log spline

[surfsupinhawaii]

It has been a while since I have posted anything here. I have just finished putting my underlayment on after getting my rough in plumbing inspection. My logs are to show up in a few days and I had a few questions. I am a Gen contractor but have never built a log home. I am wondering what you all thought about the spline joint where two logs meet in a wall. I am using 8'' swedish cope logs. Wondering If I should cut a vertical groove  1/2'' wide 3/4'' deep at the ends of the logs I want to join and then place a OSB spline in and if the spline should fit tight or just snug. I also saw that someone had drilled a 1'' hole down the center of where the logs met and drove a wood dowel into it. Not sure about the best way and what a good jig would be to cut all of these grooves with my router. Also wondering about the window bucks, how far should the logs be from the bucks. I have read that it says the logs should stop 1/2'' from the buck. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help and all of the past help you have all given to me . If I need to be more clear, let me know, Thanks.

[TW]

I have done it like this when repairing loghouses.

The traditional way to scarph logs is to cut a 38 mm(1 1/2")wide groove in the end of one log and a toungue in the end of the other log. The tongue should be about 7cm(3") long and the groove a little deeper. The empty space at the bottom of the groove is filled with caulking material before the next log is put on the wall. Each log  end shuld be fastened down to the log below witrh a 1 1/2" peg about 30-50cm (12-20") from the ends. Theese pegs keep the tongue and groove from beeing pulled apart.

The first sill log should be scarphed with either a hook scarph (whatever you call it in English). The same kind that is used for sills in timberframing. Or you can use a nibbed straight scarph and lock it with a peg. All this because the sill log may have to take tension.

I am no expert but this way is proven since centuries back.

[surfsupinhawaii]

Thanks for responding TW. What you described sounds like a very sure fire way to keep the two logs together. I am building this home which is around 2400 sq ft  by myself, a friend comes and helps once in a while but I just finished laying 48 sheets of underlayment and boy do my knees hurt. Not sure if I have the time  for doing that type of a connection. I have until around November before the snow starts and a lot of  building to do. I think I might try the groove with an OSB spline and caulking, anyone know how far to keep the logs from the door and window bucks. Thanks again.

[iffy]

48 sheets of underlayment. Been there, done that recently. Fortunately my son teaches a high school house building class and he loaned me his drill/driver that takes the strips of screws, and has an extension so you can do it standing up. These 61 yr old knees appreciated that.
Am also building swedish cope, designed my own stacking diagram and ordered a random lentgth package with a few specials. Mine are 9". I tried to find some of that spline stuff that some kit builders supply, a teflon spline that fits in a skil saw kerf. Found some, but had to order a case, which would do a whole neighborhood.
So, instead am cutting 3/4" wide x 3/4" deep dados in the log end, and using a spline made of 3/4" osb. Am marking the cuts, then just making multiple passes with a skil saw, and a final pass from side to side as I go up to clean up the bottom. Just takes a minute or two. Putting adhesive in the grooves, and a bead on the end of one log about an inch in from the perimeter.  With the first log bolted down, I set the mating log in place, and then drill my clearance hole and counterbore close to the end. Am using 1/2" lag screws, so am drilling a 9/16" clearance hole and 1 1/2" counterbore for each bolt. I put a short piece of 1 1/4" black pipe in a counterbore in each log, then put a bar clamp across the pipes and suck the log ends tight together. Then I go to the other end of the log and drill my pilot hole, clearance hole, and conterbore and put in a lag screw.  Can then release the clamp and put the rest of the lag screws in. Doesn't take as long to do as it did to explain it here. The clearance hole and counterbore I am doing in one pass, as I made a drill bit that would do that.
Like you, am also working alone, but invite my sons down any time they want to work. gluck.