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Author Topic: E Classic operating temperature  (Read 10543 times)

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Offline upsnake

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Re: E Classic operating temperature
« Reply #60 on: January 21, 2011, 08:33:09 PM »
Good News: The dealer is coming out tomorrow with a new control panel.  8)

Bad news: I have to shut the boiler down. :( The dealer said some of the thermostatic mixing valves had the wrong temperature set point in them. Instead of being 150 they were 180. so he is going to check that, but to do that we have to stop the flow of water to the valve.

My system is designed where i cal easily stop the flow after the valve, but i only have a shut off on the supply line before the valve. So i think i am going to have to top it there, and then at the stove for the return line, then have it drain our at my HX to get the return line empty. Grrrrrrrrrrr

I am one more valve away from making that a painless spot to stop the flow of water too. Oh well.

I will let you know how it goes. Hahah

Offline horseman 2

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Re: E Classic operating temperature
« Reply #61 on: January 27, 2011, 09:08:11 AM »
  Hi guys,
  Boiler temperature are set according to what you are using to deliver heat in the house.
  Copper baseboard reacts the fastest in heating and also cools the quickest so they run hotter water in them. up to 195
  Cast iron holds the heat longer and takes a lot longer to cool so they run radiators and base board a little cooler up to 185
  In floor heat reacts the slowest so they run a mixing valve {90 to 105)they still need to run high enough temp. to heat hot water. and the rate of exchange is always directly related to boiler temp.
  I run my classic 165 ti 185.
  Have you seen the new wood loader? it fits in the door and lets you put full length and large diameter wood in your outdoor boiler.   :)

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