Author Topic: 3000 or 6000 mile Oil Change (Read 23708 times)

thecfarm · « **Reply #80 on:** November 16, 2012, 09:50:04 PM »

Al.my work is right out my back door. We went running today and I did the trip thing,128 miles today. But that is really alot for us. Most days is only 70 miles.

red · « **Reply #81 on:** May 21, 2018, 02:19:52 PM »

This is a fun topic , I wonder if people have changed their mind . It's only 5 years later.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #82 on:** May 22, 2018, 06:48:37 AM »

I've changed from 5 years ago. Much more grey now!

I also changed how I change my oil. I run full synthetic in my 03 Durango and change it every 10,000 miles.

In my 13' silverado I go by the oil life indicator, also running full synthetic. Turns out to be right around 10,000 miles. Go figure.

My 13' ultra gets fresh oil, again full synthetic, at 5,000 miles. She deserves it, hauling me around!

Jon

Water Dogs · « **Reply #83 on:** January 09, 2019, 12:44:31 PM »

Sorry if someone said this . Years ago a Qt of oil was a round a $1 but now 5x that. That means it must be better ?

Water Dogs

BradMarks · « **Reply #84 on:** January 09, 2019, 04:19:45 PM »

Lifetime oil change contract with my Tundra, good for every 3 thousand miles. That way if I forget for awhile, not a big deal. Told it holds 7 qts. As long as you keep your vehicle for 100,000 miles, money ahead. Not to mention that changing the oil requires removal of the skid plate.

Stephen1 · « **Reply #85 on:** January 13, 2019, 06:10:59 PM »

I have an 07 Tundra, 220,000 miles. I change the oil every year in the fall. I use synthetic.
Oil changes are overated in north america. The oil companies own the car companies.

lxskllr · « **Reply #86 on:** February 14, 2019, 09:18:09 PM »

Been debating what to do with my truck. I was changing it twice a year, which equaled every ~12k miles. In the spring I'd use walmart synthetic 10w30, and it the fall I'd use the specced 5w30. I lost a big user of miles last year, so I could do it once a year and be pretty close to the old mileage schedule. It uses 1qt/1k miles, so it gets some fresh stuff every so often. Still undecided. May will be the time of the spring change. I guess I'll decide then.

AZ_builder · « **Reply #87 on:** February 14, 2019, 09:54:42 PM »

I’ve been in the “oil changing”/ car repair business for 20 years. 10k oil changes are a joke! We see cars with broken pistons, carbon coking, slugging, regularly. If you want to change your oil every 10-20k then do so BUT change your filter and top off every 3-5k! The oil is made to last several thousand more miles than the filter. Also, use a factory filter. More so if your still in warranty.j

BradMarks · « **Reply #88 on:** February 15, 2019, 01:03:46 PM »

My respected mechanic next door to our business says changing your oil is the most important thing you can do to your vehicle. Especially newer ones. And yes to what AZ says, it's not the oil, it's the gunk it gathers from the combustion process and wearing of parts. That is what causes problems, not oil failure.

roadiestar · « **Reply #89 on:** February 15, 2019, 01:40:38 PM »

I change my oil every 5000 miles

red · « **Reply #90 on:** February 15, 2019, 02:02:31 PM »

Reply #19 has a link to the newspaper article. New vehicles do not need 3,000 mile oil changes. Of course your mileage will vary .

alan gage · « **Reply #91 on:** May 17, 2019, 03:59:07 PM »

Engines are much better than they used to be. Oils are much better than they used to be. We still recommend 3000 miles at our shop.

10 years ago we really struggled with what to do when manufacturer's started lengthening recommended oil change intervals. We decided to stick with the 3000 mile recommendation with good filters and factory specified oils. We let the customer know it was up to them to extend the mileage if they were comfortable with it. We liked 3000 miles if for no other reason than all the fluids, tires, and underbody got checked, which most people neglect to do anymore. We sometimes see things like ball joints go from good to really bad in 5000 miles.

Fast forward to present day and we feel more confident than ever in recommended 3000 mile intervals. We've seen too many vehicles that use hardly any oil from 0-3000 miles and then use 2 quarts between 3000-5000. Most people (us included) are not in the habit of checking oil because it's not common for engines to use it any more.

We've seen too many 5.4 liter Ford engines losing oil pressure at idle, which causes the cam phasers to quit working. The fix for this is a $7000-9000 engine replacement. The majority of these were not serviced regularly.

We've seen too many timing chain failures in GM 3.6 liter engines. The fix for this is $2000-3000 and usually includes pulling the engine for access. The majority of these vehicles were not serviced regularly.

There are many other problems too and while no doubt most of them were design issues that showed up down the road the lack of oil changes seems to be compounding the problem. More than once there have been service bulletins on these issues to reprogram the vehicles computer so it will shorten the recommend oil change interval (on vehicles that use a oil monitor).

On a new vehicle I wouldn't hesitate to go 5000 miles but as the mileage increased I'd start taking it back down to 3000. If you're not the type of person who regularly checks oil and tires then 3000 miles is probably a safer bet.

Alan

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #92 on:** May 21, 2019, 08:54:21 AM »

My buddy Dave changes his oil and filter every 10,000 miles.
He has just over 300,000 miles on his Honda with no problems.

alan gage · « **Reply #93 on:** May 24, 2019, 12:52:57 PM »

We've got a 2010 Chevy Traverse with a 3.6 at 150k in the shop now for timing chains. When I started it up in the parking lot the engine rattled for a couple seconds on startup. Checked the oil and it was 3.5 quarts low. 6,100 miles since the oil was last changed and the vehicle's oil life monitor indicated there was still 37% oil life left. Upon disassembly the sprockets are all badly worn (in addition to stretched chains). I won't blame the entire failure on not changing oil often enough but with an already trouble prone system like these 3.6 timing chains I sure wouldn't be pushing my luck.

And if nothing else it illustrates that if you're not in the habit of regularly checking your oil then you shouldn't be running that long before changing it. I'd be willing to bet the majority of that oil usage came in the last 3000 miles rather than the first 3000 when the oil was fresher.

Alan

alan gage · « **Reply #94 on:** June 18, 2019, 10:30:41 AM »

Customer dropped off their car today for an oil change and mentioned they'd had a funny noise coming from the engine. Eventually they figured out it was low on oil and added 2 1/2 quarts. They found this odd because the oil life monitor still showed 33%. When they brought it in today the oil life was at 19% and the oil wasn't touching the dipstick. It's been 5200 miles since the last synthetic oil change and the engine has 132k on it. We'll be having a talk with them about changing the oil sooner or checking the level more often.

Alan

Al_Smith · « **Reply #95 on:** June 18, 2019, 08:51:30 PM »

I'd like to have a chat with the design engineer who had the bright idea to tuck the oil filter in a place you can't hardly get to it .Then every filter takes a different special wrench because a strap wrench won't get-er-done .My goodness I've got one drawer in one of my tool boxes completely full of oil filter wrenches .Some of them are so tight packed you can't even get your hand in .On my Mercury,even on a rack you can't get to it ,it has to be from under the hood .Now that's just plain dumb .

lxskllr · « **Reply #96 on:** June 20, 2019, 05:01:15 PM »

The drain plug on my Dakota is a PITA. There's a crossbeam that makes it a little difficult to get a wrench on, but not a huge deal. The huge deal comes when you get the plug out. Carefully place the oilpan to catch the oil, pray, then remove the plug. Bullseye! did it perfectly! It overshot the crossbeam, and went right in the pan. Since it's been 6 months since I've changed the oil, and forgotten the rest, I hangout under the truck to admire my handiwork. Pressure drops, the oil hits the crossbeam, then fans out all over the bottom of the truck, spraying me and everything else. It's impossible to catch all the oil in the truck. I'd like to kick the engineer that designed it in the nads :^S

alan gage · « **Reply #97 on:** June 29, 2019, 06:00:58 PM »

I know of which you speak. Hold a funnel near the drain to catch the stream and divert it down into your catch pan.

Alan

lxskllr · « **Reply #98 on:** June 29, 2019, 07:37:36 PM »

I've considered making a cloth funnel that's held to the pan with magnets. Stick the lower edge, remove the plug, stick the upper part. I cool down after awhile, then don't get around to it.

mike_belben · « **Reply #99 on:** September 22, 2019, 10:21:06 AM »

I did blackstone labs analysis for quite a few subsequent rounds on my 12v cummins that was turned up and running straighht wvo in a heated 2 tank system. Cam2 oil was pretty bad but on rotella 15/40 and then later rimula 15/40 [same thing but bulk, cheaper] the right interval was at about 8200 miles. Id have around 10-15% lubricity and detergents left. This was quite a bit of short trips and towing. Not much idling.

Most guys running good oil in a commuter diesel that isnt short cycling or turned up, probably good for 10k interval.

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Author Topic: 3000 or 6000 mile Oil Change (Read 23708 times)

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