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Making Siding for Barn?

Started by luke, October 27, 2003, 09:46:48 PM

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luke

We are thinking about building a 30'x40'x12'  "pole barn". The lumber we have thought about using for the siding is KD Yellow Poplar. Would a shaper and some v-groove carbide bits, do the job, for making about 2,000 board feet of barn siding?

 V-Paneling Cutter PC-19-010  
1-1/4 inch bore, carbide tipped, use with 3/4 - 1 inch material
Checking into grade sawing, building a dry kiln and moulding machines.

J_T

Around here they use board and batten . We lazey 8)
Jim Holloway

solidwoods

Hi luke.
I think T&G edges will rot faster than Ship Lap with Batten.
Poplar is OK but It's no White Oak, most other Oaks, Hemlock.  I think I would use SYP and have it pressure treated ($.10 to .15 bf) , before using Poplar.  
But since it is kiln dried ??? I guess it's what you have readily on hand.
And keep it away from the ground if possible..
JIM
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

MemphisLogger

I vote for plank and batten but using poplar I'd go for some deep eaves and some treated wood for a skirt--don't let that tulip wood touch the ground, it'll get et in no time!

Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Don P

But...poplar makes excellent siding if kept dry. The grainery where I'm working is weatherboarded in 3/4 x 6 poplar, unfinished...from the 1860's, as are many of the local homes of that period.
I was preparing today some poplar that was sawn 60 years ago. It was stickered in a barn to dry and was intended for drop lap, the round tuits never came round  :D. The powderpost beetles had been tuit so I gave it a libation of borates and will apply a water repellant finish.
I've got the 2 piece set of router v-groove T&G bits, used them for making soffits. I had a devil of a time getting the T into the G...too tight a fit. Finally made a fence on the handheld router and with a straight bit shaved a little of the backside of the T to let it slip in easier.  

luke

Don.P,

true, poplar has been used for siding for many years. I painted a early 1900's two story Victorian home that had poplar beveled siding on it. And yes keep it dry, a nice sized overhang, with borate for the bugs, and wood preservative, should make it last a while longer. The reason I suggested tonge & groove or v-groove is, I have seen some local sheds, with board and batten siding on them, and they look cheap. If I build a pole barn, I want it to "increase" the value of my property, so that when I have it appraised, it will appraise for more money.

I know that the "deluxe" pole barn package you can buy from 84 lumber will look good with the painted steel, it would cost about $10,000.00 for a deluxe 30'x40'x12' with insulation and electrical wiring. I wonder which pole barn would raise the "value" of your property more, the one from 84 lumber, or one hand custom built?
Checking into grade sawing, building a dry kiln and moulding machines.

solidwoods

Oh yes
Metal makes a nice side also.  Also Used/repainted.
Fire proof also,,helps stop fire spread like from a grass fire.
JIM
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

mitch

Luke,
I agree with the previous posts...tongue and groove will just trap moisture. All of my buildings are board and batten. Rough sawed with a circular mill


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