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Pre drying log cabin logs

Started by woodbowl, April 27, 2009, 11:14:56 PM

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woodbowl

I would really like to find a simple way to have natural logs dry on they're own without checking and superficial cracks. I don't think I've seen a full scribe cabin without them, with the exception of kiln dried and/or heart cut logs. Here in the south I've got some pine logs together for my mancave project and they are starting to check after 4 months of being down. I've expected this, but surly there is a way to  beat most of the odds. Having my own personal kiln is not an option unless there is a very economical way to do it. Today I sprayed them with borax. Most of the bark has rubbed off so the drying is faster now. All I know to do is put them in a stack and cover the top with a tarp leaving the sides open. I'll start scribing this fall, checks and all.

As for  future logs, leaving the bark on slows the drying down, but the southern pine bore beetle has a hayday. Any sugestions?
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Scotswood

I have started taking down 6-8 inch diameter spruce logs. I'm leaving the bark on for a few weeks, plus I'm leaving them in the woods with the cut ends painted with a water repellent stain, all to slow down the inital drying process.

One thing I did learn was to get the tops and branches off as soons as they were cut. I felled a 6m tree and by the time I went back a couple of days later the leaves had evaporated so much water the trunk had split its entire length.

I'm not using a scribe method, but peice en peice, mainly because I think they'll crack anyway no matter what I do as it can take 5 years to dry out, plus Scotland goes from bone dry and hot to freezing and wet in the same day, which doesn't help! Thinking about it, the drying problem decided my construction technique for me.

I'll run the chainsaw on the underside before I build with them to give any checks somewhere out of sight to start.

No easy answers I'm afraid, best of luck with it.

SW

Stephen1

Woodbowl, one way to stop the checking or at least reduce the amount of checking, is using green logs and when cutting the lateral grove in your Full scribe project is to cut into the heartwood of the log. the 1st book I read by Dan Milne described doing that and I believe I only have 5-6 bad checks out of my 50 some odd logs. My logs are all Eastern spruce, so we were expecting a lot of checks in the cabin.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

jander3

As far as I know every log is going to check. I've never seen a log cabin without checked logs.  You can control where the check occurs.  As Stephen 1  & Scotswood mentioned the log will check at the cut that is closest to heart wood.  Generally, where the lateral groove is cut.  However, this might end up opening up the bottom portion of some logs and make the fit a little sloppy (not much a  concern to me). After putting a log on the wall some builders will run a chainsaw kerf the length of the log on the top, this cut is closer to the hearwood than the lateral groove.  This causes any checking to occur on the top of the log which is sealed, insullated, and covered by the log above it.


daffyduck

Just registered and making initial plans to build log cabin "shed" to use for garden equipment, 20 ft x 20 ft.  Using Southern pine on site.  Have some experience in cabin construction but NOT from standing green pine. 

When is best time to cut timber?  To de-bark?  Can logs be cut and placed "green" or how long to dry?

Am almost 70 so am not interested in "cabin" lasting more than 10 to 15 years.  Just a barn really.

Have brick to lay entire perimeter to keep logs off soil as do not plan to have a raised floor, just Ga. red clay flooring.

Daffy

woodbowl

Hey daffy, welcome to the forum. Where in Ga are you located? I'm here in the south close to the Fl/Ga line.
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Stephen1

Welcome daffyduck, timing of when to cut is all about the style you are going to build,  building with green logs is easier as the wood is easier to cut & chisel. Do a search above to find out some things already posted on this forum, lots info already here. start a new post of what you would like to do and people will drop in with info. good luck

Stephen
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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