Author Topic: Using a Rosetta Cutter (Read 3362 times)

DR_Buck · « **on:** May 22, 2011, 02:03:38 PM »

Anybody have pointers on how to properly cut roestta corner blocks for using on window casing? What speed should I run a 3" diameter cutter? I've tried soft maple and poplar at 400 rpm and get lots of grain tearout.

pigman · « **Reply #1 on:** May 22, 2011, 07:07:17 PM »

I don't know about a roestta cutter, but I run my lathe about 1000 rpm when turning corner blocks on my lathe.

jamesamd · « **Reply #2 on:** May 22, 2011, 07:34:27 PM »

700 should be good,feed slowly but don't allow it to burn.Go about 1/16th per contact.
Jim

Larry · « **Reply #3 on:** May 22, 2011, 07:58:18 PM »

I’ve never seen anybody cut clean rosette blocks with one of those cutters...well maybe if they hold there mouth just right.

I think GF makes them to sell. You might pm him if he doesn’t post on this thread.

I cut em on a lathe.

isawlogs · « **Reply #4 on:** May 22, 2011, 09:08:47 PM »

1000 rpm is what I was turning corner blocks, make sure the cutter is as sharp as you can get it and take very shallow cuts.

tyb525 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 22, 2011, 09:54:12 PM »

I think a fast speed with a slow feed rate would be best.

DR_Buck · « **Reply #6 on:** May 22, 2011, 10:37:24 PM »

I failed to mention I was doing this on drill press. I can change the speed to get it up close to 1000. I think the pullys get me to 925 rpm. I'll check nect trip to the shop.

Feed rate is easy to keep slow as I pull the bit down into the block and can keep it to very shallow cuts.

Burlkraft · « **Reply #7 on:** May 23, 2011, 07:55:24 AM »

Mine seem to work best on cherry and walnut.

They do need to be sharp...really sharp and use a smooth downward force.

I use mine on the lathe at somewhere between 1000 and 1500 rpm

They still don't clean up perfect, but with a little hand sanding they clean up nice.

Ernie · « **Reply #8 on:** May 23, 2011, 02:44:39 PM »

This might help.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/rosette.htm

tyb525 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 23, 2011, 07:17:18 PM »

Poplar and soft maple will be tough to get a clean cut with any tool, since they're so soft

Burlkraft · « **Reply #10 on:** May 23, 2011, 09:12:56 PM »

Quote from: tyb525 on May 23, 2011, 07:17:18 PM

Poplar and soft maple will be tough to get a clean cut with any tool, since they're so soft

Well said Ty,....That DanG pople stays hairy no matter what you do

Tom · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2011, 02:27:52 AM »

I always thought that one of those cutters would be handy in dressing the bottom of a turned bowl. I mentioned it to my Old-timer bowl turner and said, "never work." I still think it would be a good idea if the design were proper and not cut too deep because it could even be done after the bowl is removed from the lathe.

tyb525 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 02, 2011, 07:05:32 PM »

That wouldn't be hard to do, especially if you have a chuck that fits into your tailstock and have a way of mounting the bowl on the lathe so the bottom is facing out. Just advance the cutter in the the bowl and voila. You can also get planer cutters similar to rosette cutters, they just don't have a design and are like a giant Forster bit, without the pilot.

GF · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2011, 09:00:12 AM »

Used to make some and sell. I tried the steel cutter rosette cutters with the removable blades and could never make a clean rosette. I use the carbide cutters. To keep tear out to a minimum you have to make sure they are really sharp. Make sure you also have a good clamping system with a solid table so nothing moves. I used a milling machine to do mine with, since the table and head are both real solid. I used red oak, white oak, and pine for my rosettes. Even made a few ERC rosettes.

Let us know how it turns out.

GF

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