Author Topic: Repair to a beam drill handle (Read 3222 times)

routestep · « **on:** December 18, 2007, 07:49:02 PM »

My beam drill fell over and one of the handles snapped off at the knuckle, where the handle attached to the gear shaft of the drill. I pretty much knew this was bound to happen one day. Has anyone repaired a drill with this type of break? The repairs I can think of are:
1. Weld the handle back on. The metal looks like cast iron and I don't know how well it repairs.
2. Somehow get the knuckle off the gear shaft and fit a new handle on. It looks like a heat shrink fit with lots of rust.

Sprucegum · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2007, 01:38:46 AM »

Just run it over to your local machine shop - they will weld it on for you in a minute - and charge you for an hour

Cast can be welded with a high nickel-content rod if you want to try it yourself. Make sure you preheat and cool slowly.

Raphael · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2007, 02:44:27 AM »

Should welding fail, I've seen parts going on eBay.
A little heat and a gear puller should crack loose the old knuckle for you.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:16:21 AM »

We may have parts on hand, what type is it?
Can you post a picture of the broken part and/or the whole thing...?

Jim Rogers

routestep · « **Reply #4 on:** December 19, 2007, 08:09:57 PM »

Thanks for the advise. I'll see if I can get a picture taken and try to determine how to post it.

routestep · « **Reply #5 on:** December 21, 2007, 09:15:23 AM »

Is there a location on the site that tells how to insert a picture? I can't seem to find the spot that tells how.

Furby · « **Reply #6 on:** December 21, 2007, 09:19:36 AM »

Yup, here ya go:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=23851.0

raycon · « **Reply #7 on:** December 21, 2007, 03:40:39 PM »

I have a drill that has black locust handles instead of cast. If you make one out of wood just check that the grain is orientated properly and oversize it.

Same thing probably happened to the original that I own (dropped/fell over) it had fractured right at the boss to the bevel gear shaft. I inserted a bronze bushing drilled,tapped and use a set screw this is what holds it onto the shaft that drives the bevel gear. Shaft has a V-grove on it and is cast not machined so its a bit tapered.
I thought I'd remake it out of aluminum when one side failed has not yet failed. I use it fairly often but have three. One with a 1.5" bit, one with a 2" bit and this one which I use with a 1" or 1.5" bit.

When I pulled the broken one apart I used a gear puller to get the nub off. It was not a machined fit more like casting to casting and a bit of a shim.

routestep · « **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2007, 05:35:30 PM »

Here are some pictures of the beamdrill......

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #9 on:** December 27, 2007, 07:10:37 PM »

That is a Swan machine. James Swan and company out of CT for sure.
I can check with my partner Tom and see if he has any parts for one, if you'd like.

Jim Rogers

routestep · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2007, 07:48:23 AM »

Jim, if you can find a part I'd like to know, but I have to say I'm debating with myself where to repair the current handle or replace it with a wooden one like raycon stated. I didn't think a replacement handle was a possibility.

This site is an outstanding source for info.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #11 on:** December 28, 2007, 09:39:39 AM »

So you need the part from the horizontal shaft to the knob? Do you need the knob also?
I've emailed my partner in the tool business and I'm waiting for a reply.
He should be over here tomorrow for sure, but he should reply shortly.

Jim Rogers

routestep · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2007, 04:28:27 PM »

My broken handle has the wooden knob on it. It is frozen inplace, doesn't rotate as the drill is use and never has as long as I've owned the beam drill. So, yes, I did a knob.

If one isn't available I'll try to get the current one off. I guess there is a plug hiding an internal fastener.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2007, 08:59:25 AM »

He says he has one on hand that he intends to fully restore so he doesn't want to break it up for parts.
I'll see if I can find another friend who has some machines for parts....

Jim Rogers

routestep · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2008, 12:33:35 PM »

OK, That would be great. I'll see about pulling the broken knuckle off. Do you know if the horizontal gear shaft is heat treated? I think I'll have to heat the knuckle up with a torch to get it off with a gear puller and I wouldn't want to disturb a heat treated part. There is a lot of rust on/in the knuckle.

In the mean time I have some braces to make and I have a chain mortiser to keep me busy. Also some T augers for shallow mortises.

beenthere · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2008, 12:49:10 PM »

Hopefully you have RustReaper to use on that rust before trying to remove the handle. Can't be beat, in my opinion and experience with RR.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2008, 02:20:47 PM »

I think all the parts are cast steel/iron, but not totally sure.
The handles just slide onto the shaft and there is a key-way in the shaft and handle to keep the handle from just spinning on the shaft. As far as I know there is no fastener holding the handle on the shaft.
I'd put it on it's side, broken side up and put some Rust Reaper on the end and let it set for a few days and work it's way in. And then try and move it before heating it up....

routestep: I just send you a regular email about a replacement handle, I just found....

Jim Rogers

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Author Topic: Repair to a beam drill handle (Read 3222 times)

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