Author Topic: Woodmizer voltage drop (Read 3863 times)

bandmiller2 · « **on:** February 16, 2011, 07:10:25 AM »

The only mizer I've ever operated was an LT-70 three phase with the power of the holy grid behind it.Do you portable sawyers ever have trouble with low voltage affecting the computer or outher motor functions.?In outher words can the alternator keep up with all the mills motors.Would an accurate automotive volt meter be a good addition to a mill. Frank C.

sparks · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2011, 08:48:39 AM »

A digital voltmeter is always a good to have incase you ever have electrical issues. The alternator is sized to handle all the options we have for the mill. Having the correct battery is the key. If the plate size of the battery is not correct then the battery will not last which can overwork the alternator.

Chuck White · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2011, 08:49:24 AM »

I put an automotive volt gauge on my LT40HDG24 and I can watch the voltage fluctuate a little, depending on what I'm doing with the mill at the time!

The alternator on my mill keeps up with the electrical needs pretty well.

I've never had to wait for the voltage to build up!

Magicman · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2011, 09:52:06 PM »

I've never been aware of a voltage problem.

LeeB · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2011, 11:24:32 AM »

Only voltage problem I ever had was a dead battery with the head all the way down in tow position. Sure does make it hard to chane out that way.

customsawyer · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2011, 07:49:09 PM »

The only time I can say that I had trouble is when you are doing all oversized logs and you over work the hyd. it will shorten the life of the battery and the alt. but if you are doing average sized logs it will do fine.

woodmills1 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2011, 08:27:08 PM »

I am square with ya, the only problem is dead battery with the head down.

only twice happened................

..........first WM LT40) bought in 95

once with it and once on the 70 both .......battery gone

LOVE the woodmizerway

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2011, 07:18:26 AM »

I would think an installed volt gauge, measuring at the right place, would be very useful for watching the condition of the battery. My understanding is that the voltage maintained by the battery under heavy load is indicative of its condition. For example I once had Wood-Mizer electrical support instruct me to measure the system voltage when the hydraulic pumps were actuated and pushing against a full load, I think it was the horizontal clamp head after it had travelled all the way over to the left. The voltage drop was too much (I forget the number), and they said that indicated the battery needed to be replaced. I think (not sure) that the original problem was Accuset cutting out too frequently, and this fixed it. If you had a volt gauge constantly on-board, you could regularly watch such things.

pa_of_6 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2011, 10:34:39 AM »

terrifictimbersllc

You are correct with what you said about the first generation Accuset cutting out with the voltage drop.

When the voltage dropped below a certian level, the accuset would come up with an undervoltage error.

This would sometimes happen momentarilly when you would work some electrical function on the mill and the altenator wasnt charging at that time or the engine was at idle. It was only a bump in the voltage for less than a second, but enough for the accuset to come up with an error.

Woodmizer did "fix" the problem by supplying a capacitor that would discharge when the voltage dropped that little bit, which would allow the accuset to be satisfied with its required 12 volts.

I think that the accuset 2 comes from the factory with the capacitor installed and also has a nifty reset button if an undervoltage does occur which resets and resumes the operation.

If you ever have a dead battery when the head is down, just use your jumper cables directly on the power head motor terminals. Be sure to put the cables on the terminals first then to the battery. If done the other way you have a chance of sparking that could mess up the threads on the motor terminals.

This is easy to do on the LT70 because you do not have to remove a sheild...unfortuneatly not so easy on the LT40. The LT40 has a sheild over the head motor.

Also, if the motor is turning the wrong way...switch leads on the battery. Changing polarity on a DC motor changes direction....but you all know that.

LeeB · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2011, 11:11:31 AM »

I thought I remebered one lead being for up and one for down with both being hot and the motor being grounded to the frame on the 40. Could be wrong though.

pa_of_6 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2011, 01:47:24 PM »

LeeB

The only way to reverse a DC motor is to reverse polarity.

Even if you look at the drum switches that are used in the woodmizer mills, you will see that they are wires so they can attain reverse polarity

PS..Look at the motor terminals, both are insulated so that you can have either as ground, otherwise you will short out.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #11 on:** February 20, 2011, 08:51:40 AM »

On my LT30HDG24 if I had a dead battery and the head was down, I'd hook the battery charger to the hot lead on the alternator to move the head up so that I could get access to the battery box.....
but that's just me.....
Luckily it has never happened to me.....

In this cold weather, I shut my mill off with the head up and it is high enough to get to the battery box and remove the cover.

Jim Rogers

Chuck White · « **Reply #12 on:** February 20, 2011, 10:38:52 AM »

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on February 20, 2011, 08:51:40 AM

On my LT30HDG24 if I had a dead battery and the head was down, I'd hook the battery charger to the hot lead on the alternator to move the head up so that I could get access to the battery box.....
but that's just me.....
Luckily it has never happened to me.....

In this cold weather, I shut my mill off with the head up and it is high enough to get to the battery box and remove the cover.

Jim Rogers

I've done both of these Jim!
Easy access to the hot wire on the alternator and a ground!
Also if you leave the head up, then, access to the battery box is unlimited!
When I leave the head up, I always put a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 under the outer end and rest it on the far "main" bunk!
I have taken the battery cover off with the head all the way down! Not a lot of clearance there, but it is doable!

customsawyer · « **Reply #13 on:** February 20, 2011, 12:39:10 PM »

There is a small rod in the fuse box beside the battery box that will let you access the terminals of the fuses so you can raise the head if you need to.

trapper · « **Reply #14 on:** February 20, 2011, 06:12:45 PM »

when my voltage regular was shot. I wired a short polorized connector to the battery and just a bit out of the battery box. That way I could hook up a battery maintainer with out removing the battery cover. It is not in the way so I left it in just in case I left the key on.

Magicman · « **Reply #15 on:** February 20, 2011, 08:58:01 PM »

I've had a trailer connector wired out of mine for years. I built an adapter so I can plug my "cigarette lighter" air compressor, flood light or a battery charger into it. It has been quiet handy.

The top two connections are negative and the bottom two are positive.

Gilman · « **Reply #16 on:** February 21, 2011, 12:18:37 AM »

I ruined a battery from fast processing lots of small logs once. Soon after that I smoked an alternator from hydraulically moving large logs. Both times I had the Accuset give me Low Voltage faults.

sparks · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2011, 02:14:24 PM »

If you're going to raise the head with jumper cables or run the head forward or backwards with jumper cables make sure you remove the wires from the motors. If you do not remove them you risk the chance of damaging the circuit board for the up down and the power feed board. Back feeding is not good.

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Author Topic: Woodmizer voltage drop (Read 3863 times)

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