Bar oil vs. used motor oil

[Lambee10]

I got in a bind this weekend and ran out of bar oil.  :  In order to finish cutting the tree I used some used motor oil that came out of my tractor on my last change.  It got me through the job but is that something I can continue to use?  seems to keep it oiled well and is easy to get!

[lumberjack48]

I used all my used motor oil, when we had 2 trucks, 2 skidders, 1 feller buncher, 2 pickups, 2 cars, thats  39 gals of oil in one change.

I never had a problem using used oil, just a little dirty [ black]

Back when we used solid nose bars, i used #90 cut with fuel oil in the winter, it didn't smell very good, the bar would be green on the end. The chain sure run smooth  with it.

[chevytaHOE5674]

If you really want to run it I would recommend running it through some sort of filter first as often times used motor oil has bits and pieces in it that can and will clog up the tiny passage in your chainsaw oiler.

Won't mention that used oil usually contains heavy metals and is slightly toxic.......

[Al_Smith]

Old crankcase oil is some smelly  nasty stuff .I save all mine in 55 gallon drums and my buddy burns it in a black oil heater .

I have a 2100 S Homelite that was a west coaster that somebody black oiled before I got it .It must have taken me a gallon of kerosine flushing all that stuff out of it .

[tstex]

I have seen a post like this before on used oil in chainsaws...there is a reason used motor/crankcase oil is black, it is contaminated with gasoline that was ignited and then emit both carbon and some possible pieces of metal residue.  Running this stuff in your c-saw should be for an emergency situation only...if not, the cheapest chain oil out there should not set you back too much...tstex

[lumberjack48]

When oil is drained out its already filtered oil, it is good clean oil, turned black from a little soot and going cold to hot also causes oil to turn black.

I always check oil between my fingers, if it slippery its good usable oil yet.

I never had any oiler problems, dirty oil isn't the word for used oil, its used oil, it doesn't have dirt in it.

I used it over a 30 yr period, never had a issue with it, it was cheap, or maybe i was.    8)

[Al_Smith]

You can get a ton of junk in the bottom of an oil pan especially in a high hours engine .

Now I wouldn't use it .However just for the record somebody did a research thing on it with respect to wear and tear on a saw and found no significant difference between it and regular high tack bar oil .

Oil never really" wears out "so to speak ,it just gets contaminated .The big diesels on the U-boats used a centifuge system  and I forget exactly but maybe 100 gallons of oil .It had several canister filters and for all intents the oil  circulating though the engine was just about as clean as if it were newly added .

[chevytaHOE5674]

When oil is drained out its already filtered oil, it is good clean oil, turned black from a little soot and going cold to hot also causes oil to turn black.

Its filtered after its sucked from the oil pan and before it enters the oil passages.

When it comes out of the bottom of the oil pan it isn't yet filtered after being run and there is also sludge and sediment in the bottom of the oil pan from normal wear and tear.

I used it over a 30 yr period, never had a issue with it, it was cheap, or maybe i was.    8)

Saws back then had much less sensitive oilers. They tossed oil onto the bar like water from a fire hose. Modern saws apply much less oil to the bar (thanks EPA), so what oil makes it to the bar needs to be tacky and stay there for a bit.   

[Al_Smith]

Back in the days of non detergent oil which kept things in suspension they'd have say a 5 bucket full of old oil .If they let it sit a couple months they could skim off about half a bucket full that was nice and clear .

Detergent oil could sit for a year and be just as black and nasty as it was when it first went in the bucket .

[Paul_H]

I was in the logging industry the same amount of years as lumberjack48 and never saw a logging outfit run used oil in a saw but maybe it's a regional thing.I wouldn't dream of it unless it was an emergency and we needed to finish out the day.
We liked to run good fuels and oils and maintained our equipment reasonably well as we depended on it.

In the saw shop here I have only one customer that runs used oil but he is a little on the haywire side. :D

[Red Pill]

On another note, is there a vegetable oil based bar oil? I've never been concerned about using regular bar oil or 30-weight, but I have to wonder if it will become an environmental issue.

[gspren]

On another note, is there a vegetable oil based bar oil? I've never been concerned about using regular bar oil or 30-weight, but I have to wonder if it will become an environmental issue.

Stihl has an oil that they say breaks down quickly. Unless you spill it I don't think all that much oil from a modern chainsaw ever hits the ground.

[shelbycharger400]

parents wood/tree service back in the 80's all they ran was used motor oil, still have almost all the saws, none ever had an oil pump problem or replacement that i can remember.  from what they say a few went to the garbage can after they became too costly to fix , mainly wore out or were droped . they went through a LOT of pruner saws. all the good big saws are still around, i dont think they climbed with them.  they did it all by hand climbing with spikes and ropes, no bucket truck.   we threw out the old waste belt harness 2 years ago, going through stuff...  what a joke that thing is compared to what is available now.    side note...  how long are climbing ropes good for?   they are not frayyed or decayed, all look nearly new , they threw out the bad ropes as they got recked.

[Corley5]

We ran used oil years ago when Grandpa Whittaker was still alive.  He'd filter it and bottle it back into gallon oil jugs.  I've ran it in a pinch along with mix oil, gear lube etc. but I prefer fresh bar lube.  It's more convenient too  8)

[Clam77]

On another note, is there a vegetable oil based bar oil? I've never been concerned about using regular bar oil or 30-weight, but I have to wonder if it will become an environmental issue.

Stihl has an oil that they say breaks down quickly. Unless you spill it I don't think all that much oil from a modern chainsaw ever hits the ground.

I was in the saw shop the other day and saw some of Stihl's new stuff on the shelf (in green bottles of course) and asked about it - guy told me not alot of people are buying it yet with the exception of the federal agencies - guess they all switched to it already around here.  He also said everything in it bio-degrades within a short time EXCEPT for the tackifiers... Stihl web site says 93.8% degraded within 21 days..

Is it REALLY that big a deal that they think we're slinging that much oil around??   :

[beenthere]

So when does the "green" start to degrade?
Chances are it doesn't wait until it gets pumped out across the bar to degrade, but begins soon after it is refined  : :

Sounds a bit like the short life of ethanol fuel, only shorter.

[Al_Smith]

Too much ado about bar oil in my opinion .I still maintain that the traffic  alone drops more oil on interstate 75 and US 30 almost daily than all the chainsaws combined in an entire year in Allen county Ohio .

[sawguy21]

I remember an old logger than ran used equipment oil in his saws, too cheap to pay for it. He got pithed with me about the cost of repairing/replacing the pumps, I told him I was only too happy to take his money. :D
Oregon offers a biodegradable oil in a concentrate that the user mixes 4:1 with water. Not too popular yet but future forestry regulations may force change.

[Al_Smith]

 :D My neighbor did that black oil thing .Until that is he loaned out his nice little Makita which was a Dolmar painted blue and of course it came back broke .I turned him on to Scott where he got another crankcase for repairs .I told him to take the whole grease pile  to the car wash before he brought that mess into my garage .Which he had and hasn't used black oil since .

[T Welsh]

I have done it both ways,our daily operation use store bought bar oil, but like others said used oil has no ill effects other than making a black mess in front of the saw. as petroleum products get more and more costly I am thinking why not reuse it and its all I run in the processor right now and no ill effects yet. after changing the oil in the trucks I have gallons of used oil to use. and yes you have to put clean oil in the saw not the grungy stuff from the bottom. Tim

[tstex]

I am not sure how far s-termite colonies push the northern boundaries of the US, but used motor/hydraulic fluids are very useful where I live.  If you dropped a toothpick on the grd after dinner, and went to pick it up 10 minutes later, it would be gone!

We have very sandy-loam soil and termites are everywhere...they will travel-up concrete foundations/pier & beams with their tunnels and up to the ridge-boards of my sheds, barns, house, etc.  So, I put old towels down on the grd and carefully pour the old used fluids on the lower part of structure siding boards [cedar, pine, etc] and of course on all the lower plate boards...let it soak in and do it again...it is good for about 5 yrs...there are places where i did this and the termites later ate the soaked boards after 5 yrs, so everything does have a half-life, or these are  a new strain of nuclear termites.  I also pour the old stuff on the tops of my large fence posts...the cedar just soaks it up...keeps the tops from splitting so fast...

Be safe,
tstex

[NCFarmboy]

You can use canola cooking oil for bar lube.  It was originally designed for a high pressure machinery lubricant.  Some guys run it in some Forest Service areas because of regulations.  If you do use it before storage flush the oil tank and run it some wth reg. bar lube to replace the canola in the op and line.  If you don't it will dry into a gooey mess clogging the op and lines.  If I could find some tackifier I would run hydraulic oil it's a lot cheaper or used to be haven't bought a drum lately.  May try it to see how it works.  I have about 25 gals.  Probably have to turn the oiler way down.
Shep

[beenthere]

May try it to see how it works.

If you do try it, then what will you be looking for to "see if it works" ?  Heat in the bar?
Over the long term, what might be the indicators that it does or doesn't work?

[mad murdock]

I have been running drained oil from the helicopter transmissions for years now.  It does very well.  As far as crankcase oil.  If I ran it, i would filter it first, then mix it with some gear lube, it is pretty thin by itself.  Mine is a mix of synthetic gear lube and 40w aviation engine oil, (ised in helicopter transmissions), the only metals suspended in the stuff is maybe a little lead from gear spacers in the tranny, (which IMO only makes it better).

[old 030]

used oil is corosive to magneseum cases, i've seen it happen, but this was straight, unfiltered used oil, just my 2 cents worth :

[Spike60]

With the price of bar oil these days, I think we'll be seeing more of this. I have a couple customers that are running used oil and knowing their situations, I don't even bring it up.

But I would never recommend it. There is the chance that some of you have already mentioned for oil pump issues. But what is more certain is shorter bar life. Much of the oil today is 5/30. That's even thinner than winter weight bar oil, so an awful lot of it is flying off the end of the bar. But if you do the math, you're probably saving way more on bar oil than you would be spending buying bars.  :-\

[Al_Smith]

I've used 30wt ,gear lube ,even ATF when is was cold as a well diggers butt but never black oil .I did have an old oak deck trailer once I used gob black oil on about every two three years to preserve it .Other than that it gets burnt like I said in my buddys black oil heater .Lot of BTU's in a gallon of crankcase oil .Besides it's free .

[mrcaptainbob]

I used black engine oil for a few years, too. Went through FAR more bars and chains. Here's what changed my mind.... A friend let me use some oil from TSC. YIKES! What an improvement in cutting! It was immediately noticeable. And the chains last VERY much longer! I am a convert back to bar oil.

[NCFarmboy]

May try it to see how it works.

If you do try it, then what will you be looking for to "see if it works" ?  Heat in the bar?
Over the long term, what might be the indicators that it does or doesn't work?

Bar heat, chain stretch/life retention on chain/bar is what I would be looking for.  Even straight hyd, oil should work.  Canola cooling oil is used for bar oil and I've read it works just as good as bar oil.
Shep

[gspren]

Using engine oil, new or used, was ok years ago when the oil was thicker and the saws slower but with todays oils having very little tackiness and the saw speed singing I will stick to bar oil.

[pineywoods]

I use reclaimed hydraulic oil for bar and chain lube. Have also used second-hand motor oil. The problem with both is it's not sticky, slings off the end of the bar, so the bottom of the bar gets little or no lube. If you add a qt of stp to 5 gallons of oil, solves that problem. Works good and I have seen no ill effects..

[smalldog]

Some people localy have been using this bar lube because it's $2 cheaper a gallon. It comes out black like drain oil and is sometimes lumpy. I have seen that it leaves a tar substance in the tank of the saw and plugs the filter. The tar stuff is tough to clean out of the tank too. I don't know if it was a bad batch or if is all like that. Brand is "Chain Pro"

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/439661-bar_and_chain_oil.html?lref=%2fcatalog%2ffind.aspx%3ft%3dbar%2boil

[John Mc]

used oil is corosive to magneseum cases, i've seen it happen, but this was straight, unfiltered used oil, just my 2 cents worth :

Not surprising, since some of the byproducts of combustion are corrosive, and some of them end up in the engine oil.

[trapper]

John Mc  looks like the same cheaper stuff sold By fleet farm and menards..  Used it once and did not like the residue in the bottom of the jug.  Thinking it wood do the same in my oiler resivour.  Didnt like the smell either. 

[Al_Smith]

TSC stuff is allright .I used it for years .Then Stihl for about a year was cheaper which is surprising because anything that says Stihl is pricey  .

Got the hot set up now ,free .Tom the tree guys brother in law works in a repacking plant  and they can have all the leakers .Not bad stuff ,comes in a 2.5 gallon jug which I dump into an Era 1 gallon jug which has a tap valve on the bottom .Nice and tidy.Oil in the saw not all over my leg .Neatest thing since sliced bread or beer in a can .

[OneWithWood]

When I was first starting out with a chainsaw I used reclaimed engine oil (heated and filtered as suggested in a Mother Earth News Article).  After premature bar failure from excess heat and chains stretching way too soon I started using regular bar oil.  What a difference 
Used motor oil just will not stick to the bar and chain the way bar oil does.  In my opinion it is a false savings to use old motor oil given the price of bars and chain.

[snowshoveler]

I run the service department in a pretty busy saw shop.
If a saw comes in with used oil in the crankcase, the warranty is gone.
Most mechanics wont even work on them. I will try to help if I can.
I know that most people running the used oil are not doing it by choice.
They just don't have the money for the proper chain oil.
In my opinion the worst part of the used oil is there is a fog of oil all over the saw.
Imagine how much of that you are breathing in.

  Chris   

[sawguy21]

He could buy a lot of chain oil for the price of the bar and chain plus down time. I am a firm believer in using quality lubricants in anything I run.

[SwampDonkey]

The research has already been done on bar oil versus trying to recycle used oil or other stuff. I'll stick to the bar oil and I'll still not wear out these saws I have now from use. They'll probably get ruined for not being used much.  :

[Al_Smith]

It doesn't make any difference if it's a chainsaw,an auto engine or a machine tool .The lubrication of same is its' life blood .

I mean you can save a lot of money not changing the oil in your car too but you might wring the engine at 35,000 miles .

[John Mc]

AMEN!

There may be fully effective, and less expensive substitutes to bar oil, but used motor oil is not something I'll be using in my saws.

If I was stuck and need to get out a blocked driveway in an emergency? Sure, but not for normal use.

[Al_Smith]

I've heard the arguments from supposedly operaters on the west coast that had a fleet of 200 saws to maintain etc .Now maybe so maybe not but remember this is the internet and anything can be said .

Never the less the debate was that the savings in premature failure of bars chains etc was more than off set by the savings in oil by using black oil .I question first of all the 200 saws plus the rest of the statement .

My self perhaps being naive about west coasters would certainly think though that an operation that large if it did exist would certainly have a better maintainance program  than that .

The whole idea to me regarding cheap or free oil in a fleet of high dollar pro grade saws would be akin to a farmer in these parts using cheap oil in a 200 thousand dollar John-Deere combine .They just don't do it  period .

[Lambee10]

Well...I started this thread and did not check on it until today.  Wow.  I did not realize it would get this good a discussion going.  I think looking over the forty some different views that it was pretty even until about half way and using good lubricant in good equipment wins over.

I like my Stihl and have had it for about 16 years.  No need to change now and I will go get more bar oil for the weekend and take the used oil to Auto Zone to recycle.

thanks for the insight!

[joe_indi]

Oil out of the 1st oil change of engines contain a lot of metal which is abrasive.
The carbon in used oils also is abrasive.
Oil pumps wear out real fast.
The oil seals too wear out.Once this happens the results from oil intrusion into the crankcase is not good for the saw.
A safer alternative here is any cheap vegetable oil mixed with 10 to 25% SAE 140 Gear oil (differential oil) and 2% kerosene or diesel.
The gear oil contributes its anti-fling properties to the cocktail. The kerosene/diesel helps to prevent resin buildup on the chain and bar.

[lumberjack48]

Well...I started this thread and did not check on it until today.  Wow.  I did not realize it would get this good a discussion going.  I think looking over the forty some different views that it was pretty even until about half way and using good lubricant in good equipment wins over.

I like my Stihl and have had it for about 16 years.  No need to change now and I will go get more bar oil for the weekend and take the used oil to Auto Zone to recycle.

thanks for the insight!

lambee10 what got this heated up was my thread on using all my used motor oil [ I knew it would ]

Over my 30 yrs of running saw, yes i used all my used oil. When i ran out of that i used hyd oil that i could buy at that time for $2. a gal. I had up to 6 saws running at a time, over all the yrs i never replace a oil pump. If i would have run in to any problems, i would have never continued using it.
Over the yrs i can't say i didn't buy a jug of chain oil. I was at K-Mart one night, they had a special on chain oil, i can't remember the price but it must have been cheap to get my attention [ Right   ]. It was in 2 1/2 gal. jugs, they had 30 left, i bought-em all.

Back in the 60's when we were using #90 or 140 mixed with #1 fuel oil on solid nose bars, we ran in to excessive ware on chain rivets, the oil wasn't getting in to them.
 

[tcrew]

AMEN!

There may be fully effective, and less expensive substitutes to bar oil, but used motor oil is not something I'll be using in my saws.

If I was stuck and need to get out a blocked driveway in an emergency? Sure, but not for normal use.

I 2nd that AMEN. I dont get equipment for free,so it pays to use the recommended lubes in all my equipment,both in less break downs and in trade in/resale at the end of the day. Just my opinion and the way i run everything i own. Stuff just costs 2 much $ these days to gamble on less than recommended oils/lubes. And im pretty sure if given the choice for the same $, most here would choose the recommended lube over the used oil. Not 2 say that i never used 30# oil back many years ago once or twice would be a lie. But we all try this and that,then we find whats best.

[John Mc]

I haven't been using chainsaws all that long, but I have to wonder if folks are comparing what they used "back in the day" to what works on new saws, there could be quite a difference in the construction of the oilers. Perhaps the older ones could handle more crud without choking on it?

[Ianab]

They certainly poured out more oil, and probably weren't built to the tight tolerances that they are on modern saws.

Ian

[DebarKing]

Thank you guys for all of the great info. Some know I just dropped a decent wad of cash into my 362 recently. I had never thought of using old motor oil, hyd. fluid, etc, but I'm glad I got the chance to read this! I'm just one guy, and the cost of clean bar oil is far less than that of replacing bars and chains for one saw, let alone those of a huge logging outfit.

[lumberjack48]

This is why the saws have a filter in the oil tank, so that nothing can get to the oiler pump to ruin it. You could put a hand full of sand in the tank, all it would do is plug the filter. Then you rinse it out with gas, put a new filter on and your back in business. I've had filters plug up with saw dust and wood chips because the help never cleaned the debris way when filing. The last saws i used were, 272, 266, 024, 038, 2, 044's and a 034, this is the last bunch of saws we had in 96.

Thank you guys for all of the great info. Some know I just dropped a decent wad of cash into my 362 recently. I had never thought of using old motor oil, hyd. fluid, etc, but I'm glad I got the chance to read this! I'm just one guy, and the cost of clean bar oil is far less than that of replacing bars and chains for one saw, let alone those of a huge logging outfit.

I am a professional chain saw operator, again if i would have had excessive chain ware or bar failure i would have never used it. If you knew me you'd know how fussie I'm about everything, i kept my equipment in A1 shape, thats how i made my living.
I'm getting a feeling like I'm getting step on like i didn't now what i was doing.  >:( >:(

[beenthere]

lumberjack48
We listen to you and enjoy you telling how it was and can learn from your experiences.
My '75 Stihl 041 kept pumping bar oil until I semi-retired it in '04. Never knew there was an oil filter to check. I'd check it if I had a clue. Seems not much has been discussed here about oil filters.
Something I'll look into. thanks

[Paul_H]

lumberjack48

You value you opinion from your own experiences and so do the other members value their own opinions and experiences.You apparently have worked full time(8 hours + a day,10 months a year) in the woods since you were 11 years old and have seen many things that shaped your opinions and we respect that.
Many others have had similar or different experiences.
My own were it was better to use a proper bar oil.There was one haywire that would drain the oil from the yarder and put it in the loader and that was certainly his right but he shouldn't push it onto others.

[gspren]

  The engine oils have changed more in the last 10 years than what the saws have. Years ago there wasn't a lot of difference between engine oil and bar oil but now in order to get better gas milage the oils have lost their stickiness which they don't really need and are pumped under pressure into the bearings. Chain lubes need some tackiness to stay on the chain and bar at high rpms and modern engine oils just won't stick. Oils of all types are much more specialized today than 10 plus years ago.

[John Mc]

Good point, gspren. Chainsaws are turning a lot higher RPMs than they a few decades ago. The higher chain speeds might also mean different requirements from the B&C oil.

Lumberjack48 - If my posts came across as dumping on you, I apologize. I happen to disagree with the idea of running used motor oil as B&C oil in my own saws. However, if it works for you, that's great. I respect your opinion, and your right to run your saws in the way that best worked for you. I do only minor work myself on my own saws, so the chance of causing problems/repairs is a bigger deal for me than for some on here (especially those who can take a box of used parts and come up with an operating saw that will run rings around mine).

Some of the posts here seemed to come from folks who do even less work on their saws than I do on mine. For them, the risk of problems (or voiding a warranty on a new saw) may be even greater than I view it. Also, when the original poster mentioned used oil from his tractor, I pictured a diesel tractor (he didn't say that, I just assumed it. My tractor is a diesel, so that's what comes to mind when someone says "diesel"). I'd be even less inclined to run used oil from a diesel engine than from a gas engine, since used diesel oil can be even more acidic than that from a gas engine.

[lumberjack48]

I haven't recommended anybody to use used motor oil. It was my choice at the time because it was available, #30 straight weight oil, still slippery between my fingers. I thought why am i buying chain oil when i already have all this oil that i have to haul to town to get rig of.  [ I Refined it myself ]

I had my O44 Mag set at 16,000 RPM, 034 Super, 13,000+, I'm the guy down the road that had to have the fastest cutting saw, not the biggest but the fastest.
Like the Ole saying, theres 2 things you don't loan out, Thats your Wife or your Chainsaw.

If i needed bar oil today, i would put my used oil though cheese cloth, then every 2 gals put a can of that cheap Wall-Mart motor honey in it [ used to be $1.00 ] you would have good bar oil.  8)

This way you get every $ out of every quart you buy. 

The best bar oil i ever used was Rock Drill Oil, it would string out more then 12" s.

[Banjo picker]

My dad used the burnt motor oil, as he called it in his McCullouch chain saws when I was a young lad...He was a timber cutter from the day when they used cross cut saws ( ole gaggy was the term he used, and one of his is in my attic now) .  I never knew they sold special oil for a chain untill I was in my twenties...But when I started buying my own saws I went with the bar oil... One thing I rember was that the old saws had to be mechanicaly oiled...a little push button there on the handle...I think those ole saws could get by with a product that was a tad inferior, if you used more of it...Just my take on it..Banjo

[tyb525]

My dad always used black oil in his 036, and never had trouble with it. He gave the saw to me when he moved out, and then I always used bar oil in it. Never had a problem though. (I have accidentally rinsed the oil tank out with gas mix a couple times though :)

There was a short time I used motor oil as bar lube, it had been through the car but hadn't but run at all (someone put in wrong weight of oil, got it from the service station I worked at) I filtered the oil through a paint filter, and then mixed it 50/50 with ATF (this was winter). It seemed to work fine, except the bar and saw was red from the ATF. Made it easy to tell the saw was oiling enough added up to about 2 gallons.

[barbender]

I've seen several people run used oil for bar oil, I've done it myself a time or two and the only ill effect I've noticed is the black mess you end up with everywhere. Bar oil is just junk oil with some tackifier added as far as I understand, I'd probably use more used motor oil if the price of bar oil goes up any more. I've used lots of used hydraulic oil, I love to score that. My buddy runs used hydraulic oil in his Ponsse harvester whenever he can get it, there is way more stress on a bar saw on a harvester head than a chainsaw.

[tcrew]

I haven't recommended anybody to use used motor oil. It was my choice at the time because it was available, #30 straight weight oil, still slippery between my fingers. I thought why am i buying chain oil when i already have all this oil that i have to haul to town to get rig of.  [ I Refined it myself ]

I had my O44 Mag set at 16,000 RPM, 034 Super, 13,000+, I'm the guy down the road that had to have the fastest cutting saw, not the biggest but the fastest.
Like the Ole saying, theres 2 things you don't loan out, Thats your Wife or your Chainsaw.

If i needed bar oil today, i would put my used oil though cheese cloth, then every 2 gals put a can of that cheap Wall-Mart motor honey in it [ used to be $1.00 ] you would have good bar oil.  8)

This way you get every $ out of every quart you buy. 

The best bar oil i ever used was Rock Drill Oil, it would string out more then 12" s.

@lumberjack48, I respect and value ur opinion. I have read many of ur posts and get allot of good advice and knowledge from them. In my humble opinion, its urs and the other very experienced guys little tricks and methods that u share with us that are priceless. So just know ur appreciated and thank you for sharing.    

[acco1840]

I use it in my old Stihl 090 with 33 inch bar all the time with no worries. However, I would not try it on a new saw. Buggered an oil pump on a 66 when I tried it once. They dont make them like they used to!! :D