which sawmill to buy

rocky mountain high · March 01, 2009, 05:31:44 PM

I am thinking of buying a sawmill and moulder. After countless hours staring at this computer I've concluded that either the Cooks or Logmaster is the direction I think I'm headed. For moulders either a Woodmaster or Logosol. Any feedback would be apprecited

saw4you · March 01, 2009, 06:34:33 PM

Very simple wood-mizer and logosol

Jack

rocky mountain high · March 01, 2009, 06:37:25 PM

any particular reason? The choices I came up with were based on reviews posted here and there. I assume you own a woodmizer. Have you owned anything else?

Haytrader · March 01, 2009, 06:42:37 PM

Welcome rmh,

Most of us here have asked the same question, at least about a sawmill.
All brands of mills will cut good lumber if they are set up right and have a sharp band.
We all have opinions of which are best. I know that is hard to believe. :D
The general consenses is to get all the bells and whistles you can afford.
Support equipment is also important and the more of that you have the better.

Have you operated any mill? If so, you already have an idea of what is needed. If not, go to some shows and ask a lot of questions and/or find someone that has these mills and ask to come help them for a day to see how they work.

Good luck and ask a lot of questions here. We have a lot of fun here and some of these guys are very knowledgable.

Jeff · March 01, 2009, 06:45:07 PM

The best recommendation you can get from me, is to pick a company from the left. They have the foresight to be here looking after guys like you. These companies have employees that are Forestry Forum members. Those members are here most every day to help with issues that you may have, related to a machine or perhaps just related to something as simple as owen inexperience. Outside of that, you have the membership here for support, and the reason they are here with there 1000's of years of combined experience is because of those companies on the right.

rocky mountain high · March 01, 2009, 06:58:27 PM

thanks for the feedback everyone so far. I have operated an old circular mill about 20 years ago. I spent more time working on it than sawing. But I got the bug and knew someday I'd be back. I enjoy making lumber more than building with it. I've seen several Woodmizers operating and I guess they were probably not adjusted right. I know the machine is only as good as it's operator to some degree. I do have some equipment to handle logs and wont be making a living from it At least I dont think so. It will simply be a way to scratch the itch and also use in custom homes that I build. I have a tendency to buy the best I think I can afford so it sounds like I may be headed in that right direction anyway.

Tom_in_Mo. · March 01, 2009, 07:41:02 PM

Go BLUE!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D

off to the woodshed I go...........

TheWoodsman · March 01, 2009, 07:59:18 PM

Quote from: rocky mountain high on March 01, 2009, 05:31:44 PM
I am thinking of buying a sawmill and moulder. After countless hours staring at this computer I've concluded that either the Cooks or Logmaster is the direction I think I'm headed. For moulders either a Woodmaster or Logosol. Any feedback would be apprecited

If you are jumping in with both feet and lots of money, and you have already excluded the Wood-Mizers, I would suggest the Cooks or Baker four posters.

As far as moulders, I'd buy a Williams and Hussey before the Woodmaster and a used Weinig or SCMI four head before the Logosol. I'm sure it is a fine machine but I stand by my recommendations based on personal experience.

Banjo picker · March 01, 2009, 09:17:23 PM

I have a Cooks and I like it, but I have never owned any other mill. I will say a properly set up woodmizer with a good operator will cut some mighty fine wood. My oldest son's house is decked with one by lumber that came off a woodmizer that is as true as any you will buy at any lumber yard. I would get a mill that has a drag back feature, as it is much quicker than off loading on the side of the mill. I had a off roller put on the mill, and it was probably the best money spent. Like has been said get all the bells and whistles you can. Tim

york · March 02, 2009, 07:00:57 AM

HI all,

I look at every mill out there-am a fan of the shootouts too-got to tell you,the Baker boys build a straight forward,no nonsense "SAWMILL"

Tom Sawyer · March 02, 2009, 08:04:55 AM

I have a Wood Mizer, and although I believe that the other brands will cut wood, I would never buy anything other than WM. If you saw a WM that was not cutting well, it had nothing to do with the quality of the sawmill, but rather it was most likely the operater, either using a dull blade or not aligning the mill properly.

Customer service with WM is second to none (and I have heard others here say the same thing about other brands).

Which ever sawmill you decide on get as much horsepower as you can and as many bells and whistles as you can.

Tom

MaddiesDad · March 02, 2009, 10:29:47 AM

Go to some sawmill shows. I've honestly heard NO complaints about Woodmizer and Baker. Both are very nice mills. I've honestly got no clue on the other ones.

Tarzan · March 02, 2009, 11:12:42 AM

I have just been through the same questions as you, but I decided on a bandmill from Forestor, it`s produced in the Czech Rep. The basic model was a little cheaper than the competetors, so that meant I had money for a all the xtras and a band sharpener from same company. I too have been through the joys of an old circular saw and a chainsawmill from Logosol, lot of good lessons. Ofcouse the mill is the heart of the operation, but one thing I have learned is that all the logistics around the mill is as important to get a good workflow, and thereby satisfaction from the work.
Good luck with deciding.

Chico · March 02, 2009, 07:50:00 PM

I don't relly know mch about small mills I have ran a WM some The advice I would give you is think about Parts availability sooner or later you gotta have them Czech. is a long way off not to say their prod isn't a good choice I just always thought about parts myself
Chico

ErikC · March 02, 2009, 07:56:24 PM

From Sweden it 's not that far. We have members from all over on here. ;)

kelLOGg · March 02, 2009, 08:33:19 PM

My experience is more limited than others' on the FF so put this where you think it belongs. I looked at a lot of manual mills before I bought. When I observed a mill in operation I unconsciencely put my foot on the saw deck as it was being demonstrated. When I saw the Cooks in operation I noticed that I could barely feel the vibration and realized that the others vibrated more. That sold me. Maybe many others could pass this test but I had looked enough. I assume their production mill (as well as many others) will behave the same.

Chico · March 02, 2009, 09:16:56 PM

Just a general statement though I guess I should have seen he was from Sveden ;)

Chico

ErikC · March 02, 2009, 09:20:24 PM

Well one thing about heavy equipment of all kinds is IT WILL BREAK sometime or other. You were right on to mention parts availability.

rocky mountain high · March 02, 2009, 09:45:01 PM

well I got more feedback than I know what to do with. Someone said they will all do the job and I'm beginning to see that. I do appreciate everyones comments. Just to throw a kink in the discussion, has anyone ever used a circular mill like the double cut By D&L?

beenthere · March 02, 2009, 09:49:51 PM

Double cut or Mobile Dimension. Member DanG is one who has the Mobile Dimension, I believe.

Handy Andy · March 02, 2009, 11:45:25 PM

A lot depends on how you are going to use your equipment. Is your plan to make a living with it or just saw and mill for yourself? I have a Cook mp32, and it is very durable, but if I were sawing for a living would get a hydraulic mill. My neighbors have a TK 1600 and it is a very nice mill, bought pretty right used. My Cook was used also. There are lots of mills used very little and a few years old guys are ready to part with. I like my Woodmaster for my woodworking shop, but I don't sell molding. A 4 head molder makes flooring or trim faster, as it will do it all in one pass, and the Woodmaster, you have to plane the wood to thickness, then put the molding cutter on and cut the molded part.

rocky mountain high · March 02, 2009, 11:50:15 PM

they both look interesting. The mobile dimension may be a bit on the small side for cutting large beams. It seems as if one could avoid changing bands several times a day by using one of these mills. I know the teeth still need sharpened however. I'm not sure the versatility is there like the bandsaw. Of course that is speculation on my part as i dont own either one yet.

ErikC · March 02, 2009, 11:55:52 PM

The mobile dimension will whip up on anything out there cutting beams up to 4, 6, or 8"x12", depending on your edger blades. It's a serious machine for big logs and fast cutting. Bigger beams than that are not what it was built for, but an 8x12 is pretty big.

MrMoo · March 03, 2009, 12:10:56 PM

If one of your choices is a Logmaster you are on the right road. I have one and I think they are they best machines on the market. I had another machine before I bought this one and I researched them all before I got this one. After buying it I knew I had made the correct choice.
Logmasters are very rugged machines that cut true lumber. The company is family owned and offers great support. You cannot go wrong with one their machines.

StorminN · March 03, 2009, 06:36:57 PM

Quote from: rocky mountain high on March 01, 2009, 05:31:44 PM
I am thinking of buying a sawmill and moulder. After countless hours staring at this computer I've concluded that either the Cooks or Logmaster is the direction I think I'm headed. For moulders either a Woodmaster or Logosol. Any feedback would be apprecited

What size and type logs will you have, and what sort of end product are you looking to make? Do you plan on working alone, or will you have help? Do you have support equipment... tractor, skidsteer, something with forks?

-Norm.

DanG · March 04, 2009, 01:40:51 PM

Yes, I am one of several members who own Mobile Dimension mills. I like it a lot. About the only thing you cannot do with it is cut stacks of wide boards over 12" wide. You can cut a beam of any size with it, but you're limited to one per log if they are over 8"x12". While it won't do the stack of wide boards, it does have the capability of making one big "slab" of whatever size the log will support, and the log size is totally unlimited. I can even remove the mill from its trailer and mount it directly on a huge log if I want to. I don't want to, though! :D :D :D

The D&L works the same way essentially, but its four-poster design limits the size of the logs it can handle.

I've often wished I had a bandmill to do the things the MD won't, but I wouldn't trade. It would have to be an additional mill. ;)

tomtrees · March 04, 2009, 02:43:02 PM

I have a swing mill and need less support equipment (lifting and edging equipment) can cut large logs and do the same as DanG. People always talk about the loss of wood dew to the with of blade but, and I may be wrong but I think in the real world it is neither here nor there. I think circular saws are worth a look. I like mine it is a Peterson.

Chico · March 04, 2009, 04:46:22 PM

I agree with the circle saw versus the band saw on wood loss in order too lose any appreciable wood you would have to cut many lines However you may lose some grade simply because it may expose a defect with the little bit more it does take with the kerf I have ran both and I think in most test it was a little between one and 2 % in footage and about the same in grade. These were random tests in high prod mills where they really push these figures with a circle headrig and a band resaw it wasn't meaurable Circles have much less upkeep than bands imo and you do have a lot more leeway in logsize from what I've seen in the swingmil
Chicol

rocky mountain high · March 04, 2009, 10:14:53 PM

Well After that feedback I am definetly headed for the swing mill. I'll have to still decide which one but I really think it is for me and my uses. It appears that quarter sawing would be much easier and the kerf issue doesnt bother me. I definetly like not having to deal with sharp bands several times a day. This is very part time for me so that may not make a difference but I do like being able to sharpen the blade myself. Thanks again everyone for all the input. I will keep you all posted as to progress and I welcome any further thoughts

ErikC · March 04, 2009, 10:26:55 PM

Well, I have a Peterson and it does about anything I want it to. There is less learning curve on sawing in general, but as far as grade sawing hardwoods, there is more of a curve I think. Maybe just for me because I do mostly dimensional lumber. I'm not sure a bandmill wouldn't be better if that's ALL you want to do. It can be done on a swinger though.
I also really like the low maintenance, if you don't use it really often, this will be a big plus for you. It won't rust, hoses won't rot and the simple electrics, if you get one with any at all, are a breeze.

8) 8) 8)

VanWild · March 10, 2009, 12:42:13 AM

I run a Brand X swing saw, worth looking into. We've used it hard for 5 years now. Cut a heck of a lot of wood.

cheyenne · March 10, 2009, 11:05:03 PM

I researched mills for two years till I found a twin blade automatic. There's nothing it won't do, just takes thought...Cheyenne

ronnie tucker · March 11, 2009, 11:18:14 PM

i want to build a house and a barn i wonder what size band mill i should get i will need to saw some 20ft stuff and just what extras do i really need to run it by myself ronnie tucker tn logger i was thinking woodmizer or maybe logmaster i am use to a 00 frick but that was 25 years ago this bandsaw is all new to me

rocky mountain high · April 01, 2009, 09:35:19 PM

Well thought I'd update everyone on my progress. I'm starting to accumulate a very large pile of nice logs, ponderosa, spruce, lodgepole. 20-26" diameter and 21ft long with a few that vary of course. I'm anxious to start turning them into useable product for our homes. I've spoken to the local lumber grader so kinda know what I'm up against there. The best part is that I have a Logmaster LM2 on order and will be here in two months. 38 hp gas kohler engine and plumbed so I can extend it out to 32 ft when I need to. I've got some ideas about how to build a planer attachment for it also but will wait till it arrives of course. Only to plane the large beams that I'll be cutting. The folks at LM were awesome to deal with and seem very accomidating. A small family business with a father , mother, son team. After speaking with another LM owner on his experience I was sold. So we'll see how it goes. I'll keep everyone posted on progress and I'm sure you're all thinking,"If only he knew what I know" but there's only one way I learn most everything and thats usually "just get started"

oakiemac · April 01, 2009, 10:06:20 PM

My recomendation is to really think about what you want to do with the mill. If you are cutting dimensional stock from pine then the swing mills or a Mobile dimension is definately the ticket. Grade sawing a band mill might have some advantages but make sure you learn to run them properly.
There are a lot of folks out there with sawmills but only a few Sawyers. ;)

Chuck White · April 02, 2009, 05:40:36 AM

I agree that you should see several different models in operation if you have the chance!

I've seen most of them at the annual "woodsmen's days". They're really something to watch, especially when they have a good operator on them.

I didn't really know what brand I wanted, then I helped my FIL a couple years on his manual Wood-Mizer and I ended up getting a used Wood-Mizer hydraulic and I have no regrets, I love this machine.