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Author Topic: Hardwood Flooring  (Read 1963 times)

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Offline ahlkey

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Hardwood Flooring
« on: February 09, 2011, 02:09:31 PM »
Just to be clear I thought I would list the process I plan to take on doing some flooring this spring.  The previous topic on flooring and the search feature were very helpful. I have all the equipment in my woodshop so was not planning on buying anything new.   This would be my first flooring project and would be using Hickory (bitternut). I aslo plan to do paneling as well with Red Pine but in that case it would be a v-groove.  How does this look---- Have I missed anything or would you recommend I do it differently.  All the flooring and paneling would be for my cabin and my relatives places.  Overall maybe 2,000 board feet total.  My not be the fastest process but will it get the job done?

1.   4/4 lumber on Sawmill - lengths 8, 10, or 12ft
2.   Air dry lumber down to 20% moisture content
3.   Kiln Dry lumber down to 6% moisture content
4.   Reject any lumber that doesn't meet grade.
5.   Use Jointer to get one straight edge - one to two passes as necessary
6.   Use Bandsaw to cut to desired width of 4, 6, and 8 inches
7.   Cut out any knots, defects, or warping and cut to proper flooring lengths.
8.   Joint one flat side of board
9.   Use planner to get to desired 3/4 thickness with multiple passes
10.   Cut T & G or V-Groove plus back relief on Shaper with/Powerfeed
11.   After installation some power sanding

Offline jdtuttle

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2011, 07:47:26 PM »
Looks good, but #4 I wouldn't worry about. The lower grade lumber brings alot of character to a floor.
jim
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Offline Dodgy Loner

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2011, 07:54:54 PM »
I would suggest a few changes to your plan:

First, why would you want to cull any lumber because of grade? I find flooring to be an excellent application for low-grade lumber, since most of the defect can be removed by using random lengths and widths. The first step after drying should be to cut out any defects and reduce the length of your boards to a manageable size. Also, you would be better off face-jointing and planing the boards before edge-jointing and ripping to width. I prefer to rip on a tablesaw, but if a bandsaw is your preference, and you can do it accurately, I don't see any problems with that.
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Offline Tullivor

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2011, 08:15:02 PM »
Ahlkey, your plan sounds good to me.  I am a little surprised you would cut that much lumber with a bandsaw to edge, but hey if it works then good stuff.  If you don't mind me asking, what type of t&g bit do you use on your shaper?

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2011, 08:40:26 PM »
Also, you would be better off face-jointing and planing the boards before edge-jointing and ripping to width.

I was thinking the same thing.  If the faces of your boards aren't flat, you can't get a nice square edge on the jointer.

Offline ahlkey

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2011, 10:30:45 PM »
It makes sense to do the face jointing and planing first.  I also agree that a lot of the low grade lumber can be good flooring but I have one relative who is very particular with the look.  I have used the bandsaw effectively but with higher volumes will probably switch to the tablesaw as suggested

Thanks for all the advice.

Offline west penn

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2011, 09:53:10 AM »

   Most times we will
      1  Flatten it on the jointer
      2  plane it to thickness
      3  joint one edge
      4  rip to width
      5   t& groove
      6   cut out unwanted defects
    I think you will have less handling labor this way if you are set up to handle  the longer lengths

Offline Eljay

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2011, 07:48:40 PM »
ahlkey,
I followed the procedure you outlined to make my flooring from white ash with the following exceptions:

1- After kiln drying to 6%, I conditioned the wood using steam and brought the moisture back to 8%
2. I had almost no drying defects so I just planed the boards rather than face jointing.
3. After edge jointing, I ripped to width on a table saw.
4. I did not relieve the back side and after 15 years the floor has remained stable.

I made enough flooring for three large rooms. It would have been very difficult to maintain quality without a power feeder on the shaper for the T&G.

Offline woodmills1

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Re: Hardwood Flooring
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2011, 07:50:40 PM »
I like to plane once first

then joint one edge


then rip to close

I use table saw to rip


once I pre sort to possible width  I am much like what you have written

also I set up 2 table saws with one at a 1 inch cut to take the wane or the curve out of those nasty boards
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM


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