Cabin Ideas - help!

MtnDoo · March 29, 2010, 07:34:48 PM

nas -

. If it were a kayak maybe.
We have a 5 & 7yr old and take them around on Lake Irwin in the summers.

;-)

SPIKER · March 29, 2010, 08:54:00 PM

The Spray foam is VERY expensive about 4 or 5 times regular insulation for the Open Cell type which can absorb some water, the closed cell stuff is about 10 times the price of regular insulation but is best stuff going. I would first off tsalk to local insulation people who do this, if the 12K foot mark is true then there might be some expansion issues ??? The guy I talked to suggested 2 parts one part outside walls with closed cell one or 2 inches thick then overspray with open cell to full depth. I liked this idea and was thinking of using the reflective bubble type stuff stuffed in between the foam layers stuffed in as 1st layer was sprayed wet and will stick to it then 2nd layer over top of the foil bubble stuff which will be unbelievable good stuff..

getting cabin up off ground is good idea too, is there avalanche chances?

base frame footings need to be deep & secure, make footer walls easy to "breakaway" in case there is one... not sure about perm- frost or frost depth issues there the anchors needs to be below this.
wide overhangs to get the snow away from the base as well. not sure if you can add a SLIDE during winter to get the snow out away from the base/walls better or not. This might help too otherwise heavy insulation under floor is probably a waste as it would be sealed up by snow depth most of the time. standard floor construction with some added insulation caution and such. the sealed space will warm well.

depending on mountain side, you should look at passive heat gains and roof ventings for summer cooling If you can get south or west exposure then you can take advantage of solar heat gain and even some other green tech.

mark M

MtnDoo · March 29, 2010, 09:24:22 PM

Mark,

Ironically, since we have such deep snowpack, we rarely have the ground freeze. 6-10' of snow works as an insulator. No frost heave! County requires 36" cover, but it's more structural than for frost in practice. You can dig a snow pit to the ground mid-winter, and you'll find dry soil until spring melts come. Surface melt is absorbed by mid-pack layers, and freezes at night. The basement is a poured footer, Nudura ICF walls, and a poured concrete slab for the basement floor with PEX tubes for radiant heat in the future. We put both the foil bubble wrap and 2" of foam boards under the slab.

We do not have any chance of avalanche at this site, slope is 18deg and most aves occur from 30-50deg slopes. Some homes around us are built on piers, but then end up with many issues. If you build in an avalanche zone, your house will be gone. I've seen this happen - it is sad and dangerous if/when it happens. If you can budget for and get a concrete truck to your site, you'll be much happier with a sealed, poured perimeter foundation.

One thing I would do differently if I had to do it again is the roof pitch and building orientation! I'd turn the building 90deg either way, preserve the 12-12 pitch, and put the porch roof on the short gable end. The roof does not shed snow on either side. The south side (you're looking at) typically holds snow due to the porch roof, and the north side rarely sheds snow due to the fact that it is north facing. Yes, 5'+ on a 12-12 would not slide!! Stuck like concrete. This was the biggest mistake in the whole project. Always put the 12-12 roof pitch facing south, and 10deg east!!! ....and have no snowshed traps in the roofline. Lastly, next time we won't do rusty metal, we'll do a galvanized corrugated metal roof with a glazing of Crisco oil.

I'm working on designing a home now, and these were lessons painfully learned!

MD.

MtnDoo · May 20, 2012, 11:15:12 PM

Well, as life changes. The cabin in Colorado is now for sale.

Listed at www.LakeIrwin.com

Thx for all of the help - it was a learning experience, and a good one!

On to build a house for the family.

Corey..