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Author Topic: belsaw mandrel bearing  (Read 4663 times)

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Offline Tripp

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belsaw mandrel bearing
« on: July 03, 2009, 08:44:51 PM »
Has anyone on the forum ever replaced mandrel bearings on a Belsaw?

How difficult?

 I'm not sure if mine need it yet but the one opposite the saw got pretty warm the other day.  I have not noticed this before it may be normal.

I am surprised they have lasted this long after sitting outside for 20 years unused.

Timberking no longer has the bearings in stock but I assume they could be matched up at a bearing supply store.

Thanks

Tripp

Offline Ron R.

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2009, 10:28:41 PM »
Tripp. I'm just now putting up the woodwork on my belsaw mill. I'll look at the mandrel tomorrow and see if I can see how the bearings are removed. I believe you will have to slide the mandrel shaft out from the blade side. I'll check tomorrow and let you know for sure how it comes apart...............................Ron

Offline Ron R.

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2009, 06:32:43 PM »
Tripp. Checked the bearing on my mill today. Take the power shaft off and unlock the collar on the bearing, Remove bolts that hold the bearing housing to mill beam and slide off of shaft. Rotate bearing 90 degrees and remove from housing.....That is if they are the pillow block bearings like what's on my mill..........Ron

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2009, 08:18:38 PM »
Thanks for the info.

I will probably run the ones I have for a little longer.

It doesn't sound too difficult to replace them. The biggest problem I may have is removing the new paint so I can slide the shaft out.

Thanks

Tripp

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2009, 06:19:11 AM »
Tripp,just for chuckles next time your cutting for any legnth of time feel boath bearings and see if their the same temp.Usally the saw side is warmer due to greater load,if not for sure your back bearing is on its way out.If I recall the Belsaw collar is pressed/shrunk on the shaft and best not disturbed.Use paint stripper on the shaft clean with sandpaper file any nicks so the bearing will slide off easy without pounding.As Ron was saying you can just replace the bearing part of the assembly if it was tight in the cast flange,the number will be on the bearing,and should be available locally.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Meadows Miller

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2009, 08:38:59 AM »
Gday


And Tripp remember this old saying Mate  ;) ;D Grease is the best bearing money can buy  ;) :D 8) 8) esp if its been sitting for a few years give your mandrel bearings a couple of squirts every day to flush the old stuff out ;)

Reguards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2009, 01:30:44 PM »
Sawed a load again this morning so I checked the bearings.  Saw side is slightly warm, belt drive side is hot.

I would love to shoot some grease in, but for some reason belsaw used sealed bearings with no grease fittings.

I have been shooting some motor oil around the bearings and it seems to be getting in.  after running It comes out of the bottom very dark almost burnt.  I did this too when I first started the mill up. Then the oil came out rusty looking.

Looks like time for new bearings.

Offline Chico

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #7 on: July 06, 2009, 06:26:35 PM »
you may get a needle and pump some grease in it to make it last a while as long as you can lay your hand on it it's not that hot the outboard bearing takes a lot of abuse with the belt and the torque of the saw when it loads up
JMO
 Chico
My Daughter My sailor MY HERO God Bless all the men and Women fighting for us today If you see one stop and thank them

Offline Meadows Miller

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2009, 10:16:23 AM »
Gday

Trip when you get the new ones make sure get greasable self alining they should't be too hard to find atleast you noticed it before it turned in to a complete falure and whatever other damage that mighta caused Mate  ;)  ;D

I myself dont know why ppl dont use them from the start esp on sawmills I try and grease my mandrel bearings every day or so on my mills   :) ::) ::)

Reguards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #9 on: July 07, 2009, 02:32:55 PM »
Thanks for all the advice.

I am in the process of breaking down the mandrel assembly today. It's been a fight so far but I will get there.

The rear bearing was popping and clicking when I turned it by hand so I decided it was time to take action.

 If I use a greasable bearing will I have to drill and tap the housing for a grease fitting?

Grease is good!

Tripp

Offline Chico

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #10 on: July 07, 2009, 07:00:30 PM »
yes and make sure that if you do that the hole is predrilled of course and lines up with the groove/hole in the bearing that takes the grease but sealed bearings if aligned properly will prob outlast you jmo
Chico
My Daughter My sailor MY HERO God Bless all the men and Women fighting for us today If you see one stop and thank them

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #11 on: July 07, 2009, 11:00:19 PM »
Got the mandrel off the mill and all parts removed. I ended up having to cut both bed rails to remove the assembly. There was no way to slide the shaft out. Too much rust holding things together.

Off to the bearing distributor tomorrow looking for a RA112. I found a few on the internet so availability should not be a problem. If I can get them in greasable form I will drill and tap the housings.


Tripp

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #12 on: July 08, 2009, 06:17:29 AM »
Tripper,hope you measured the distance from one marked tooth to a point on the carriage ,will save you time setting up the lead,and where to lock the arbor shaft in the bearings.If not no biggie just will take a little longer.Sealed bearings under cover like your mill is will last a long time.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #13 on: July 08, 2009, 09:39:07 AM »
Took a few measurements before I dissembled everything.

Bearings will be here tomorrow.  Grease able for $24.00 each.

Tripp

Offline Meadows Miller

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #14 on: July 08, 2009, 11:14:47 AM »
Gday

Top show Tripp  ;) ;D 8) Your grandson will thank you  ;) :D :D :D

Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Offline Ron R.

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2009, 12:17:46 AM »
Tripp. Have you got the mill back up and running yet? Hope so, miss the posts on your mill operations.  Ron

Offline Tripp

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2009, 12:19:27 PM »
I have been out of town for a while and I am getting back to work on the mill. The bearings are installed and I put grease fittings on the bearings. The mill runs very quiet now. I never realized how much noise those bearings were making. I still have a few adjustments to make to get it cutting square end to end.

I am in the process this week of adding onto the mill shed. Hope to get back to sawing next week.

Thanks again for all the input.

Tripp

Offline apm

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Re: belsaw mandrel bearing
« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2009, 01:52:12 PM »
Hi Tripp,

You're probably already aware, but too much grease is as hard on a bearing as not enough, particularly in a sealed bearing. Once the clearances are filled with grease, it can't dissipate the heat. "Shielded" bearings can be liberally greased, because the excess can escape, but be careful with "sealed" bearings.

Glad to see you're up and running again, you've got a great looking setup and will no doubt inspire wannabe circle sawyers.  :D You've obviously put a lot of work and thought into your entire process.

Greg
Timberking 1600 now


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