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Author Topic: Lets make some tongue and groove  (Read 12756 times)

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Offline tomtrees

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2009, 11:26:43 AM »

Just what I would like to do in the near future Larry.
Dare I ask what “V” panels are ?

Tom trees

Offline Larry

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2009, 06:00:44 PM »
Woodworkers either try to hide there joinery or emphasis it.  In the work I showed it would be hard to hide the joints between the boards so a “V” groove is cut between the boards.  In wider boards such as car siding I’ve even seen a fake “V” groove.

Flooring is another example.  Solid wood flooring has a tongue and groove but after the floor is laid it is sanded so the joints are unnoticed.  Pre-finished engineered flooring many times has that “V” groove so any irregularity between boards won’t be noticed.





Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Offline taw6243

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2009, 09:22:59 PM »
I don't see many choices for T&G cutters - the one we bought leaves a square rather than rounded tongue making assembly a little slower. Do you know of any suppliers that might offer a cutter with a rounded tongue?
Great job on the post, we learned by trial and error and fired one board (harmlessly) across the shop while learning about how much we needed a power feeder.

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Offline woodbowl

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #23 on: August 17, 2009, 11:22:43 PM »
I've joined the shaper club.  8)  Oh, it's just a little Sears 1/2 hp, but it's hd cast and is on a stand. I'm trying to run a little t&g and some of it's turning out and some of it isn't. I don't have a feeder or hold down rollers, so it's all by hand. After running the boards through the planer, some of them still have a bow and don't lay flat on the shaper table. Actually, a lot of this wood is probably going to have a bow, it's sweetgum. I really want to make it work because it's so nice. They are 3/4" rough, and finish out at 1/2" to 9/16". Hopefully it's not too thin to t&g. My cutters are 1/4" tongue, leaving 1/8" on each side. A "V" edge would be nice.  ::)

I know there has to be a few tricks to running substandard wood. I'm thinking about the possiblities of running it crown down, keeping the face side in contact with the table. Your thoughts please.
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Offline Lanier_Lurker

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #24 on: August 18, 2009, 10:33:12 AM »
When I climb cut with a hand held router the router will somtimes progress at a lot faster pace than I had planned. :o

If you want to really have some fun, do some climb cutting on a table saw.  I found myself in this situation by accident one time, and quickly realized I might have gotten disoriented.   :o

At least the piece I was cutting did not go flying across the yard, but it almost got yanked out of my hands.  I was notching a homemade piece of step-down molding and was running it along the top of the fence.

Machine feed when doing climb cuts is probably the only way to do it safely.

Offline pineywoods

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #25 on: August 18, 2009, 10:38:38 AM »
I hear you on the power feed. I have a cheap and dirty project in the works to make one. A small cheap belt sander with a coarse belt. OK it runs too fast, feed power to it through one of the little electronic boxes used to vary the speed on a router. Still have to figure out a mounting system.
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Online beenthere

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #26 on: August 18, 2009, 11:21:22 AM »
Lanier
Trying to figure how you 'climb' cut on a table saw?  Feeding it from the back side is best I can figure.  ::)
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Offline brdmkr

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #27 on: August 18, 2009, 12:07:42 PM »
Anybody ever thought about making a powerfeed from a gear motor?  I have one that turns 48 RPM with lots of torque.  Seems like it ought to be doable.
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Offline Lanier_Lurker

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #28 on: August 18, 2009, 10:24:04 PM »
Lanier
Trying to figure how you 'climb' cut on a table saw?  Feeding it from the back side is best I can figure.  ::)

Exactly.

Offline woodhick

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #29 on: August 18, 2009, 10:33:52 PM »
Larry thanks for the info.  I have made some paneling for my shop out of poplar like this but I did not use and auxillary fence the way you did.  I jointed one edge  ripped cut the groove and then cut the tongue.  I like the way you use the extra fence to set the final width also.
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Offline park ranger

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #30 on: August 20, 2009, 02:03:40 AM »
I just got done with putting cedar wainscoting in my living room.  I used a bead on one side of the boards with no groove or overlap at all.  The bead hides any gap that might form (even a 1/16").  I ran it all through my shaper that I traded for a waist high stack of cedar boards.  Compared to flooring where the exact width is important the wainscoting went up fast. 

Offline woodbowl

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #31 on: August 21, 2009, 05:53:24 PM »
  I used a bead on one side of the boards with no groove or overlap at all.  The bead hides any gap that might form (even a 1/16"). 

What kind of bead PR? What is the shape of it? Sounds fast.
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Offline park ranger

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Re: Lets make some tongue and groove
« Reply #32 on: August 22, 2009, 03:52:17 AM »
 Hi woodbowl,  I think the radius of the bead is about 3/16", it's a cutter that I bought from harbor fraight.  I have to get the camera and take some pictures.  I got a old growth cedar snag about 3' that I cut it out of.  It went from log to wall in about 3 weeks.  I stikered it in the living room and when it got down to about 8% I planed it and then ripped it for exact width on the table saw.  I'll see about pictues tomorrow.


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