in that area. Will I have to run the wood thru a planer to use it as exposed roof decking, siding, or flooring? What about if I use the Peterson planer blade? I'm not worried about the kerf thickness because I have more wood than I can use (I think!). As far as having someone come in and cut the wood for me, I'm more "ownership" oriented and would rather do it myself. I noticed on Sawmill Exchange that there are a lot of the circular mills in Oregon for sale, so that might be an option even though they are larger. Portability is not much of an issue; I have 68 acres and just plan on setting the machine up permanently in one location. So, I'm looking for any guidance in mill selection or general critique of my plan (actually more of a dream!)

Woody Woodwrecker

Another question, hope it doesn't get too many laughs... what keeps the Peterson and Lucas mills from jumping back at the operator if thhey bind? I remember using radial type saws where the sawhead came flying back at me. So I am a little worried about that. I realize it must not be a big issue because I haven't read about it being a problem. But what keeps the head on the track, just the weight of the head?

woodbeard

Yep, just the weight of the sawhead and carriage. On my old Peterson WPF, I had a derailment or two, but only when it was cutting badly or the log was moving from released tension. You learn pretty quickly to keep blades sharp and alignment true, and to take incremental passes when you have uncooperative logs. I have feeling that your big sitka spruce will give you far less problems than smaller gnarly hardwoods.
As for the mill jumping back at you, it will usually bog down and stall when it binds that bad, but yes, you do have to be prepared to hold it back. Again, you learn to anticipate this situation and slow down the feed or shut off the motor.

beenthere

Woody
Quotebut I need a reality check on the practicality of cutting standing dead and/or live Sitka spruce into dimensional lumber

Now, cutting 'em standing, either dead or live, will be tricky. What part of that dream did you see this?   :)  I know I got that wrong.  :)

How much experience have you had sawing wood?  And how much have you taking down the 5' and 6' diam trees? 

Sounds like some visits to mills with the swing blades in action as well as some circular saw mills large enough to saw lumber from these size trees would be in order.

Any problem getting the permits to drop trees in that Trinidad area?  I was near there with a logging crew Aug. '61 dropping trees this size and the preparation for just making a bed for the tree to land in was very impressive, as was the falling of the tree. Equipment to handle the logs was humongous.  :o

Your adventure sounds like a great one. Hope we hear more about it.  Welcome to the forum. It's gonna be fun.  :)
(Sure never hear'd of anyone hittin' a wrong key before. How'd such a thing happen anyways? ::) ??? :) )
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Woody Woodwrecker

beenthere, I hit a return and tab to indent the next paragraph and it went to "post".  I have zero experience cutting trees anywhere near that large, just 18 to 24 incers here in Florida. And I've always cheated and used a backhoe to pull the tree where I wanted it to fall. I also have no experience with a sawmill, but I am handy with woodworking and metalworking tools. I'm an engineer but I also have a general contractors license,  and know my way arround equipment in general. Safety is always my number one priority, and I've already figured out I can get hurt doing something stupid! My plan was to start with some of the smaller tress that are down and then perhaps find a local pro to fell the large trees for me. I plan on moving my loader out there for moving logs and will probably be in the market for a backhoe when I actually relocate there for retirement (hopefully in 2 years). I guess my questions really revolve arround the real practicality of taking my sitka spruce logs and turning them into usable lumber. I met a young fellow building his house who cut some lumber using a Lucas and he said he would never do it again, her would just buy lumber. I think he said it was just too much work and too dirty. I guess I'm different, the thought of standing in a pile of sawdust producing good usable lumber really appeals to me. Just the thought of what kind of lumber might be hiding in those Sitka trees excites me, so I want to do it, even if I end up spending the same amount of money.

Woody Woodwrecker

woodbeard, when you get a derailment is it pretty violent? What is the chance of distorting the blade when you do? Do the saws have some sort of safety clutch or shear pin arrangement? Maybe I should read the owners manuals, do the manufacturers make those available before purchase? I lnow I'm firing off questions left and right, and thanks in advance for all the responses!

Tom

Where are you in florida, Woody Woodwrecker?   There's several of us members here.  You should plan on going to the Ag show in Moultrie, Georgia (just west of Valdosta) in October.  You will be able to see most of the mills and speak to factory Reps.


Sitka Spruce.   :-\ :P  Something special about that.

Isn't that the tree that was prized for Aircraft construction?

Fletch

Woody, I`ve been operating Ecosaws swing blades for 13 years and I`ve never had a derailment. And if the saw binds and comes back, and they will, it aint much of a problem as Ecosaws are operated from beside the head and outside the rails.
I mill a lot of logs up to 7ft and a swing blade for me is the only way to go.
Fletch the ecosaw guy

Woody Woodwrecker

Tom, I'm near Titusville. The AG show sounds like a good idea, but I may be in California then. I'll check on the dates. Yes Sitka Spruce is or was an important aircraft wood due to its high strength to weight ratio. It's not as strong as Douglas Fir, but is still very suitable for general construction, either as dimensional lumber or beams. It could also be used as siding, but needs painting. It is aslo used as tonewood in guitars, pianos, etc. Obviously the higher grades would be used for aircraft and tonewood. I'll probably end up using clear aircraft grade spruce for 2 x4s for the simple reason that it's illegal to sell wood in CA without a timber harvest plan. My understanding is the THP is very expensive and not cost effective for the small land holder. But I'll use it in my cabin, better than it rotting on the ground. But I've even heard some people go so far as to say that it's best for the forest to let it decay instead of removing it. So I'll compromise, I'll use the nice usable wood and let the other wood decay. I'll replant and have a sustainable forest for my kids and their kids.

Woody Woodwrecker

Fletch, thanks, I'm going to look into the Ecosaws. I wonder why most of the swingblades come from down under? Is it the large logs you have there?

brdmkr

Woody

Welcome to the forum.  I have a Lucas 618 and I wouldn't really worry too much about it getting away from you.  It does tend to stall if you push it too hard, but I have never felt like I was going to get run over.  I'd be happy to let you run the mill if you are ever in the SW GA area.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

tomboysawyer

Quote from: Woody Woodwrecker on June 15, 2006, 07:26:51 PM
I plan on moving my loader out there for moving logs and will probably be in the market for a backhoe when I actually relocate there for retirement (hopefully in 2 years). I guess my questions really revolve arround the real practicality of taking my sitka spruce logs and turning them into usable lumber.
My hubby would prefer to sell our trees (lots of cherry, sugar maple, and ash) and buy sticks at the local lumber yard. I'll hear nothing of it. I love standing in my sawdust. With my old Norwood I could saw topless (probably an option on a swingmill too), but my new modified Woodmizer makes bigger dust at a faster speed and I'm on the dust side so I need to keep the shirt on regardless of heat. Anyway, I love coming home covered in dust from whatever I've been milling - on my skin and clothes and in my hair. I'm sure you'll find a lot of good company here.

But I wanted to comment on equipment. While our mill is portable, we do move our logs to the mill on our 10 acres. We have a Dynahoe backhoe, a small loader (Ford CL40 - actually kinda big for a skid steer), and a small bulldozer (Case 450). I'm thinking that, in my experience, while hoes are good for pulling trees from inconvenient spots, a dozer or a skidder would be in order. As a contractor, I'm sure you have an appreciation for buying the right tool for the job. I would not recommend trying to do things with a tool that it really isn't made for and backhoes are not designed to be skidders. It would depend on your terrain, but I'd recommend the dozer as more diversified than a skidder for pulling your logs to the mill as well as other landscaping work.

With my small dozer, I can pull 50' of 24" ash up my mud-way (about 10 degree grade) without thinking about it.

With the value of your wood, the equipment should still be a bargain.

woodbeard

Here is a lil' birdy made of spruce.
It's also one of the best woods for acoustic guitar soundboards.

The times it came off the track, it was in the middle of coming to a screeching halt. It wasn't like it was taking off after me. Also, it can only really climb up the cut in the vertical position. In this case, you are pulling the saw, so if you lose control, it runs away from you. Still a bit unnerving, though.
Also, keep in mind, I got my Peterson used, fairly neglected, and not in the best alignment. I had to figure out a lot by trial and error. What I described was, obviously, one of the errors. :D
If you get a new mill, make sure you arrange to get the hands-on training from the manufacturer or their representatives.

Fla._Deadheader


Welcome to the Forum Woody Woodwrecker. There's GOTTA be a story behind that name.  ::) ::) ::)

  I happen to have Woodbeard's old, wore out Peterson. It is an 8" cut model. Without any experience on a Swing Blade, I am cutting a LOT of very hard wood in Costa Rica. I have gotten in binds, jumped the guide wheel over one notch, out of alignment, bumped the carriage out of alignment, on a severe tension log, and various other thngs. It's all in paying attention. ::) ::)

  This may sound like a lot of problems with Swing Blade mills, but, it's not. I have tried pretty hard to wreck a blade. Burned blue spots in it from scrubbing against the tension logs.The blade still cuts dead-on. Got in a big bind today, cutting very heavy Corteza lumber. Blade actually stalled pulling itself INTO the cut.

  Cancel that California trip and go to Moultrie. Best experience you will ever have.  ;) ;D ;D ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Fletch

Well Woody I recon the reason we developed swing blades is, firstly, our timbers tend to be preety dang {just had to use that word} hard. To try and put that in perspective, we get a fair bit of American white oak from parks and gardens and it would rate 6-7 on a scale of 10. Narrow band band saws just wont cope. Secondly, large logs, I rearely mill anything under 18-20 inch.
Add the hardness to the width and band saws just can`t cope.
Necissity is the mother of invention. So we found another way. :D
Fletch the ecosaw guy

Faron

" Too much work, and too dirty" 

I think you are on the right track, disregarding the advice of someone who thinks in those terms.  ;)

If I were looking at milling logs of the size you are describing, I would be thinking swing blade as well.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner.  Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote. - Ben Franklin

Qweaver

Hey woody,
I own a small band mill and I was on the verge of buying a swinger eariler this spring, mainly so that I could saw some of the bigger timbers on my property.  I backed off of that idea mainly due to the limited size of boards that can be cut with a swinger.  The new D&L double cut may solve that problem but it's new and I was not willing to tie up the money when I had a saw that was fulfilling all of my needs for building my cabin.  I need lots of 10 to 12" boards and beams for my project and most swingers just can't do that easily. 
Having both a band mill and a swinger is the answer, but........
Good luck in your search.

Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

jpgreen

Welcome to the forum Woody..  8)

I'm in Trinity County next to yours, and get up to Trinidad a couple times a year.

Swingblade mills are the ticket for your needs.  The are safe solid machines.  The Bailey's have a Lucas down south in Laytonville on hwy 101 your can try.

If you need a recomendation for a good logger to fall those trees, I can suggest someone.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

UNCLEBUCK

Welcome woody !  A company in california ,the largest aircraft spruce supplier in the world would offer you huge bucks for your sitka spruce www.aircraftspruce.com  ,  douglas fir is actually stronger and a better grade of wood for aircraft but the public is stuck on sitka , a average airplane made from douglas fir instead of sitka spruce would weigh no more than 15 pounds more and be stronger ! 

This aircraft spruce company also has a plant in Georgia and they resaw cants with a thin band blade because its so expensive that they down want any waste . Just one good 1x6x14 foot board sitka spruce can range from 120$ on up .

Use the log calculator here on the forum and use a general dollar figure like $20 dollars a board foot and see how much one of your trees is worth . I would be sitting down before you hit the total$ button .

You can buy alot of pine logs and a nice bandmill if you want

Good lucky woody !$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

jpgreen

I know a guy with a Wood-Mizer LT40 that can help you saw up them boards..  ;D
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

WkndCutter

Woody,

Welcome to the forum.  I think you are spot on with your thinking.  A swing mill will work for logs that size.  You could take logs that size apart with a chainsaw and then use a band mill but that would be way too much work.  Speaking of work.  Sawing is work, fun work!  I have to agree with most all the posts that the time and energy spent sawing is well worth it.  When I see what has come out of the logs I cut at the end of the day, I'll tell you that you don't get anything like it from the wood store.  When I finish a project from wood I cut, its more than just accomplishment and pride.  I have not had the chance to cut wood from my own trees yet.  Your on the right track.  Have fun and enjoy retirement.

r/

Andy

Woody Woodwrecker

Thanks everyone for all the great responses, I'll try to responds as best I can.                             Brdmkr, I guess that was my fear, having the carriage fly back with that huge blade spinning.  Maybe it's one of those things that you think about at first, but after you use the mill a few times the fear subsides. Not that it's really fear, it's more like caution and respect, which should never subside really. Hmmmm, that has me thinking, I guess originally it is a mixture of fear, caution, and respect, then after you become confident and have some experience the fear part goes away leaving just caution and respect?
Thank you for the invite to run you mill, that is very decent of you! With the hurricane season upon us perhaps I'll have reason to be in SW GA sometime over the summer!
Tomboysawyer, this is retirement, you're beginning to make it sound like WORK! Seriously, I was looking at a larger used backhoe like a JD710, which can move quite a bit. But I will be doing some road building, so I've also considered a small dozer. I don't plan on doing enough wood to consider a skidder, my thought was I'll just work slower. I think just the appearance of a skidder in my area would raise a few eyebrows! My property is near timberland on one side and state/national park on the other, so there are "issues" doing anything on too large of a scale.
Woodbeard, great link, I'll have to make it up to Oregon to check on the Spruce Goose. I learned something new from your link; the Spruce Goose was made mainly from Birch, not Spruce!
Deadheader, I suppose I have wrecked a few boards here and there, but just on the tablesaw, I've yet to mill a single log. My wife is always yelling something about "measure twice, cut once" but the noise of the machinery sort of drowns out her voice, if you know what I mean. No way, I'll cancel my Ca trip, it's my once a year chance to be out of the rat race and "in the trees".  I think what I might do is go a little earlier than planned and get some measurements and pics of my trees and take that info to Moultrie

Woody Woodwrecker

WOW, I'm amazed at all the great responses I've had, this is a great forum and I've learned a lot already. One point I would like to make is I don't think selling any of my wood is in the cards for me because of the California regulations. I'll have to talk to a forester again, but my understanding is you need the timber harvest plan which is very costly. Exceptions are made for you own use of the material.  I will have to see if there is an exception for dead trees, blow downs, etc. I'm more interested in using the few healthy trees I would take down for house locations, defensible space clearings, dead trees, and the occasional blow down, but I'm not interested in logging the property for maximum gain.
Qweaver, I have not been able to find any info on the new D&L machine yet, do you have any details. You got me thinking that I need to think more about what lumber I need. I figured 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, and possibly some 2x10 for the cabin, plus siding and an occasional beam. I think an 8 inch swing blade would cover everything but the 2 x10. I know I could rotate the head for the 2 x 10 and even 1 x 12 even though it is not the most efficient way to mill lumber. My intent was to use 2 x 6 or 8 for roof decking and flooring. How do you use 1 x 12 in your cabin?

tcsmpsi

Hey Woody

I would do some serious considerations along the line of UncleBuck's thinking.

Those folks who are experienced and equipped to handle that size and type of tree, would most likely be able and willing to provide a whole bunch of smaller, structural trees for your milling pleasures and needs for payment or partial payment of your sitka(s). 

Perhaps any required permitting, etc. might be better equipped as well.

It would seem that you are genuinely concerned with your stewardship of the land and its miracles.  Perhaps the best overall application would most properly serve that responsibility.

\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

Woody Woodwrecker

Hi tcsmpsi,   Yes, I am concerned with the land. I have pictures of the area from the early seventies where some of it was heavily logged and it wasn't pretty. If you look at the area now there is an amazing difference with the trees all grown. Luckily, I still have some of the old growth spruce left. I can provide a link for awesome aerial pictures if anyone is interested. You can see the same general area in the seventies, eighties, 2001-2002 and 2005. I also have other issues with Elk habitat. Another interesting thing is that there are Chanterelle mushrooms growing in some sort of symbiotic relationship with the spruce, so less spruce, less Chanterelles and I really like Chanterelles.
I'm not sure about the last part of your post. Are you suggesting that it would be wrong to use my timber for my own use if it could be sold or exchanged for lesser wood and therefore have lesser impact?  I sort of see what you are saying, but I plan on using for the most part dead trees or just a few live trees cleared for a cabin site.

jpgreen

Woddy- Jeff Meyer in Eureka demos Petersons too.  Don't have his number at the moment..  :)

Also where you need to be "Low key" being next to that park and all you really need to take a hard look at a swinger.  That's as low key as you can get.

All those elk over there.  Such tasty meat just laying around getting fat.  Someone needs to stir the pot a little..  :D
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Woody Woodwrecker

jpreen, I haven't tried the elk yet. There used to be a restaurant here that served it and I hear that it is really very good. They have the Big Lagoon elk hunt next to me, but that is a lottery and most of the tags go to out of town people. The truth is I don't think I could ever shoot one. They are magnificent creatures, and even after seeing them many times occasionally I am struck dumb when I see three or four large bulls standing in front of me with those huge racks. Now if one of them would happen to accidentally fall into my barbeque pit, well, that's another story!
I should probably contact one of the Peterson or Lucas reps and see if they will come out for a day to demo the machine. I would be willing to pay for the time/expense or share lumber with them. I have a standing dead smaller tree (about 30- 36 inches) right next to a driveway that would be easy to get to.

jpgreen

Woody-

That restaurant is still there.  I forget the name of it, but it's where you turn off on a dirt road to go to Gold Bluffs Beach.. which is an awesome spot on the coast.

Those elk are from the giant Roosevelt herd.  They are more like town cattle.  I was watching them couple of months ago on the way up to Hiouchi for some steelhead fishing...  8)

If you get a mill for the big stuff, and want to cut some nice flooring or siding and save some wood with thin kerf Woodmizer, let me know.  I'll bring my LT40 up and trade for lumber.  I also been wanting to lauch my boat out of Trinidad.  I fish off shore out of  Shelter Cove normally.. :D
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Woody Woodwrecker

jpgreen, bad news! The restaurant was called Rolfs and not only is it closed it has been torn down and turned into more pasture for the elk. Rolfs was relocating at the Little Red Schoolhouse and sold his property to the park. Then the inspectors came out and shut him down over silly stuff after he put a lot of money into renovations. I think he got disgusted and gave up. There was talk of his son opening up at the new airport park, but I don't think that has happened.
How big of a log can you handle? Maybe we can find some smaller logs to try out. I'll be coming out for a month in oct/sept and maybe a weekend here and there over the summer. I'd be glad to share wood with you.

jpgreen

No Kiddn'?

These DanG county inspectors are killing business and chasing families out for the most insane things, and then the county cries because they are broke.

Then - all they know how to do is gouge more tax paying residents...  >:(

Building inspectors forced a family out of our county here over a deck. It got down to being a choice of paying tremendous costs (which they did not have the money for) or face jail time.  They left.

Is this America?..  >:(  What part of the word "freedom" is represented by this state?

Oh shoot don't get me started.  I get so angry, I can't type a logical point..  ::)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Part_Timer

Woody welcome to the forum

You are going down the right path with the swinger.  If you go into the gallery you can see lots of larger logs being milled and doublecutting.  Check out mine, ga_boys, Troy, brdmkr, Ianb, and Captains.  There are others but those are a few that come to mind. 


I have had my mill pull away from me before but never try to run me over.  When you are making the horiz. cut I watch the leading edge of the blade.  You can see if it is starting to ride high or low on the cut ,that will tell you if the tension in the log is making it bend or if you are about to bind up. 

Get as much HP as you can afford. 

JP since when does it take you being mad  to not be able to make a logical point.   :o :D :D ;)

Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

jpgreen

-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Burlkraft

Why not just 1 pain free day?

thurlow

tomboysawyer..................we'd like to hear more about this sawing topless;  can't really get the image in my mind;  PICTURES WOULD BE NICE!   8)
Here's to us and those like us; DanG few of us left!

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

getoverit

Woody, I'm just north of Jacksonville Florida, and would be happy to demo my Peterson 10" ATS mill for you. I have a 5' diameter live oak log that is 12' long waiting for a good demo day ;)  By the way guys.... y'all should have seen me hauling THAT log home on my F350 flatbed truck ;D  It took a 10 ton crane to set it up there for me, and all the air I could pump into the air lift bags on the truck to get tire clearance on the bed too.

Let me know if you're interested and we can schedule a day in for ya.
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

VA-Sawyer

Wow, this is one serious group of sawdust makers. A FEMALE sawyer makes a comment about sawing topless and not one person offers to help her out.  In fact, I believe only one sawyer actually realized what she was saying, and he just wanted pictures !
I'm guessing that most folks here read 'topless' and thought  'hatless'   :D
VA-Sawyer

Jeff

Or they respectfully carry on with what they were talking about because they know that this is the Forestry Forum not the playboy channel.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

oakiemac

Woodwrecker,

Utilizing those tree for you own use will be a lot of work but the rewards will also be great. There is huge satisfaction in turning a pile of logs into a whack of useable lumber especially if it is for your own house.
My thoughts on your plan:

Don't rule out the multi-blade like the MD or Double cut. A swing blade might be the ticket as well but make sure they can cut a board wider then 6". Some of them can and some can't easily.

Go to the forestry show and/or visit people with the swingblade or other type saw. Seeing it run first hand is worth a thousand videos.

I think you would want to air dry your lumber first before using it. That spruce should dry very fast.

Also get a list of the other tools that you will need. Cant hooks, chains, chainsaw, chaps, helment, tongs, come alongs, loaders ect. This could be a fairly significant investment unless you already have some of these items.

The idea of subcontracting out felling the large trees is a good idea. Felling big timber is no place to learn as you go.

Keep us updated. Sounds like you are in for some real fun. If I lived closer I would certainly offer to help you out.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Woody Woodwrecker

Thanks everyone for all the responses and advice. I think it says a lot about the quality of the people here when so many people offer to help or set up demos. It seems most think I am on the right track with either a swing blade or circular mill. I know of 2 manufacturers in Oregon which is pretty close for me. Also I noticed on Sawmill exchange an abundance of used circular mills in Oregon, so I may consider that option. I'm also leaning towards having a professional take down the larger trees and I'll probably start with the trees mother nature has taken down for me. If I go with a swing mill I am going to have a hard time deciding on an 8 inch vs. a 10 inch and I've started reading some threads on that subject. The length of the lumber I need will also have a big effect on the equipment needed to move them, so maybe I should not rule out the sawmill portability requirement so soon. I plan on going out to my property and start measuring up the trees and trying to assess what trees I would clear for the house/cabin sites.  One thing about this area is I am right on the Pacific coast and the temperature is cool year round. It rarely gets below freezing and rarely gets above 70 degrees. Probably 80 percent of the time it is within 10 degrees of 54 degrees. Also the humidity is usually near 100 percent. And of course there is lots of fog. So I wonder what those conditions will affect the quality of the wood (spacing of anular rings, summer wood vs. winter wood, sap content, etc). I also wonder how that will affect the air drying of the wood. I guess that is actually a topic for another section of the forum, so I should pose my questions over there. One final question, I have quite a few red alder trees and some of them are 24 to 30 inches, but they are not very tall or straight.  Does anyone have much experience with red alder as far as suitability for cabinet or flooring wood. An old timer here told me they don't really get any bigger than the larger mature ones I have here and they tend to die when they get this large anyhow, so I may consider taking a few of them if the wood is useful for something other than smoking salmon.  Thanks again everyone for all the help and encouragement!

doublecut

Welcome Woody Woodwrecker
Hope you are finding all the info you are looking for. We (D&L Doublecut Sawmills) have just finished a show in Ontario at bancroft . The shows are a good way to do research for sure.
doublecut

Woody Woodwrecker

Hi there doublecut, I have not been able to locate any information on the new swing blade saw. Any info you can provide would be appreciated.

Ianab

QuoteSo I wonder what those conditions will affect the quality of the wood (spacing of anular rings, summer wood vs. winter wood, sap content, etc). I also wonder how that will affect the air drying of the wood.

I wouldn't worry about the climate, it's the same as we have here on the NZ west coast. The species you mentioned are in their natural environment there, and the wood will be 'normal'. The Doug fir, redwoods and cedars have been imported in NZ and grow well here too. They are easy enough to air dry even in the humid climate, just built a roof to keep the rain off and make sure there is good airflow through the stack. We have problems with pine staining because drying is slow, but the more resistant woods aren't a problem. They will probably only dry down to ~14% moisture, but thats fine for construction work, especially in our climates. Actually its close enough for inside too, unless you are going to be running heavy duty aircon / dehumidifier setup.

As far as mill choice, the 8" cut is probably all you need. Most of your boards are going to be 8" or less, and you can make the bigger beams up to 16" by double cutting. The Peterson ATS or Lucas 8" will do what you want. The bigger engine options will just let you saw faster, your offloader may not think thats such a great idea  :D  You can set up and run the mills by yourself, but with a helper you can expect to saw twice as much in a day. You can either set them up with a simple log deck for the smaller logs, or wheel the mill to the bigger logs where they lay and set up around them. Easier to move a 700lb sawmill or a 7 ton log?  ;)

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

jpgreen

Woody that red alder, or alder is the best for smoked salmon hands down. I also wonder what else ouy could use it for?

You asked before how big of a log my mill can handle and the specs are 36" diameter by 21', but there are many ways to odd shaped, and bigger logs.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

KnotBB

The Sitka is probably not "Old Growth" which grows (grew?) in a supressed forest, i.e. competing with other tall trees.  I've cut such that was left after the other higher value trees were cut on the Oregon Coast and the they have very wide annular rings, like 3 per inch, which limits market demand.   Some call it "bastard growth"  and it's used mostly for white wood chips. And spruce is not very rot resistance so if it is a wind fall big chance of rot.

The knots are so hard in Spruce that they draw sparks from a chain saw. Was using a Mobile Dimension and the saw whould ride up on the knots and you had to tear the board off the log because it wasn't cut off.  The limbs make excelet fire wood because of the hardness and some old timers used them for fence posts. 
Spruce is tricky to fall.  The whole tree comes back toward the stump after it hits the ground because the limbs don't break off or crack when it falls.  Really awesome to see a 4' dia. 200' long tree coming at you like a locomotive.  Get a professional!
Spruce makes good framing lumber and finish wood  and it's a nice light color, but large knots can be a problem.

Steve
To forget one's purpose is the commonest form of stupidity.

thecfarm

Welcome to the forum,woodwrecker.Love that handle.Just like it was suggested,go somewhere and watch the saws in action and ask lots of questions and do it all over again.Seems like you said you had a couple years before all this started to happen.This is good.That will give you time to look and ask questions.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Woody Woodwrecker

Thanks everyone for all the advice, I've learned a lot. I've been watching vendor videos and plan on attending some shows. I may get to see some local sawmill  action here in Florida soon. I've got about three acres here with mostly pine and oak. My wife pointed out to me that a few of the pines were dead that I had not noticed. Well, I took a look and sure enough they were dead and had a ring of "beetle sawdust" arround the base. So I'm thinking of seeing if I can find someone who will come out and saw the logs up. I'm going to have to find out how many trees and the sizes. I'm also going to have to figure out what sort of pine I have. These are not the skinny, springy ones that blow over in a strong wind. I've learned here on the forum that there are at least four species of southern yellow pine, so I've got to narrow it down. Another option is to load them on an equipment trailer and take them to a sawyer. Other than maybe some fencing, a shed, or thick slab for a fireplace mantle, I don't have any real use for the wood, so I may try to find someone who will do the work in exchange for the wood. I guess more importantly I've got to figure out what to do about the bettles so they don't kill more trees.

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