Need some help with Belsaw

[Farmer_17]

 

  

  

  

  

  I got my baby home and now I need to make a new frame but need to know if the old set up is correct.
1)The pulley handle is about 2 feet back from the blade should it be that close?
2)The saw guide is home made with wood doles that are 3/4 inch should they touch blade and should they be lubricated with grease. If you think it might not work correctly any suggestions.
3) The carriage does not have any kind of reader I don't understand how to set it for what board width you want.
4) next to the pulley handle on a plate there is a foot pedal for the power unit should I set it up with a lever to kept it at one speed or press the foot pedal when I am sawing?
Thank for any help  Farmer

[snowshoveler]

Hi Farmer
I have a belsaw and I will try to help a bit, but the other guys here helped me a lot and will help you as well.
My handle is about 2 feet back from blade as well...may be correct but it works for me.
Saw guides are sometimes homemade and the wood is fine but should be soaked in oil and they should not touch a running blade. Just to see light beside them.
The reader as you call it appears missing and is not complicated. Have a look at my post on blade speed and on sharpening the blade and you will see Captain Crunches setup as well as an other one I Think.
The foot pedal or lever is up to you.
I have a throttle control off a cat dozer and a clutch lever so I can reduce the engine speed and take blade out of gear while rolling logs aroung and moving lumber.
You have a little work ahead of you but I find it is some of the best fun you can have.
Regards Chris

[snowshoveler]

Was actually your post on sharpening...I worded it a bit wrong.
My post on speed.
Chris

[Farmer_17]

Thanks Chris do you have any photo's of your throttle control off a cat dozer and a clutch lever...Farmer

[zopi]

also..yo may need to look into getting that blade looked at and worked over by a saw doc..a circle saw  (somebody fix me if I am wrong, here..) is hammered concave, so that when it comes up to speed it has largely flattened out...as I understand, this helps keep the blade cooler, and works in conjunction with the lead of the saw to keep it cutting right...there is a pub somewhere which can be downloaded on tuning circle saws..I don't recall where it is though.

[apm]

Hi Farmer,

It looks like most of it is there. Belsaw's original instruction book gave very detailed drawings and specifications for building a wood frame. Later models used steel, but the wood ones are very serviceable. I think the manuals are still available from TimberKing, a forum sponsor. They used to be Belsaw before dropping the circular mills in the late 90's and focusing exclusively on band mills. If they can't provide one, I can scan the parts you'll need. Your saw guide is homemade, the Belsaw guide was aluminum and not overly stout. Snowshoveler has pretty much set you straight on your other questions. Your feed handle is in the traditional position Belsaw used. I think the later model mills moved it away from the blade some and had some additional guarding, etc. It's really not as frightening as it looks, you'll get used to it quickly. You're going to have a great setup when you get finished.

Greg

[Farmer_17]

Thanks Greg for replying I just downloaded a user manual from Vintage machinery and it was free. 8)
I had a look at your gallery, man that is a nice place you have.
farmer

[beenthere]

The circular saw pub mentioned is likely the one of Stan Lunstrum.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

[snowshoveler]

Hi Farmer...
Looking at your blade and I see its the double circle. Thats the newer one and bits and shanks are somewhat cheaper I think.
Chris

[apm]

Thanks, Farmer. The cabin in the gallery is actually a homeschool project, built by my four sons. You can bet they spent a lot of time with the little Belsaw!

Greg

[Farmer_17]

Greg I have always dreamed of building a log cabin but I just started building a stick frame and will be using the belsaw to make it rustic. I have some kin in Knoxville and was there to visit about 3 years ago , nice country side .
farmer

[Farmer_17]

Hey beenthere nice article I will be sure to save that website..........Thanks farmer

[b dukes]

I have the owners manual from Belsaw that came with my mill when I bought it  if you think it would help. It has some information in it that was not in others I found online. Good luck on your mill and I am looking forward to seeing your progress.  The pics of mine are in my gallery.

[Farmer_17]

Hey B is theirs a way you could email me a copy I can send the address.  8) 8) 8)
Your mill is looking good I wish I had the steel frame on mind.
Thanks farmer

[b dukes]

Yeah , PM me with your email address.   

[b dukes]

Check your email , you have what I have now , hope it helps.

[Farmer_17]

Brady got it, will print it up and should help a lot............Thanks farmer

[b dukes]

I didn't send them but I do have the parts breakdown.   Hope they help you get it up and running .  I hope you got everything you need with your mill, I thought I got a deal on mine, but it was just the mill. All the small things you need really add up fast.

[Farmer_17]

Looks to be all there I just need to make a new frame out of 2x10 the old frame looked okay till I loaded it on the trailer and there were rotten places here and there.The HD-5 runs real nice but is a little hard to get started passing white smoke when you try to get her to go. It might be the timing or it has been sitting for about 4 years. I drained the fuel and it looked like tea . Hoping to find a manual for it or maybe someone here knows about them............farmer
Ps I don,t think I need the breakdown right now but if I do I will let you know. Thanks again

[bandmiller2]

Farmer,you need to pay attention to the log turners in the belsaw instructions as the carriage will not stand flopping logs over on it,gentle use with the log turners taking the brunt of the impact will give you long carriage life.On your detroit good form to drain that old fuel,if you can find some "sea-foam" additive add it to new fuel, running will be the best thing for that engine not good for them to sit fallow.There are forums on old detroit diesels look them up,old manuals are around,their all the same just the number of cylinders changes.Sometimes a tuneup will work wonders with a detroit,checking the timeing and setting the rack,best to do it by the book.Injectors can be exchanged for rebuilts quite cheaply. Frank C.

[snowshoveler]

Hello Farmer
If the Detroit clears up after warming up a few minutes ...i would say you have air in a line or 2.
White smoke is sometimes raw unburned fuel. I might get a little flack for that one. The white can also be coolant but I dont think so in this case.
I am not a diesel mechanic but did help to get a Hd5 going after sitting for about 10 years.
I eventually got a book on the 2:71 series engines and learned how the fuel lines are routed.
There is a return line that takes excess fuel back to the tank. This part could be interesting on your power unit.
On the crawler the fuel tank is behind the seat surrounded by big batteries.Its HEAYY...yikes and the lines are of course under it.
Anyway the return was buggered up and would not let the fuel circulate.
There needs to be a restriction in the return line as well or all the fuel will go to the tank instead of the rack.
Once we got the linse repaired the engine worked awesome.
A lot of people like the detroit but not its exhaust...a good muffler and tall stack will help and earmuffs are required for pretty much any engine.
I think with a little work you are going to have a sweet running mill...then new to you friends will show up needing your lumber.
Regards Chris

[apm]

Hi Farmer,

I just posted some pictures in a new topic "Belsaw modifications" that will give a pretty good picture of the normal Belsaw board scale. I think you can see how it works from the pictures, but ask if you've got any questions.

Greg