Jonsereds 621 Project Saw ....question is when..

SawTroll · March 14, 2011, 03:08:29 PM

Cool and nice looking saw! 8) 8)

Hard to understand what happened to that cylinder.... ???

Btw, it is not one of the oldest 621s, unless some of the parts are replacements.

HolmenTree · March 14, 2011, 03:09:45 PM

Quote from: weimedog on March 14, 2011, 01:21:05 PM
Certainly a nice looking and well put together saw! Where will it fit with the Husqvarna's power wise? Was it a match of a 61 Rancher? The 621 for most everything and the 920 for backup and big work. Sort of how I've run the 455 Husqvarna with other big saws for backup the last couple of years. Looking forward to this one.

That good lookin saw sure brings back memories. Take a look on Chainsaw Collecters Corner and see what a new looking 621, 80 and 111 looks like, they even have a complete PDF for the 621.

Power wise? Yes the 621 is a match for the 61 rancher, not as much rpm as the 61 but has more torque then the Husky. Comparing the 621 to the 455 Husqvarna you may cut more wood in a day with the 621, but your hands will notice the difference in vibration. The 455 has a much better anti-vibe system, but then if gel palmed anti vibe gloves were worn the 621 would be a real smooth runner.

Willard.

HolmenTree · March 14, 2011, 03:35:29 PM

That 621 will run for a man's lifetime. Stock up on carb kits, spark plugs, O-rings for the oiler, points and condensers, rewind springs, starter pawl springs, rings , piston, crank and con rod bearings with seals.

If yours still has the original fuel filter you won't need a replacement ,just take it apart and clean it. Little well built features like the fuel filter is what makes the 621 one of the best "solid built" saws ever made.

Willard.

Smurf · March 14, 2011, 06:16:39 PM

Spike not to Hijack the Thread but left you a note on the Chainsaw buying thread . As to how you rate the New Rancher 460 for long term service . My Son picked one up last mth and I gave it a workout and was impressed . I currently run a MS-361 and for the dollar feel my Son made a sound investment ? Thanks and sorry for any inconvenience .

weimedog · March 15, 2011, 01:44:04 PM

Found this bar in the pile. It looks to be a "solid" (vs. laminate) bar with a replaceable sprocket nose. 16inch also looks to be .58 gauge. The Oregon number is 168XXXD024. Also the drive sprocket on the saw is a 8 tooth 3/8. So...question to the Pro's...is it worth getting a nice chain for this bar and giving it a paint job? Or should I find a .050 gauge possible better option and go to a 7 tooth drive sprocket?

Spike60 · March 15, 2011, 02:24:45 PM

D024 is indeed the 10mm Jonsered application. Your luck is holding pretty good with this project!!

We should try these saws with both the 7 and 8 pin rims and compare the results.

weimedog · March 15, 2011, 04:18:51 PM

With a loop of Oregon 73LGX.....might make sense for someone to run thru what the 72, 73, and 75 prefixes to oregon chain are all about! You would think .050,.058,.063 would make more sense!

HolmenTree · March 15, 2011, 05:06:21 PM

Quote from: weimedog on March 15, 2011, 01:44:04 PM
Found this bar in the pile. It looks to be a "solid" (vs. laminate) bar with a replaceable sprocket nose. 16inch also looks to be .58 gauge. The Oregon number is 168XXXD024. Also the drive sprocket on the saw is a 8 tooth 3/8. So...question to the Pro's...is it worth getting a nice chain for this bar and giving it a paint job? Or should I find a .050 gauge possible better option and go to a 7 tooth drive sprocket?

Run the 8 t rim, the 621 has good torque but lower in the rpm department.
7 t would be too slow limbing and cutting small stuff.

Willard.

weimedog · March 16, 2011, 11:21:25 AM

Just a tangent about chain gauge etc..WHY does one choose say an .050 chain vs. a .063 or a .058 vs. anything else? I'e sort of been going on the assumption it has been driven by the manufacturers for example many of the Husqvarna/Jonsered saws came with an .058 gauge chain while Stihl's mostly came with the .050. So then why does the .063 exist? Why would the manufacturers pick the gauges they did? There must have been some philosophy behind those decisions. I've been trying to push all my saws towards .050, but I think the more I get into Jonsereds this may have been a mistake as most of the period bars and even the aftermarket bars for those 10mm Jonsereds are .058, now I have a complete mish mash of sizes and gauges!..any opinions?

Spike60 · March 16, 2011, 11:36:38 AM

It was all done intentionally to drive us nuts!

Don't reall know why they cmae up with the variations, but certain regions, as well as companies developed their favorites.

Jonsered's all come with .058, except for the few small saws that use 3/8 lo pro, and have for a long time. So, that would be your preference as a Jonny fan. I think it's kind of hard to completely get away from one or the other. The various saws and projects we aquire can show up with either one. I just accept that I'm going to have some of each.

HolmenTree · March 16, 2011, 12:07:15 PM

Quote from: weimedog on March 16, 2011, 11:21:25 AM
Just a tangent about chain gauge etc..WHY does one choose say an .050 chain vs. a .063 or a .058 vs. anything else? I'e sort of been going on the assumption it has been driven by the manufacturers for example many of the Husqvarna/Jonsered saws came with an .058 gauge chain while Stihl's mostly came with the .050. So then why does the .063 exist? Why would the manufacturers pick the gauges they did? There must have been some philosophy behind those decisions. I've been trying to push all my saws towards .050, but I think the more I get into Jonsereds this may have been a mistake as most of the period bars and even the aftermarket bars for those 10mm Jonsereds are .058, now I have a complete mish mash of sizes and gauges!..any opinions?

A little marketing strategy from the big 2. At one time you were forced to buy your b/c from your saws dealer.
.063 has primarily been used on longer bars and higher powered saws. .058 was a happy medium for husky /jonsereds and at one time Dolmar. In N. America Stihl prefered selling .050 on the 3/8 and smaller chain.

Oregon sawchain in full sized 3/8" for example is standard .058 between the cutters and steps down to .050 on the .050 chain at the bar rails, .063 also available.
Stihl full sized 3/8" is .063 standard between the cutters but can step all the way down to .050.

I prefer the Oregon .058 chain for its slightly narrow cutting kerf over the wider Stihl chain. Plus the drive links are consistent .058 for extra strength and extra room between the bars rails for better lubrication as the wider drive link holds more oil. More efficient "scoop cleaning" as the sawdust forced into the bar rails kerf is being dragged out by the wider drive links.
Less wobble at the bar nose with the .058 chain over the .50 chain since all standard replaceable bar noses are .063. Laminated consumer bars and Oregon Pro-Lites can have .050, .058 and .063 sprocket noses.

Willard.

weimedog · March 17, 2011, 08:37:07 AM

Thanks for the basic info..so I think I will swerve back to the .058 based on that and if fit the hobby direction..what about old American Iron? Homelites"

While basic info is on tap..another Bar & Chain Question. Laminate vs. Solid bars? Wear vs. Weight? Any thought?

HolmenTree · March 17, 2011, 11:23:03 AM

Quote from: weimedog on March 17, 2011, 08:37:07 AM
Thanks for the basic info..so I think I will swerve back to the .058 based on that and if fit the hobby direction..what about old American Iron? Homelites"

While basic info is on tap..another Bar & Chain Question. Laminate vs. Solid bars? Wear vs. Weight? Any thought?

I have a few brand new Windsor Speed Tip 16" bars from the 1970s with Homelite painted on them and they are .050.

Laminate vs solid? Laminate are a "throw away after worn consumer bar". After a season of firewood cutting the rails spread outwards and they are then basically impossible to retighten, and to straighten the bar if bent. One month or less for steady hard pro use.
If you burn out the non replaceable sprocket nose then the bar is now a throw away.
The Oregon ProLite may have "Pro" on it buts its not a pro bar in my opinion.

Solid body replaceable nosed bars can be straightened , rails retightened and noses replaced. The standard for the pro industry.

Walter for your Jonsereds 621 I would put a .325 sprocket tip on that Oregon PowerMatch bar [easy to get] and a Oregon 9 tooth standard 7 spline .325 rim sprocket. The 9 T .325 is only 1/16" circumference larger then the 3/8" 8 T. A little extra chain speed would be good for this saw.
Use a Oregon 21 LPX - 66 DL chain which takes less power to pull and cuts smoother then the 3/8" 73 LPX or LGX chain.
This in my opinion is the perfect setup for your 621 with 16" b/c.

Willard.

SawTroll · March 18, 2011, 03:51:47 PM

Quote from: Spike60 on March 15, 2011, 02:24:45 PM
We should try these saws with both the 7 and 8 pin rims and compare the results.

.....

They came standard with 3/8"x8 for a reason I guess - it is needed if you want desent chain speed, and it has more than enough torque for it, specially with a 16" bar.

I never tried a 7-pin on mine, simply because there is no need to.....

Smurf · March 19, 2011, 10:39:11 AM

Sawtroll : Thanks for the PM . Spike: Thanks for the insight .

Very nice J-Red Project Saw , love seeing a Vintage Saw being brought back to Life !

weimedog · March 21, 2011, 07:22:43 AM

Cylinder is on and it runs!

HolmenTree · March 23, 2011, 11:16:02 AM

My 1976 Jonsered 621 had a chainbrake on it. CSA [Canadian Standard Association] required them at the time , even though they made law not until 1981 that "all" gas powered chainsaws require a chainbrake in Canada. Stihl still managed to sell 090AVs up until the early 1990s in Canada without chainbrakes.

If you look at your 621 you will see a plug on top on the crankcase halve behind the top handle bracket. Here a plunger was mounted activated by a metal tubular loop chainbrake lever, pushing down on a pad which contacted the clutch drum. Also a ground wire was built into the brake pad to cut out the ignition when a kickback happened.

Many loggers including myself disconnected this wire because accidental activation of the chainbrake hitting brush etc would cut out the ignition causing the saw to backfire. Even moisture like snow around the clutch drum would short out the ignition. Not a great idea but the chain brake was better then nothing. Not until the 910 came out in 1979 did Jonsereds get the "brake band " locking chainbrake .

Willard.

Bunny · June 14, 2011, 04:40:01 PM

Hello All...just finished a rebuild on a 621 myself. 8) Will post pics when I can. One of the major problems I had was a leaking gas tank. The saw had been sitting with "new gas" in it for some time and had corroded the thank to the point it was leaking out the bottom. Got some tank sealer (Pedersens I think) and it worked great! Had to replace the coil too but it's running again and will be back at work as soon as the rain here in Maine let's up a bit! I bought this saw new around 1976 and used it along with an Alaskan Saw mill to build my barn. It's got a 24" blade and will work a lot harder than I can keep up with anymore! I use it mainly as a felling saw for the bigger Oak and Maple I cut for fire wood here. I now have a spare parts 621 to keep this one going until after I'm dead probably! (Nice forum here)