Table saw rust

[oregonsawer]

I have my shop in a metal building.
My table saw and jointer is always rusting.

What do you guys use to prevent this?

[RSteiner]

I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy

[DouginUtah]

Top Cote and/or heat.

[Larry]

I had the same problem.  Condensation was the cause and normally happened in the spring and fall.  I kept the machines waxed with Johnson paste wax but that only helped.  To control the condensation I laid a heavy piece of plastic sheeting over the equipment.  I cut the plastic sheeting so it was only a couple of inches larger than the machine top.

[SwampDonkey]

I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy

Ditto to what Randy does.

And yes, I get moisture up through the concrete (water vapour) and no ventilation in the shop during spring/summer/early fall.

[Patty]

I scrub the rust off with steel wool, and then rub in a generous coat of Johnson's paste wax. WD 40 sounds like less work tho

[jim king]

Here in the Amazon with 90 degrees and 90% humidity most every day I have a full time waxer that when he finishes the round of the machines he starts over.

We have a lot of very acidic wood that also adds to the problem but wax and more wax keeps everything looking new.

[IMERC]

furniture paste wax...

WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..

[SwampDonkey]

WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..

Yes, have to be careful and thorough removing it.

[Jasperfield]

I use a very hard drying paste wax called "Renaissance Wax". It's been used by woodworkers for many years. Most people use it to protect machine table tops, etc. It has good anti-friction and anti-corrosion properties as well.

[IMERC]

WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..

Yes, have to be careful and thorough removing it.

and flamable too...

[Don_Papenburg]

I cut a chunk of extruded poly foam board to the size of the table top , that keeps the cool air from the machined surface .   Do not leave doors open in the spring fall or anytime the humid air outside is warmer than inside.

[brdmkr]

I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy

Ditto to what Randy does.

And yes, I get moisture up through the concrete (water vapour) and no ventilation in the shop during spring/summer/early fall.

I reckon that makes 3 of us.  I have not found it too hard to remove, but you do have to get it off before running wood over it or it will mess with finishes.

[Warbird]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I was just moving things around in my shop, putting the snow plow on the truck and what have you, and noticed that the Mrs had put a piece of pressure treated wood on my saws table for storage.  I moved it off and it is very rusted underneath.  :(

I have some 00 steel wool and will be cleaning it today.  I will probably go with the "renaissance wax" Jasperfield mentioned.  Or something like it.

[cpkstudio]

You should be careful to use wax that does not conatain silicone as the silicone may also affect the finishing of your wood.  The original Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow can is what I use.

[Brad_bb]

Moisture and silicone...

If you can afford to keep your shop heated to at least 60 degrees, it will prevent temp swings through the dew point, which will cause condensation on anything metal, machines, tools, car parts.  This is a major cause of rust on shop stuff. 

The point about silicone is a good one.  Having started out doing car restoration, I learned early on that silicone was the enemy of any paint or finish work.  Bodyshop will usually not allow any silicone based products in their shops.  Once silicone gets on paint, it's very very difficult to get all of it off.  If you try to apply new paint, the paint will bead like water on oil.  It will also affect finishing on wood.  So the best bet is to keep those products out.  Many car tire dressings contain silicone, I believe WD40 does as well, or at least it has some of the same properties.  Silicone are tiny beads that act like ball bearing, which is why it can be such a great lubricant.  But those tiny beads are what makes it difficult to remove as well.

I was just cleaning up my table saw top the other day.  You can use fine scotchbrite pads, but what I found worked really well for light rust is SemiChrome metal polish.  It doesn't leave fine scratches that the scotchbrite might.  After polishing, definitely wax.  I use Meguire's yellow wax that I use for my cars because it's always nearby.  The wax not only helps protect, but lubricates the surface making the wood material slide better.

[bikedude73]

I read in a wood working mag use wax paper to rub all over table to keep from rusting......

[IMERC]

I read in a wood working mag use wax paper to rub all over table to keep from rusting......

that works...
butthe short cut is furniture paste wax...

[SwampDonkey]

I'm going to rub my saw down with it tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. It should also make it a lot slicker to saw material to.  ;D

[IMERC]

that it will...

just make sure there isn't rust on the top before ya do...

[SwampDonkey]

There isn't any rust per se. I've been actively sawing along since I'm in the shop daily in the winter. But, that sawdust you know is like water to steel, so I'll have to give it a good cleaning first. ;)

[tomsteve]

i have a heated shop, but it isnt heated all the time in the winter, which lately has been gettin down to the single digits. i also park my car in there. i have a ceiling fan that is on low at all times. the circulating air help greatly with the rust problem.

[Night Raider]

I see now they're starting to make table saws with granite tops so there is no rusting or warping, I wonder how long that idea will last.

[Larry]

Just thought...if you use wax like I do, put it on with a coarse Scotch Brite Pad...available at most auto parts stores.

[mike_van]

If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem I have is when it's been cold, then a high dew point warm air mass comes up from the south. It's like it's raining in there.  There's some science thing that says when the dewpoint is higher than the temp. of objects, water will condense there. Or something like that.

[SwampDonkey]

I would assume humidity is near 100 % for condensation to happen. The objects should be the same temp as the air temp I would think. Dew point would never be higher than the air temp. ;)

[Phorester]

How about using car wax on woodworking equipment and tools?

[OneWithWood]

I have tried a lot of things to prevent rust on the tabletop.  The best so far has been to clean it well, wax with a good furniture paste wax and then cover the top with some thin insulating material.  I use the thin blue board that is used under metal roofing.  Weight it down with some boards and you are good to go.

[OneWithWood]

and before someone asks...yes you take the blueboard off before using the saw  :D

[Don_Papenburg]

Even when it is cold?
















  I use the thicker stuff because it does not bend/break when set aside ,does not need to be weighted down.

[logwalker]

For long term rust prevention I use Fluid Film spray. I have a Powermatic 36" band saw that sits under cover but get wet all the time and I sprayed it a year ago and it still hasn't rusted. I was amazed. You can see it on the surface any longer but it still protects. It is not cheap but it is well worth the money. Joe

[Don_Papenburg]

I am not impressed with that stinky stuff.   I also got Beoshield , It did not seem to work as well  as the foam covers.

[Lud]

Rust and metal  being the topic.  I ran into something new to me and what do you think....
I delivered a surprise turned cherry plant stand to my car mechanic that was for his wife.  He was a bit flustered as he had nothing to reciprocate with and so he gave my little Escape a going over.

He showed me a little corrosion around the hinges and said that the new deicer they're spraying on the roads is going to rot the cars out even faster but to neutralize it , he found the best thing is something called
Marine Fogger[/size

Seems to be a good lubricant and sort of soaks in and leaves a film.  Might be good on cast iron tables, eh? 

I'm not a boater so I'd never heard of the stuff before.

Anyone familiar with the stuff?

[IMERC]

I see now they're starting to make table saws with granite tops so there is no rusting or warping, I wonder how long that idea will last.

that idea has been in use for a long time...

keep in mind the tops are fragile...

[IMERC]

If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem.........

is if that light bulb comes in contact with the sawdust in/unser those machines you will have a fire...

ever try to put out a fire in sawdust???

use a heating pad instead of a light bulb...

[submarinesailor]

I have been slowly be surely working on spraying the underside of my truck with this fairly new product from MASOIL:  http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx

I love the way it lubricates and than dries to a waxy film.

Bruce

[mike_van]

If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem.........

is if that light bulb comes in contact with the sawdust in/ubser those machines you will have a fire...

ever try to put out a fire in sawdust???

use a heating pad instead of a light bulb...

I would think that to be pretty obvious? No?     I guess not.

[Brad_bb]

The following is copied from a web page (http://www.ace.mmu.ac.uk/eae/weather/older/condensation.html) about weather.

"Condensation is not a matter of one particular temperature but of a difference between two. Condensation of water vapour occurs when the temperature of air is lowered to its dew point.

All air contains water vapour of varying quantities. The lower the air temperature, the smaller the maximum possible capacity for vapour. When air is cooled, relative humidity increases, until at a particular temperature, called the dew point, the air becomes saturated. Further cooling below the dew point will induce condensation of the excess water vapour.

The temperature of the dew point will depend upon the absolute content of water vapour, that is the absolute humidity, measured in g/m3 (grams per cubic metre). The dew point of humid air will be higher than the dew point of dry air. Both air temperature and absolute humidity will determine what type of condensation will occur when the air is cooled. If air in contact with the ground is cooled to its dew point, dew or frost will form, dew if the point is above 0°C, or frost if it is below 0°C. Cooling of a larger layer of air near to the ground may produce mist of fog, which freezes if the dew point is below 0°C. Air that is cooled to its dew point by rising and expansion will condense to form clouds. Above 0°C, small droplets of water are formed. Condensation may also result in ice crystals at temperature well below 0°C. When temperatures are near or a little below 0°C, supercooled water droplets can form."

So condensation on your tools occurs when the air temp rises faster than your tools and the temp difference between the two are sufficient, with a sufficient relative humidity, and thus the appropriate dew point is present to cause the condensation on the colder metal, or concrete, or other thermal mass.  That's why keeping your shop heated, or at least at a constant temp and humidity will prevent that temp difference and swing through the dew point.  When you go out and fire up the stove or portable heater for a bit, then leave and let it all cool down again, your creating temp swings that could cause more condensation than leaving it constantly cold or heated.  Insulation also helps reduce temps swings as well as refraining from opening doors and exchanging cold or more humid air.  All this is why I keep my shop heated to 63F.  Someday I'll build my new shop that is better insulated too, to reduce costs.

[SBOhio]

Has anyone using the paste wax had any problems with staining or finishing over any wax that would get on the wood?

[IMERC]

no...
use judiciously and seriouslt rub it out...

power buffer/polisher works real slick...