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Yea, me too, I was just wondering today if anyone else replied to messages just be able to get notified of updates.
However if you are ripping ,milling whatever keep in mind that aside from stumping this is about a demanding of a task ever placed on a chainsaw .As such you have to run a rich carb setting .Lean fuel mix will run much hotter than rich .Too lean or even with a normal setting for average usage will not work out well on long rip cuts .
Then too in my opinion for the two cents it's worth seems to me that many have the bright idea they must cut lumber as smooth as if were ran through a table saw with a hollow ground cabinet blade so they use rip chain .Rip chains are slow,they pull saw dust instead of chips .To me they put undo stress on the saw where a standard old chisel will cut smooth enough for the purpose .After all if it is finish lumber it will be planed anyway .
The first thing I checked was the High speed mixture screw - it had been turned all the way out to the stop so I left it there.
Well Stihl came through! They sent the dealer two piston/cylinder sets to repair the saws. The dealer rebuilt the saws at no charge. I picked up one Friday and spent today cutting up firewood to break it in. The first thing I checked was the High speed mixture screw - it had been turned all the way out to the stop so I left it there. The idle was dropped to 12,800rpm. I mixed up some fuel to about 32:1 for the break in. I was only able to go through two tanks of fuel today. I will run another couple of tanks through it before I commence to milling. For firewood cutting I am running a 25" bar with RMC chain. The saw sings with this combo. For milling I have two setups now. I need to complete halving the 42" red oak log that I got 3/4 the way halved. I will then cut the halves into quarters. For that log I will use a 32" bar with 10° ripping chain. I also bought an updated Grandberg Mini Mill which has a better system for clamping to the bar that should allow for ripping without struggling to keep the saw near vertical. For the remaining large oak logs I am planning to use an Alaska mill setup with a 38" bar and ripping chain to slab the logs down to 22" x 28" cants running the saw horizontally and not buried in the log. The remaining logs have a number of limbs and knots so the end product will be 2"x 8" boards sawn through and through. The first log is clear and the goal is to quarter saw it.It will be Tuesday or Wednesday before I can get to the milling. I will let you all know how it turns out.Thank-you for the good advice.I cannot say enough for the way Stihl and the dealer (Martinsville Ace Hardware) have worked with me on this issue. The dealer also sold me a new Stihl piston/cylinder set for my MS460 at a discount. I rebuilt the MS460 and put a big bore kit (52mm) on my old MS440 that I toasted a year ago after dropping a tree on it. The dealer is going to leak test the 440 for me to insure the seals are stil intact. So if this all works out I will have the new 660, my trusty 441, the 460 and the 440 with a big bore kit. That should keep me going for a while
Sorry I'm late on this one. I just got back on line after a week with no FF fix. . Full comp conventional chain. File it straight across and hold the file level (a chain grinder helps a lot for shaping the chain to start). File it quite a bit deeper than you would for a regular cross-cut chain Do all this and feed the saw smoothly and you will see wood that's smoother than you'll get from a bandmill.
Today I put the tach on the saw and got the high rpms to settle around 13500. I could not replicate the 12800 the dealer set it at. I ran a couple rich mixes through the saw cutting firewood the past few days but I went back to the 50:1 after having a conversation with the dealer. He pointed out that the unburned oil has to go somewhere which usually means something is going to clog up. There was an obvous film of oil around the decomp valve.End result: I attached the new mini mill to the bar and proceeded to rip the log. I kept the saw just below wide open and it cut clean and relatively quickly. The saw never bogged down or seemed to heat up. Mission accomplished Here is what was different from the other two attempts:Updated mini mill gripped the bar securely and there was no slipping so I put a lot less pressure on the saw in the cut.The temp today is in the mid sixties with a light rain - much better than 105° [/quote If you cant get less than 13500 RPM you need too pull the limiter caps and get it lower for milling, soon as you push it some the same thing will happen. Steve
I cooked my 066 just cutting firewood. I found out threw the forum that you need to modify the muffler. Drill a hole in it about 1/2 in, You get about a fourth more power to. Thanks Harold
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