first time saw buyer need help with decision please

[xcrmk]

  I need a saw to cut between 5-10 cord of wood per year as well a scrubbing out some bush. Was looking at a husky 455/460 rancher. Went to the only dealer we have in town who sells husky and jonsered. All he had was a jony 2145s for $520 canadian. I can get the 460 rancher for around $560 canadian. The dealer has 2 used saw's in very good condition, both around 2 years old. One is a husky 359 with a 20" bar for $450 and the other is a jonsered 2156c with a 16" bar for $400. I would change the 16" to a 20" if the jony is the one I were to buy. He's told me to take the saw's for the afternoon and put them through there paces. Would appreciate any info you guy's have to offer and anything that I should look out for if I purchase one of  the used saw's. THANKS IN ADVANCE

[Cut4fun]

I would take the used ones and check them out. Thats just me. I would really check the 2156 then 359.  Good Luck.  :P

[jteneyck]

For 5 - 10 cords per year you don't need a lot of saw, and the Husky 455/460 would be appropriate.  You can buy one on-line or at many home center type places, at least in the US.  If you are mechanically inclined and trust the local dealer to stear you straight, then the 359 also would meet your needs (maybe the other, too, I just don't know anything about Jonsered).  But personally, I wouldn't buy a used saw as my first saw.  I would buy a new saw from a local dealer with a good reputation.   

[Stephen1]

I agree if it is your 1st saw buy the new saw, it really isn't that much of a difference in price. Ask me how I know.

[xcrmk]

 Stephen 1 did you have a bad experience buying a new saw. The dealer I'm buying from is somewhat of a friend. Just a quick going over of the used saw's the jony looks almost like new and the husky not quite as nice as the jony. He will give me a 6 month warranty on either the 359 or 2156. still leaning towards new. I've been using my dad's jony off and on since 1992 and it still runs great.

[zopi]

My experience...saws are like peanuts...can't eat just one. (What? I was hungry..)

I have found it best to have a medium sized saw...290-361 Sthil...I have a 660 as well, but that is just me...the Husky is a good saw if you have service folks close..

But I always want to have a smaller saw kicking around as well..180c Stihl...for falling small trees and limbing, pruning etc...the lightweight saw is easier to carry, uses less fuel, and won't wear on you as much...try this...go get a new 455 and spend two solid hours falling, limbing and bucking with it...tired, eh?

Then do the same thing with a goos quality lightweight saw..I don't know what the equivalent is in Husky..but you'll note a huge difference in how much energy you have left to load the pickup...or let the SO take you to dinner for being good and fetching wood...<G>

Then in a couple years you'll want one of those nifty high revving arborist saws...then you'll watch timbersports once and want a BHCS (Big Honkin' Chain Saw)...

It never ends.

Fun tho'...Luck!

[chainsawr]

I wouldn't recomend the 455/460.  They seem to be plauged with problems.  I get a lot in here (near new) with all kinds of issues.  If you ask me, out of the saws your dealer has the Jons is probably the one to get.

[JohnG28]

Isnt a 2156 the same as a Husky 357xp?  I might be wrong, as Im not really familiar with Jonsered, but if it is, thats probably the saw to go with.

[John Mc]

Isnt a 2156 the same as a Husky 357xp?  I might be wrong, as Im not really familiar with Jonsered, but if it is, thats probably the saw to go with.

Yes, the 2156 is the Jonsered sister saw to the Husky 357XP. I own a 357 and really like it. I don't lnow Jonsered pricing, but the Husky 357XP goes for around $700 (US$) new.

The 359 is a little less saw than the 2156/357, but still a very solid one. Definitely a step up from the 460. I've seen a 359 new for $560 (US$) with a 20" bar.

I would not be in a rush to swap the 16" bar for a 20 on the 357. It will handle it fine, but unless you are going to be doing a lot of cutting of greater than 15" or so, why carry the extra weight? So folks go bigger so they don't have to bend over as much when limbing, but I've found this to be a false benefit. Working out at the end of a longer bar actually puts more strain on your back and arms. If you don't really need it, try out the 16" bar for a while. You can always move up to a bigger bar later.

[TessiersFarm]

I don't know much about those saws but my first saw was used and I am still running it 18 years later.  I don't use it much because of the other saws I own.  I also recommend trying out the 16" Bar.  I run a 16" bar on a 85cc stihl and I get a lot of funny looks but it is real comfortable for me.  I also have a 24" bar for the same saw and I seldom use it.  I run 18" bars on my 036's and I wouldn't want much longer than that except for a specific job.  I guess I never did try a 20" bar.

[JohnG28]

Thanks JohnMc...that being said Id say that the Jons is the way to go, especially if its in good condition.  A pro saw is nice, and for light work such as this it should last a long time.  Take it for a week like the guy offered, see what you think.

[thecfarm]

TessiersFarm,do you live on the West Ridge Road? Saw Tessier on a mail box and maybe cabinet work? Went up to check out Cedarosen Kennel on that road.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

For any saw i have brought in the past ive got them new  ;) with what your aiming to do with it  anything in the 45 to 60cc range will work fine and either of the second hand saws will be good chiose  seeing as your getting a 6 month waranty Mate  ;) I only get 3 months with mine but they all last longer than that  ;) Like dad says you dont realy need the warranty with a Good Saw  ;) :D ;D ;D 8) 8)

ive still got my 1st saw a 2055 thats still runing well at about 15/16 yo and did about 15+ log homes aswell as alot of other work with it  Mate  ;)  ;D ;D 8) 8) i just need to get anew handel for it  ;)

ive had my 359 for 4 years now and have only had to rebuild the carby only afew months ago its done a power of work including over 80 cords of firewood and afew hundred ton of pine logging and alot of trimming and docking work around the mill yard  ;) ;D 8) the thing that sold me on it in the first place was that its got the highest rpm and touque band out of most top brands  at the tme  ;)

I have owned Jonsereds in the past and the 2145s look a good saw and at that price will do all you will ask of it Mate  ;) and ive had 2050,2055 and two 2095s over the years and never had any dramas with them apart from normal maintanace  ;)

With bar lengths I run 18" and 24" inch bars on the 359 bare in mind though that im dropping trees and doing firewood atm in dia upto 48" like what has been said Im also one of those Blokes who dosent like carting around anymore saw than i need to a 16" bar will do everything you need to dock upto 32" Mate  ;)  ;D ;D 8) 8)

Good luck with your decision and welcome to the Forum Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8)

Regards Chris

[John Mc]

Note: Cut4Fun has posted on several occasions about a service bulletin applicable to the 359 and the 357XP (sister saw to the Jonsered 2156 - if it applies to the 357, it probably also applies to the 2156).

Basically, if the saw has a black plastic clamp on the intake right near the cylinder, that's the problem style which can cause an induction air leak (not good for the saw). If the clamp is metal, then you don't need to worry about it. I think you can see this if you remove the cover over the air filter (and maybe the air filter as well?) you have to look down between the carb and the cylinder. Someone more familiar with this can probably tell you for sure the easiest way to see it.

I THINK it was sometime in 2006 that they started incorporating the change in new saws coming from the factory.

Some people run with the old style clamp and never have a problem. Some replace it just to be on the safe side, Some wait until they notice a problem (saw runs lean, and may start to "scream" at full throttle).

This is not meant to scare you away from the saw. It's not terribly expensive to replace the part. It may give you some ammunition to negotiate the price down a bit, or if it's a dealer, consider asking him to replace it (maybe for parts cost only?)

John Mc