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Table saw rust

Started by oregonsawer, November 09, 2009, 12:03:48 PM

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SwampDonkey

I would assume humidity is near 100 % for condensation to happen. The objects should be the same temp as the air temp I would think. Dew point would never be higher than the air temp. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Phorester


How about using car wax on woodworking equipment and tools?

OneWithWood

I have tried a lot of things to prevent rust on the tabletop.  The best so far has been to clean it well, wax with a good furniture paste wax and then cover the top with some thin insulating material.  I use the thin blue board that is used under metal roofing.  Weight it down with some boards and you are good to go.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

OneWithWood

and before someone asks...yes you take the blueboard off before using the saw  :D
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Don_Papenburg

Even when it is cold?
















  I use the thicker stuff because it does not bend/break when set aside ,does not need to be weighted down.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

logwalker

For long term rust prevention I use Fluid Film spray. I have a Powermatic 36" band saw that sits under cover but get wet all the time and I sprayed it a year ago and it still hasn't rusted. I was amazed. You can see it on the surface any longer but it still protects. It is not cheap but it is well worth the money. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Don_Papenburg

I am not impressed with that stinky stuff.   I also got Beoshield , It did not seem to work as well  as the foam covers.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Lud

Rust and metal  being the topic.  I ran into something new to me and what do you think....
I delivered a surprise turned cherry plant stand to my car mechanic that was for his wife.  He was a bit flustered as he had nothing to reciprocate with and so he gave my little Escape a going over.

He showed me a little corrosion around the hinges and said that the new deicer they're spraying on the roads is going to rot the cars out even faster but to neutralize it , he found the best thing is something called
Marine Fogger[/size

Seems to be a good lubricant and sort of soaks in and leaves a film.  Might be good on cast iron tables, eh? 

I'm not a boater so I'd never heard of the stuff before.

Anyone familiar with the stuff?
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

IMERC

Quote from: Night Raider on December 18, 2009, 03:56:28 PM
I see now they're starting to make table saws with granite tops so there is no rusting or warping, I wonder how long that idea will last.

that idea has been in use for a long time...

keep in mind the tops are fragile...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

IMERC

Quote from: mike_van on December 21, 2009, 06:01:35 PM
If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem.........


is if that light bulb comes in contact with the sawdust in/unser those machines you will have a fire...

ever try to put out a fire in sawdust???

use a heating pad instead of a light bulb...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

submarinesailor

I have been slowly be surely working on spraying the underside of my truck with this fairly new product from MASOIL:  http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx

I love the way it lubricates and than dries to a waxy film.

Bruce

mike_van

Quote from: IMERC on December 25, 2009, 08:56:54 AM
Quote from: mike_van on December 21, 2009, 06:01:35 PM
If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem.........


is if that light bulb comes in contact with the sawdust in/ubser those machines you will have a fire...

ever try to put out a fire in sawdust???

use a heating pad instead of a light bulb...
I would think that to be pretty obvious? No?     I guess not.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

Brad_bb

The following is copied from a web page (http://www.ace.mmu.ac.uk/eae/weather/older/condensation.html) about weather.

"Condensation is not a matter of one particular temperature but of a difference between two. Condensation of water vapour occurs when the temperature of air is lowered to its dew point.

All air contains water vapour of varying quantities. The lower the air temperature, the smaller the maximum possible capacity for vapour. When air is cooled, relative humidity increases, until at a particular temperature, called the dew point, the air becomes saturated. Further cooling below the dew point will induce condensation of the excess water vapour.

The temperature of the dew point will depend upon the absolute content of water vapour, that is the absolute humidity, measured in g/m3 (grams per cubic metre). The dew point of humid air will be higher than the dew point of dry air. Both air temperature and absolute humidity will determine what type of condensation will occur when the air is cooled. If air in contact with the ground is cooled to its dew point, dew or frost will form, dew if the point is above 0°C, or frost if it is below 0°C. Cooling of a larger layer of air near to the ground may produce mist of fog, which freezes if the dew point is below 0°C. Air that is cooled to its dew point by rising and expansion will condense to form clouds. Above 0°C, small droplets of water are formed. Condensation may also result in ice crystals at temperature well below 0°C. When temperatures are near or a little below 0°C, supercooled water droplets can form."

So condensation on your tools occurs when the air temp rises faster than your tools and the temp difference between the two are sufficient, with a sufficient relative humidity, and thus the appropriate dew point is present to cause the condensation on the colder metal, or concrete, or other thermal mass.  That's why keeping your shop heated, or at least at a constant temp and humidity will prevent that temp difference and swing through the dew point.  When you go out and fire up the stove or portable heater for a bit, then leave and let it all cool down again, your creating temp swings that could cause more condensation than leaving it constantly cold or heated.  Insulation also helps reduce temps swings as well as refraining from opening doors and exchanging cold or more humid air.  All this is why I keep my shop heated to 63F.  Someday I'll build my new shop that is better insulated too, to reduce costs.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

SBOhio

Has anyone using the paste wax had any problems with staining or finishing over any wax that would get on the wood?

IMERC

no...
use judiciously and seriouslt rub it out...

power buffer/polisher works real slick...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

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