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Author Topic: Stihl Guide Bars  (Read 13045 times)

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Offline mpuste

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Stihl Guide Bars
« on: December 09, 2010, 09:28:15 PM »
I would appreciate an education on the pros and cons of the various Stihl guide bars (ES, E, E std, and E light) and any information that can help me when selecting replacement bars for my 021 and 361.

Thanks.

Offline Kevin

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2010, 02:49:46 PM »

Offline mpuste

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2010, 09:23:36 AM »
I read that brochure from Stihl before posting and didn't find the information specific enough to understand when one bar design might be better than another.  That's where the collective experience of this forum is valuable.  I also searched previous threads and gathered from them that for non-commercial users like myself there is probably not a significant difference between the ES and E standard rollomatic bars and that I should avoid the Duromatic bars.  I'll go with that unless I receive any more responses to my original post.

Thanks.

Offline Kevin

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2010, 09:39:50 AM »
It's easier to match the bar to the task.
It boils down to what you're doing with it and how much you are willing to spend.

Offline mpuste

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2010, 10:34:20 AM »
My primary use is to convert midwest hardwoods into firewood.  I am cutting dead, deformed, and undesirable trees.  Felling, limbing, and blocking into 18" chunks.  Bar lengths from 16-20 inches.

Offline mpuste

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 10:40:15 AM »
My primary use is to convert midwest hardwoods into firewood.  I am cutting dead, deformed, and undesirable trees.  Felling, limbing, and blocking into 18" chunks.  Bar lengths from 16-20 inches.
...forgot to add that we burn 5-7 cords every winter.

Offline chevytaHOE5674

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2010, 10:57:53 AM »
The ES has a replaceable roller tip (I usually go through 2-3 tips before the rails of the bar are shot), and is one solid piece so it is more stiff and harder.

The E bar is laminated and has a non-replaceable roller tip, so it will not be as stiff and when the tip wears out you through it away.

The duramatic don't have a roller tip at all IIRC. Good for dirty cutting and such where a roller bearing would wear out fast.

The E Light has an insert cut out of it which is replaced with lighter weight material. So they are lighter but also pretty easy to bend.

Offline Rocky_J

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2010, 11:16:35 AM »
I've always run ES bars on my Stihls, but I have never replaced a tip in over 25 years of cutting. As an urban arborist the bars just don't have the same work environment as a logger or firewood cutter. I can dress a bar as well as anyone, but it usually wears a good size dip right behind the tip and usually gets tweaked long before the tip ever fails. I've only had 2 tip failures in my life, both of those on laminated bars so they weren't replaceable anyway. I've only seen replacement tips in catalogs.

The lightweight bars are great for arborist use. I use them on my 200T climbing saw. They are expensive but worth it for me. They are only available in 12, 14 and 16 inch lengths and only for 3/8 lo pro chain. My 14" bar costs almost $60.

Offline beenthere

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2010, 01:02:43 PM »
My primary use is to convert midwest hardwoods into firewood.  I am cutting dead, deformed, and undesirable trees.  Felling, limbing, and blocking into 18" chunks.  Bar lengths from 16-20 inches.

Your wood cutting is pretty close to what mine is of late, year in and year out.

I have a 20" bar (roller nose, no replacement) on an MS361. Great for felling and IMO very good for limbing and bucking.

Have only ever had a 20" bar, and the old saw (Stihl 041, '75) came with a Windsor bar, replaceble roller nose tip. Never replaced it or the bar, but have retired that saw now (recently added a new 20" bar and chain from Bailey's) only for call to combat if the 361 gets stuck. In 6 years, haven't had a call for the 041 so it only gets minimal drill exercise.
south central Wisconsin
 It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Offline Rocky_J

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2010, 04:07:21 PM »
You guys that run the same bar for years and years and years, do you ever change the drive sprocket on your saws? Or do you run it until the chain wears through the sprocket and chews into the driveshaft?

Offline chevytaHOE5674

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2010, 04:57:48 PM »
I replace rim sprockets about twice for every sprocket tip I wear out.

Offline barbender

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2010, 07:27:44 PM »
I've never replaced a rim sprocket or seen one wear through, but I don't use my saws every day.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline mpuste

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2010, 07:42:09 PM »
Is there an advantage with the solid bar for people who pinch their bars more often than they care to admit?  Usually happens when cutting a blow down or hung tree.  I don't think I've actually bent a bar doing this but I worry about damaging the channel that the chain rides in.

Offline beenthere

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2010, 08:01:18 PM »
You guys that run the same bar for years and years and years, do you ever change the drive sprocket on your saws? Or do you run it until the chain wears through the sprocket and chews into the driveshaft?

I replace the drive sprocket every time I buy two new chains. That was suggested to me when I bought the saw, and for better or worse, have done that ever since. Flip the bar when I switch between the chains. Joint the bar every other year, or when I buy new chains and a sprocket.  :)
south central Wisconsin
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Offline Ed

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2010, 11:41:21 PM »
You guys that run the same bar for years and years and years, do you ever change the drive sprocket on your saws? Or do you run it until the chain wears through the sprocket and chews into the driveshaft?

LOL...my dad usually runs the rim sprockets on his 020's until the chain ceases to move.

Ed


Offline SawTroll

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2010, 05:31:19 PM »
You guys that run the same bar for years and years and years, do you ever change the drive sprocket on your saws? Or do you run it until the chain wears through the sprocket and chews into the driveshaft?
[/quote

Yes, I do - but I have more than one bar for most saws, so those last quite long.   :)

I know from posts on the different saw forums that many don't though...... ::)
Information collector.

Offline stump farmer

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Re: Stihl Guide Bars
« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2010, 02:51:43 PM »
I've run Rollomatic ES for years and have been happy. Tough bar. What's important is that the oiler is functioning properly, chain sharpened correctly so it cuts straight and pulls itself into the cut and that chain tension is correct. If these things are not correct they tend to work together against you resulting in premature wear on the bar, sprocket and chain. Seen sprockets break apart due to operators repeatedly pushing the saw through rounds and into the dirt. The wear rate on parts that have picked up sand is impressive not to mention expensive.
 
If you're picking out cull logs that have been skidded they will most likely be dirty so maybe have a dedicated bar-sprocket-chain set for dirty cuts. This also works well for flushing stumps where the bark has picked up dirt.

If possible use one bar/sprocket/chain combo that works for you. Different brand bars, even in the same length, can require different drive link counts.


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