Powermatic table saw

Dustin · March 31, 2012, 01:44:37 PM

I have been looking at getting a cabinet saw now for a while and I think I have made a decision. I have read a lot of reviews and seems to me that the Powermatic PM 2000 would be the best one. I like the concept of the Saw Stop, but not the fact I might spend more money on another brake. I work construction part-time and I'm no stranger to running a table saw but I have never owned one myself. I figure if I'm going to do a lot more woodworking when I retire some day I might as well buy a good saw.

I don't post a lot on here but I read the posts on here everyday. So here is my question to you guys (because I value your opinion so much). The Powermatic PM 2000 cabinet saw, 3HP 1PH Table Saw, with 50" Accu-Fence System and Rout-R-Lift. What are your opinions or reviews of this saw? I have the money saved up for it already so thats not to much of a concern. Is 3HP more than enough or shell out a little more money for the 5HP? Am I asking for a headache with the router being there instead of its own designated table?

Norm · March 31, 2012, 02:11:58 PM

I have the PM2000 with a 5hp motor and accu-fence. I decided I'd rather not have the router lift on mine as I've already got a router table. I asked a similar question on here when I was buying mine and most said they'd rather not have a router on theirs either. If you're like me and want to have a saw forever then I'd spring for the 5hp, that way you'll never have to wonder.

To be honest if I had it to do over again I'd really give serious consideration to a saw stop. My uncle lost all of his fingers on a table saw accident and I'd really paranoid of them. But the PM2000 is an awesome saw and one I'll never replace, it is in my opinion one of the best if not the best cabinet saw out there.

mooleycow · March 31, 2012, 08:27:26 PM

powermatic is owned by jet tool. delta and portercable and dewalt are owned by black and decker tools. look for school sale. get older powermatic or delta, check the trunions for cracks. old table saws are usually the best. grizzly gets good ratings and are forthright about where they are made. buy now when you retire your funds may be limited.

mikerat · March 31, 2012, 09:25:41 PM

Dustin, I have worked at a place with Powermatic tools and there top shelf. I had a craftsman saw 1hp (on a good day) motor. I wanted a cabinet saw and found a 12 year old Delta unisaw 3 hp 1phase. When you go from maybe 1hp to 3 hp 220 its a life altering experience. But with that said if it had been a 5hp and I could afford it I would jump on it. Bought the saw at auction for 225.00 cleaned it up new belts and had motor rebuildt another 260.00 and now have a awsome saw although I would buy a new Uni-saw if I had the cash. Good luck we all would like to have your problem.

DR Buck · March 31, 2012, 09:54:55 PM

I have had my PM 2000 for 4 or 5 years now and it is the 3 HP version. I've had no problems pushing anything through it, including some 2" white oak. I do not have the rout-r-lift either. I have a separate router table. One of the nice features is the built-in wheels so you can crank it up and push it around. I think it weighs around 500 lbs.

I had an issue with the blade lock shortly after buying it and had to replace the sliding piece that holds the blade shaft while you loosen the nut. I think I didn't have it seated all the way and stripped off the end. It wouldn't hold after that.

I recommend getting the thin kerf riving knife. It's an option and really necessary if you plan on using a thin kerf blade. You will not be able to use the blade guard with the thin kerf knife as there is no place to mount the guard on it.

I think you will be happy with the PM 2000.

WDH · March 31, 2012, 10:12:57 PM

I recently bought a sawstop. It does not matter how experienced you are, the safety features are worth it. Many times it is the experienced people that get hurt the worst. As an example, most fatalities that involve felling trees happen to the experienced fellers, not the young new guys. I thought that I would not buy a new vehicle without an airbag. I felt the same way about the sawstop. Given the large amount of money that you are going to spend, why not get the best technology?

Handy Andy · April 01, 2012, 12:18:55 AM

My old Uni with 3hp is plenty for me. The main thing is to run the proper blade. The uni can rip 2" walnut fast, as long as it has a Freud rip blade on it. 1" oak just goes through like a breeze. The proper blade makes a huge difference. Personally, I'd look for a used cabinet saw. In "04 mine cost 1,000, with the long rails and biesemeyer fence. Didn't get the cast iron extension for the right, just a tableboard. Did get the ci extension left. The bies is a must for me, added a shark guard with a hose hanging from pipe above, that is great. Always rip with a splitter. Saves getting hit with a kickback. Had one one time with my old cman saw, not nearly as powerful, still whacked me hard.

Larry · April 01, 2012, 09:23:53 AM

Only one thing I'm sure about when it comes to table saws. The one advantage 5HP has over 3 is speed of cut in a production environment.

Last year I added a DeWalt sliding table to my Unisaw. That was a huge improvement. Makes my thoughts drift to a Euro saw with a big sliding table...but far out of my price range. Maybe an old Oliver with a sliding table, but than I would need a bigger shop. I'm not a Grizzly fan, but I see they now have a attractive selection of saws with sliding tables.

So many choices and the Powermatic is in the top tier of saws.

OneWithWood · April 01, 2012, 02:52:52 PM

Dustin,

I bought my PM2000 when the saw first came out. I have the 3hp 220v motor. If you are going to do any production work at all I would go for the 5hp. The 3hp with a thin kerf blade and power feed will do a lot but the 5hp will do it all easier. Do get a thin-kerf riving knife. Buy the powermatic accessory (Meir, I think) and the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls will fit just like the standard one. Also get a low profile riving knife for the times you do not make through cuts.
The router lift accessory is nice but I chose to go the separate router table route because the router table itself is much better than the extension table that comes with the PM2000.

Dustin · April 01, 2012, 03:53:05 PM

Thank you guys for all the comments already. When I first started looking for a saw, I made up my mind to buy 1 great cabinet saw that I hopefully will never have to replace. Right now I don't think I would do a lot of production, but by the time I retire it might change. So would it be better to just go with the 5 HP 1 PH over the 3 HP just in case? My goal is to have all my toys bought and paid for, so when I retire my wife don't want to kill me when I bring home a new tool. She is already on board with how much I want to spend because I have been saving for awhile now for it. She says its always "go big or go home" when it comes to me buying things.

The sawstop has some great technology but I believe God has already got a plan for me. I believe if its in his plan it will happen one way or another. If I am meant to live with out fingers someday that is his challenge to me and I will overcome it. I'm not cutting down the sawstop saw, but I think accidents are all part of a bigger plan that is made for us.

Dodgy Loner · April 02, 2012, 06:31:06 PM

I have a measly ol' Grizzly 3HP saw, so I can't comment on the relative merits of the Powermatic vs. the SawStop, but I will say that I have a router table built into the right wing of my tablesaw and I LOVE it. I have never seen or used a router table that is as flat and stable as the cast iron wing of my table saw. It was the perfect solution for me.

Brad_bb · April 02, 2012, 11:04:32 PM

I bought a 1953 Delta Unisaw about 4 years ago. It's in excellent condition as the original owner who had recently passed away, was an engineer who was a perfectionist and kept his equipment pristine.
After looking around at all the woodworkers I've met, and give how many are missing fingers, thumbs, and tips, I really don't want to end up losing mine. I'm getting ready to sell my Uni and buy a Sawstop. I don't have the illusion that it's idiot proof, but will give you an extra measure of protection. A couple thousand now vs. $5,000 and missing fingers later. $75 bucks for a replacement stop and buying a new blade is well worth the value of a finger. A thumb is worth 10 times what a finger is.

Al_Smith · April 03, 2012, 01:54:01 PM

In reference to a router I have a 3.5 HP plunge router mounted in one end of my table saw which with the wings fully extended is 8 feet wide .No problem using the opposite side of the fence as a guide for the router .It's got an oak board board screwed to the fence on the router side .

The saw is vintage 1968 sold by Sears and made by who knows .4 HP single phase direct drive 12" .Cast iron top ,heavey rascal .

Dustin · April 04, 2012, 12:24:58 AM

With a 50" table how often would I need the whole table? For the guys that have the router as part of the table on the saw...does it ever seem like its in the way? Do you ever have the router set up and then have to change it to saw a board and then set the router back up?
Last night I tried finding prices for a Sawstop to compare price to the Powermatic. I'm starting to lean towards the 5 HP since its not a whole lot more and just because I might need it some day. Does anyone have a good website that I could compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges?

WDH · April 04, 2012, 08:23:24 AM

In the 5 HP range, the sawstop is not very much more than the powermatic.

Larry · April 04, 2012, 08:56:53 AM

Quote from: Dustin on April 04, 2012, 12:24:58 AM
With a 50" table how often would I need the whole table?

Takes up a lot of real estate in a small shop. I had one on my Uni and cut it down after a couple of years.

redbeard · April 04, 2012, 07:05:13 PM

I have used this set up for many years I like to have a work table same height as all machines helps when your working by your self. 50" fence is very handy.

Clam77 · April 04, 2012, 08:50:01 PM

Nice looking setup Redbeard!!

WDH · April 04, 2012, 09:51:49 PM

It sure is! And the Exit is clearly marked. You are a man that pays attention to details ;D.

Dustin · April 04, 2012, 11:45:55 PM

I couldn't find any prices for the Sawstop online. I might have to do some calling tomorrow to find out the price. I have a 30 by 50 garage so space isn't to much of a problem now until the kids get older and take over the whole thing. Redbeard I wish I had a workshop like that!

redbeard · April 05, 2012, 01:12:20 AM

Thanks for the compliments, The saw stop 3 hp with extention and biesenmeyer fence runs around 1500. Very nice saw and is very similar to delta unisaw. Powermatic table saws are a nice saw also, if you plan on not moving the saw and the saw will be stationary powermatic is the heaviest of the three. Delta made some nice unisaws in the mid 70s heavy duty and built very accurate. You can find them still and they hold there value. The saw stop are the future and saftey is worth it.

DouginUtah · April 05, 2012, 02:37:29 AM

Quote from: Dustin on April 04, 2012, 11:45:55 PM
I couldn't find any prices for the Sawstop online.

http://www.toolking.com/tools/industrial-shop-machinery-and-equipment/table-saws-stationary/sawstop-saws

List price of the cabinet saw with 36" table and T-Glide Fence is $4784.98. Toolking sells it for $2899.99.

Sawstops business model was originally to coerce all tablesaw manufacturers to include their invention on every tablesaw. They failed to get that done so they eventually resorted to manufacturing their own saw.

SwampDonkey · April 05, 2012, 06:23:00 AM

Redbeard your shop is awesome. Just had to say it.

mikerat · April 05, 2012, 11:51:56 PM

Please tell me I'm wrong, this wouldn't be the first time I have missed something. How does the SAW STOP make you safer? I was a firearms instructor for many years and can tell you that a safety on a gun never made anyone safe! It's a mechanical device that can fail, you can also by-pass the safety on the SAW STOP if you are sawing wet wood which could trip the charge and stop the blade. What if you fail to turn it back on? So now you have this safer tool in your shop what about all of the other tools. Sometimes new Deputies put on their new body armor and think there safe, guess what? I have looked at the SAW STOP and watched the demo in person, it's well built and the finish is first class what I liked the best is how well it picks up the saw dust. It's a great saw but only you can make yourself safe. And for all the guys that have fingers missing there is a whole bunch that still have theirs, the have safe mind sets.

Mike R

Dan_Shade · April 06, 2012, 12:41:23 AM

the sawstop defaults to the "safe" mode. You have to actively bypass the safety circuit each time you power on the saw.

I somewhat agree that the sawstop technology is kind of like people driving like morons because they have airbags, but for my dollar, it really gives you peace of mind. Having used one for several years, I definately think more than I used to when I power on my old contractor saw.

The sawstop cabinet saw is a good saw, and if I were buying a new saw today, it would be the 5hp professional cabinet saw.