Author Topic: Modification to top plate on the Sobon Shed (Read 3948 times)

FRANKZ · « **on:** September 08, 2011, 06:19:37 PM »

I am currently working on the 12' x16' Sobon Shed. To date I have completed the sills, floor joists, and the three bents. Note that the middle bent does not call for diagonal braces. I would like to extend the length of the top plates to 18' to have a 1' overhang on the gable ends. My problem is my sawmill which is limited to 16' lengths. I am hoping to scarf together two shorter beams but don't know where to locate the joints, relative to the middle posts, and would like suggestions on which type of scarf joint would be best. Or should I just keep it simple and go with 16 footers. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #1 on:** September 08, 2011, 06:24:06 PM »

FrankZ:
Welcome to the forum.
Please do a search here for scarfs and you'll find lots of into about how or where to located them.

after doing that if you still have questions, ask again.

Jim Rogers

FRANKZ · « **Reply #2 on:** September 08, 2011, 06:45:17 PM »

Okay, I guess the rule is to put a brace under the scarf. My lazy side was hoping that due to the small size of the shed I could avoid the brace. Thanks for sending me in the right direction.

zopi · « **Reply #3 on:** September 08, 2011, 10:35:20 PM »

Support the scarf with both post and brace...
Start on pg 92 of timber frame construction, by sobon......scarf placement and design...

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #4 on:** September 08, 2011, 10:39:50 PM »

I don't know what kind of mill you have, but you can usually saw longer than the bed, or carriage, if you are patient. That might be easier than cutting the scarfs and adding braces.

FRANKZ · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2011, 07:38:52 AM »

Dave, My sawmill is a Woodmizer LT15. My first choice would be to use an 18' foot beam. Can you help me with the process?

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #6 on:** September 09, 2011, 10:44:25 AM »

There are a few threads on sawing long on a bandmill. I can try a search later, when I get back from work. Are there any other LT15 owners in your area that you could borrow another bed section from for a day?

krusty · « **Reply #7 on:** September 09, 2011, 03:59:50 PM »

Frank.

Go for the 18' top plate if you can. With the LT15 (which I have) you should be able to move the log down a few feet to cut the last couple of log feet. It may take a couple passes to get a straight timber out of it but since you have 3 bed sections it should be doable. Just more work!

Funny I went with the LT15 even though it had a smaller engine simply so I could get a couple extra bed sections cause I knew at some point I would need a 24' timber.

K.

FRANKZ · « **Reply #8 on:** October 04, 2011, 11:53:38 AM »

Thanks to all who responded to my question. I did find a gentleman who is lending me a 4' section of carriage so I am going with the 18 foot top plate.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2011, 11:23:18 AM »

That's great. I like the look of a gable overhang sometimes.

moeh1 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 05, 2011, 08:51:30 PM »

How far can you safely overhang? I had similar thoughts about extending out the ends. Could you put a 3 foot overhang on each end if you could cut 24 footers.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #11 on:** October 06, 2011, 08:54:34 AM »

Quote from: moeh1 on October 05, 2011, 08:51:30 PM

How far can you safely overhang? I had similar thoughts about extending out the ends. Could you put a 3 foot overhang on each end if you could cut 24 footers.

That all depends on how much your snow load is for your area. Sometimes you have to put a brace outside the frame up to the plate to support the large 3' overhang.

If you don't have a large snow load then you have to also look at uplift. Uplift is what may happen in high winds. You have to properly secure the plate and rafters, roof decking to the frame and down to the foundation to prevent the roof from be ripped off in mild to high winds.

Jim Rogers

moeh1 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 06, 2011, 12:30:24 PM »

Thanks Jim, I knew there was no easy answer. I thought about a brace back, what type of joint is recommended to minimize water concerns at the bottom?

witterbound · « **Reply #13 on:** October 06, 2011, 01:04:47 PM »

I made brackets and bolted them into my walls from the outside to support my 3 ft eaves, so that my frame would be fully enclosed.

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #14 on:** October 06, 2011, 07:13:53 PM »

Quote from: witterbound on October 06, 2011, 01:04:47 PM

I made brackets and bolted them into my walls from the outside to support my 3 ft eaves, so that my frame would be fully enclosed.

This is a standard method to hold up plates outside the frame.

Here is an example of how others have done it:

You can see some of the plates have brackets on the outside of the walls.

Hope that helps.

Jim Rogers

moeh1 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 07, 2011, 12:51:29 PM »

Thanks for the photo, I got it now.
Marty

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