Author Topic: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN" (Read 65235 times)

AtLast · « **on:** February 22, 2004, 05:28:58 PM »

I just went to buy a new STIHL. They assembled it at the store and the mechanic filled it wil gas and oil and started it. He than commenced to run it at full throttle, goosin it repeatedly. Personally I dont run a new saw at full throttle right outta the box. but than again I dont baby it either. I was curious what most of you feel is the " proper break-in" process

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2004, 06:25:00 PM »

Stihl's break in consists of the instruction NOT to run the saw at full throttle out of cut for the first three tank fillings. This allows time for the engine parts to "bed in". They also say that max power develops between 5 and 15 tanks of gas.

Which is to say, just get the saw, cut with it, and don't rev the hell out of it out of cut. Goosing the throttle a bit won't kill it, but sustaining highest revs isn't good for it yet (and some would say it never is). I broke my new Stihl in ripping some unsplittable poplar stumps. Haven't had any trouble at all with the saw subsequently.

Stihl manual also says to start the saw with the brake on, which i don't do, so I guess I'm going to chainsaw hell.

Corley5 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2004, 07:02:42 PM »

Break 'em in like you're gonna run 'em. Any new saw I've had went right to work with no consideration given to break in. Wide open throttle with no load isn't good on any saw.

Jeff · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2004, 07:18:44 PM »

If I could find the Stihl documentation that said not to do what he did I would say give me another saw just for priciple of the thing.

We used to have a mechanic, and the key words are "used to have" that when he got done with an overhaul of a deisel, he would mat the thing and hold it there. He said if he did it right it would hold up, if not it would come apart. One time one come apart with a loss of what I was told was nearly 12,000 in jugs pistons crank and turbo.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2004, 08:21:25 PM »

man $12000 in parts down the drain, I think I'd be pretty POd with a tech who cost me that much in repairs. As for saw break in, I just take it out fire it up, and cut. Thats all I see as necessary on a chainsaw, but then again, if it were something important like a swiss watch I think I would baby it more than I do. I NEVER start a saw with the chainbrake on, I have a tendancy to forget its on and try to cut with the thin engaged. I get plenty of work done, when I disengage the chainbrake

I would just as soon upgrade the system on my saw to stop the chain when my right hand comes off the rear handle, or when I set it manually. It just gets in my way, besides anywhere that kickback is a high risk, I start the cut at about 3/8 throttle, then I have a little bit more control over the beastly saw.

tshanefreeman · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2004, 09:18:01 PM »

When talking about the pros and cons of pre-setting the chain brake ................... just remember that for a 'warning' sticker or 'advisory' note to exist ......... someone has already had to make the mistake!

For the second it takes to set and unset the brake, it may save a trip to the ER.

Artimus · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2004, 10:14:43 PM »

S-man is correct about what Stihl recommends for break in procedure. In the service manual they say that the carbs are set rich and can be leaned out after break in, but most are set perfect out of the box. On larger pro saws they also say to tighten the cyl base screws after the first 10 hrs use.

When you set up a new unit for a customer, you HAVE to run WOT at least for a little while, otherwise you won't know if the carb is set right. Not many problems with new Stihl saws, but Echos tend to lean out after break in.

Tom · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2004, 05:11:30 AM »

Welcome to the forum Artimus.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2004, 07:02:21 AM »

Tshane - I appreciate what you're saying - but I start my saw on the ground if it's cold, with a foot in the handle, and just drop start it in the run position hot, so it doesn't take off. I honestly think that the panic induced by having to quickly tweak the throttle and then disengage the brake is more likely to get me hurt than the possibility of, well, of what? Of falling on the saw when I pull the rope? Like you say, the stickers are there for a reason, but then, the manual also says that "a chainsaw should never be carried with the engine running." which makes cutting down trees quite tough.

Corley5 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2004, 07:54:05 AM »

The only time I start a saw with the brake set is if it got bumped in transit and was set with out me knowing it. You ever have a saw that doesn't want to start and hold on to the rear handle with the throttle open and pull the rope with your other hand? Not recommended but it works

You gotta be ready to grab the handlebar when it fires up at

. As for starting a saw on the ground with a foot through the rear handle that's a good idea if your feet are small enough to fit through it. Mine aren't with summer work boots on let alone winter ones

. I know a guy who rebuilds small block Chevys now and then and as soon as that engine fires up it's right to the mat. I was at his place once when he first fired up one he'd just finished. He held it to the floor then backed out of the shop, put it in gear and there was gravel flying. He tore up and down the road a few times with it brought it back and said it was broke in. That engine ran a long time outlasting that truck and being transplanted to another. That's not how I'd do it but it seems to work for him. Break 'em in like you're gonna drive 'em

wood_bucker · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2004, 08:20:36 AM »

If i bought a new saw and saw the mech break it in like that ..I wood(sp hehe) shop else where.For one thing ,if he built the saw and started it the first time all the while you were there then it cant be too good of a shop.The saw should have been already to go upon your arival to get it.Unless you just like to have a saw in you shed to look at time spent waiting for it is dollars gone from your pocket.Like others have said ,just use the saw as normal without prolonged revs and after three to five tanks the saw should last for many hours of dependable operation
btw...good site ...i am new here but have enjoyed reading the posts so far..l8r

Hunter · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2004, 02:01:34 PM »

I brake mine in alot differant than that. I personally use a 32:1 or 40:1 premix with a good synthetic lube, I start the saw and let it run on fast idle for about 10-20 minutes. The I go out and wrap the saw once or twice.Then let it sit and idle for the rest of the tank.
usually by then the rings are seated.
Hunter

AtLast · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM »

Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell. That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2004, 05:52:15 PM »

Idling a saw for a long time just mucks up the muffler and spark arrestor, according to most of the folks I've talked to.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2004, 01:36:23 PM »

Idling a saw for a long time also has this odd tendancy to build up excess 2cycle oil in the crank case, which will eventually cause it to stall. I have the problem all the time with my saws, it aint very convenient to pick up an idling saw, then go to rev it up only to have it stall on you, I get so irritated by that I just wanna scream sometimes. Then again, IF you dont let your saw idle for too long, this post should be completely and totally ignored

. I havent ever seen the muffler and spark arrester screen get all screwy from idling a saw too long,

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2004, 02:01:42 PM »

Oldsaw, there was a picture posted on another forum, of a saw with black gunk drooling out the muffler, and the guy was concerned because it was brand new saw and he'd idled it a tank or two, and what was this muck? Mix oil, unburned.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2004, 02:14:22 PM »

AtLast,
As a former chainsaw mechanic, I too would run a new saw full throttle and goose it a few times, because that is the only way to check the mixture settings on the carburetor. It would be nice to have just left them a bit too rich and have the customer bring the saw in the next week for final adjustment, but most didn't have the time for that extra trip. Never had a saw blow up from doing it and don't recall those saws having any particular problems down the road from those revs. I din't hold it wide open for long, just enough to make the adjustments.

Oldsaw,
I bought a new saw this winter for a job that the saw had to sit idling for a couple of minutes, rev up to make one short cut and then back to idling. After a couple of weeks it wouldn't idle and had no power for the cut. i took the muffler apart and the spark arrestor was so full of carbon you couldn't see through it. I left it out and the saw runs better than ever.

AtLast · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2004, 03:04:18 PM »

Minnesota_boy,
well I thank you kindly sir, coming from a mechanic i would tend to follow your advise. I still cant see to many people in this type of work having the time to "break in" a saw. Again im confident its all good....but needed to know if this was just me or a typical practice.

Corley5 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2004, 03:22:19 PM »

Oldsaw,
Listen and learn from what these REAL rednecks have to say

AtLast · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2004, 09:19:00 AM »

Now theres a blanket statement.....i was-a thinkin we's was all rednecks inna 1 ways er a tuther.....

1 thing I noticed on this STIHL MS440...was that it ran outta fuel b4 it ran outta bar oil...I has tinkered with the oil setting on the bottom of the saw but it still runs outta gas first. I also wanted to put a more aggessive chain on it. Is there some simple "tweeking" I can do to get a bit more power to the chain?

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #20 on:** February 27, 2004, 10:20:52 AM »

Atlast, the Stihl's run out of fuel first so you aren't cutting without bar oil. fill the fuel tank, fill the oil tank. You'll never cut dry that way.

isawlogs · « **Reply #21 on:** February 27, 2004, 06:51:45 PM »

Atlas
Your saw should run out of gas first, ifnot you would be puting alot of unwanted strain on your chain and bar from lack of oil.... I have 6 Stihl saws and all of them are like that and would not have it any other way...
As far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out w. o. t . out of wood
All of my saws where bought new a few years ago (long story made short ROBBERS ) And all of them where tried out at the shop just like you said I did not have a problem with what they did because of the way they did it ....They wot the saw but only for a very very short time only to make sure of the settings

VA-Sawyer · « **Reply #22 on:** February 28, 2004, 08:54:56 PM »

Hate to tell you all this but, rings won't "seat" during idle. By design, compression rings use the pressure in the combustion chamber to force the rings to expand tighter against the cylinder walls. There just isn't enough pressure during idle to cause any expansion. No expansion...No seating.
People that let new 4 stroke engines idle too much can glaze the cylinder walls. Those engines will be "oil-burners" till the cylinders are re-honed. As all 2 strokes are oil burners to begin with, then a glazed cylinder doesn't show up as a big problem.
As for the WOT thing. I have no problem with a short run at WOT to check the mixture settings. After that I would try to avoid WOT out of the cut. The higher the rpm the greater the heat of friction. The rough surfaces of new parts have greater friction than smoother worn in parts. At high RPM's the higher temps caused by the friction of rougher surfaces can cause microscopic melting of metal surfaces. This leads to metal swapping, otherwise known as galling. You want new parts to polish together, not weld together. Truth is that max RPM's without a load is pretty hard on most engines. There are a lot of dynamic vibration problems in doing that.
Bottom line...Don't baby it. Don't overrev it. Break it in like you are going to run it, except, I like to add a little extra oil to the first tank because of the extra friction with new parts.
VA-Sawyer

AtLast · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2004, 12:21:28 PM »

VERY well said VA......pretty much how I did it too....I just couldnt see " babying" it....I bought it to put it to work....VERY interesting expansion point though...does that explain the puff of smoke on enitial rev?

Brian_B. · « **Reply #24 on:** December 28, 2004, 06:32:52 AM »

I have never needed a saw until now and I am in the process of picking it out.
I have run several Remote Control Airplane and Car Engines. They are also air cooled Two Stroke’s and they run on a Methanol blended fuel. It is standard practice on those types of engines to run several tanks of fuel before you actually play with them. I was taught to NOT let the throttle stay in one place very long to rev up NOT MORE Than 3/4 Throttle and down repeatedly for the first few tanks. The raising and lowering of the engine temp would break-in the engine correctly.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #25 on:** December 28, 2004, 09:00:10 AM »

I let the saw warm up for a minute or so then run it about half throttle to ensure the oiler is doing its thing. I won't run any saw at WOT without load. Last time I did that, the clutch spun off and disappeared for parts unknown

hydro2 · « **Reply #26 on:** December 31, 2004, 08:07:31 PM »

I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!

HeartMahPoulanz · « **Reply #27 on:** June 22, 2020, 02:32:27 PM »

Quote from: Hunter on February 25, 2004, 02:01:34 PM

I brake mine in alot differant than that. I personally use a 32:1 or 40:1 premix with a good synthetic lube, I start the saw and let it run on fast idle for about 10-20 minutes. The I go out and wrap the saw once or twice.Then let it sit and idle for the rest of the tank.
usually by then the rings are seated.
Hunter

For what it's worth, this is NOT good idea according to the Stihl-rep I spoke with. I had just bought a new 194t (thank gods the same rep got the store to allow return of the never-cut-with 194t, I went and got a 355t w/ same exact $$ and am happy a as pig-in-[I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] now

), was on-phone with a Stihl rep and topic of its break-in / its use-so-far came up, I said yes, that is the 194t running in-background, 45:1 motomix and hpUltra, running on idle through tank #2 right now (I knew they're chipped and thankfully had the tach on it so knew all my figures, not that they checked but still- have since learned that Echo encourages you to take-home their gear-- 7-day, you-can-use-it return policy, blows my mind I mean I guess it's cool people aren't dicks enough to go 'borrowing' 2511's all the time and returning them... ) AAaanyway, guy on-phone from Stihl said to go rev it real quick then turn it off, he said that when it's just idling it is not cooling itself fully so that's not ideal he said you should be using it but just not 'going hard', not doing extended cuts, and not full-throttling outside of wood. Have also read (on forums) that it's best to see the engine more as "2-states" (as opposed to, say, a car, wherein you've got the throttle's whole power-band in-use through routine driving), 1=idling and 2=full-throttle....that 'bedding-in'/setting of the piston/jug happens very quickly and your best approach is to full-throttle(in wood!!) very hard, then idle, never "pushing" it but making it so all its use is full-throttle or idle, not playing-around through the power-band or doing half-ass cuts with it....sounds like your ideal 'setup' would be a big-ass piece of wood you could 'bury' the bar in, hard enough that you don't bog it but full-throttle and pushing it a bit, then let it sit and idle there a lil, repeat a couple times and let unit cool. Repeat procedure from here.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re higher-oil-% I can't find a good answer, the Stihl guy said my 45:1 was only increasing carbon buildup and (via email after registering my 355t) echo told me it was of no value for me to be oiling-up their Red Armor to 45:1 (only use R.Armor w/ my 355t) Wish I could get a 'final word' on this, have finally finished rebuilding a snapped-in-half ppt266(echo pole saw 25cc extendable) and ready to play with/mod the engine but thing doesn't have H&L jets (never seen this before, never had a petrol pole before though and will not possess a string-trimmer/edger!!) so no idea what to do, muff and air-intake are so choked-up but unlike the 355t I can't just open them and then open H&L so the mixture is safe to run / not overly lean, just removing some of the muff's restrictions has me worried I could be running-lean now...though the powerhead doesn't get NEARLY as hot and all I did was remove the spark-arrester and its 'restricter-plate' ie the plate that pegs-on the arrester and usually has some lil slit in it!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Would LOVE to know more about oil% ^^^, with my 266 I have a new spark-plug but haven't installed it as I figure I should be safe and run it 40:1(or thicker) so as to make-up for the extra airflow from exhaust-restriction-removal, know this is going to hurt power as the average "bang" in the jug is now higher air% with fuel that's higher-oil% but despite less bang-per-stroke it should be the same oil through my engine per-stroke, right? IE it's running weaker, but just-as-lubed, on the more-air, 37:1 mix? (I use only good, canned fuels so should be getting max 'bang' per ounce of starting/base petrol here!)

btulloh · « **Reply #28 on:** June 22, 2020, 02:50:06 PM »

Welcome to the Forestry Forum HMP. You’ll f ind this to be good source of info And helpful, knowledgeable people.

You probably now hold the record for responding to a very old post. Certainly not a problem, sometimes it even revives an old thread for a while.

Once again, welcome and enjoy your stay here.

HeartMahPoulanz · « **Reply #29 on:** June 22, 2020, 02:56:12 PM »

oh btw that carb w/o knobs is a 'zama rb-k112', fwiw! Noticed on my 'dissection unit', an echo pole-string-trimmer, that the carb on that also had no H&L screws...it's like they don't use them on these types of units, can't understand why such a different carb-approach (though I'll say this old 266 purrs in a way my new 355t never did!)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re using my current spark-plug while running rich fuels, does it negate using the plug to tell me about the engine I inherited here? This is my go-to image for spark-plug-reading: 0ff Site photo link deleted by ADMIN

Quote from: isawlogs on February 27, 2004, 06:51:45 PM

As far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out w. o. t . out of wood

Hell yeah!!

Quote from: hydro2 on December 31, 2004, 08:07:31 PM

I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!

Anyone have any tips how to start testing a non-functional pole-saw cutter-head(echo PPT266)'s oiler? Since it's not same clutch- hell I'm actually uncertain/intrigued at where the ADMIN LANGUAGE EDIT clutch is IE how does this thing *stop* if I, say, buried it with a raker-less chain? Have been assuming it's base of drive-shafts, where they interface to the engine/powerhead? Anyway am blown-away at both pricing, and parts availability(and ease & diagrams etc etc) for the parts for this discontinued polesaw so ready to replace the oiler if needed but have never seen this type of oiler before as I've never used these before...here's a pic of the powerhead if it helps, maybe someone here will know something for me

My only thought is 'pour solvents into there, blast carb-cleaner spray into the bar's-oiler-hole on the cutter-head, hopefully the force dislodges/clears the pathway at best, or exposes leak at worst' though am not expecting a leak, had an empty tank when I got it and I put good bar-oil in there and it's dispensed none.
Cutter-head, its drive-sprocket seems to just be spun by 'worm-gear' / side-contact-spinning with the driveshaft:
More Off Site photo's and photo links deleted by Admin.

Expect some pressurized-solvents has a good chance but would be nice to have another trick up my sleeve if it doesn't get it lubing my chain, realllly wanna take this guy to a job

Jeff · « **Reply #30 on:** June 22, 2020, 04:29:11 PM »

There will be no welcome from me until you knock the foul language off. You might also have a chance at the record for how quick you get a forever ban. Knock it off.

longtime lurker · « **Reply #31 on:** June 23, 2020, 11:00:17 AM »

Fuel saw, start saw, rev it a little to get oil around the bar, kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel.
Kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel.

In other words I take no special care with a new saw whatsoever. If it flies apart (never happened to me yet) I'm going to take it back and be leaving the dealers with the next one... s'why I filled out the warranty card.

Real1shepherd · « **Reply #32 on:** June 23, 2020, 09:31:10 PM »

They used to tell us breaking in big cc Swede saws...run them like you're gonna use them. Which of course, is not WOT out of the cut. There's no reason to do that anyway except briefly to tune..

And yes, when first cold let the saw warm up a minute or so. A lot of saws have been killed because they were started cold and plunged right into work. Everyone can afford to wait a minute or so.

Kevin

Air Lad · « **Reply #33 on:** June 26, 2020, 03:34:05 AM »

Yes. I like to start them, give a few little squirts to establish a good idle and sit them on the ground for a bit while I pre meditate how the task will unfold. This is also a safety issue as in not going into a tricky job without plenty of thought. 2 /3 mins later the moving bits are all up to temp and good to go.
Most engine wear happens at cold start or shortly after

HeartMahPoulanz · « **Reply #34 on:** August 11, 2020, 07:03:42 PM »

@Jeff I'm very sorry I usually go out of my way to write "PITB" and don't know what got into me, wish I knew what the offensive word was as I can't figure it out on-context...also see I've got 2 warnings for linking to off-site content, I hope you don't think I ignored one warning & posted another link I simply did not see the 1st.

Always find bad language bothersome myself so am embarrassed to be called on it but can tell you that is the last of it, sorry you had to waste time editing it (and editing-out my link to picture, am so used to forums wanting to save-space and preferring off-site that I didn't get it...) Am going to go check out the TOU as I like this forum a lot and don't wanna ruffle any feathers here!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Re break-in's / tunes - and if I should make a new thread for this then by all means please let me know but seems a tuning thing to me and it'll be new 'break-in' once mods are done - but on my recently resurrected polesaw (echo 266), I modified the airbox, went to do the muffler and noticed its zama rb-k11 carb had no H&L screws!! So now I'm just leaving all the muff's restricter plating / baffling in-place, see two outcomes here:

- adjusting the zama rb-k11 isn't as-dangerous as I've been led to believe, or
- the choice to run this machine lean (ie do the mods and simply leave the factory tuning, I use canned fuel so it'll help a lil & I'll bump to 45:1 oil, see how long the more-powerful, but lean + lower-longevity, unit lasts at that point (have wanted to test this, have heard that running lean - especially moderately-lean, not super-lean - isn't remotely as serious as most believe it to be!!

Al_Smith · « **Reply #35 on:** August 13, 2020, 09:58:16 AM »

If you do a rebuild with a used cylinder and new rings it takes some run time for the rings to seat .They will in time .Having said that on a rebuild I flog them in the cut but don't dead stick them out of the cut .What's the point to that any way ? Couple tanks, carb set rich then lean it out and cut wood with gusto if it's tuned right .BTW I too have spun a clutch off once .Shot down my driveway about 100 miles per hour heading for Canada .As luck would have the clutch didn't release from the drum,I found it .Never ran one again fresh from a rebuild without a bar and chain .

Real1shepherd · « **Reply #36 on:** August 13, 2020, 08:13:41 PM »

Quote from: AtLast on February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM

Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell. That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off

It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't baby a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin

Air Lad · « **Reply #37 on:** August 14, 2020, 04:02:26 AM »

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 13, 2020, 08:13:41 PM

Quote from: AtLast on February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM
Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell. That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off
It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't 'Admin language edit' a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin

Modern engines are built to such fine tollerances these days that break in is hardly applicable. Having said that there is nothing wrong with going easy with a new machine for a short period while all the moving parts and lubrication get to know each other. Most warranty and out of warranty issues would not be related to the users first tank or two. More likely parts malfunction or user abuse . $00.02

Ianab · « **Reply #38 on:** August 14, 2020, 05:14:57 AM »

If your saw dies in the the first month of use, they don't ask questions like "Did you cut down a tree?"

It's fuel / oil mix?
Did you putz with it?

Otherwise it was basically faulty from the factory.

OK, It's possible to abuse a saw, but laying it on a log and giving it full noise isn't one of them.

Air Lad · « **Reply #39 on:** August 15, 2020, 07:17:28 PM »

By abuse I meant no oil in mix

Al_Smith · « **Reply #40 on:** August 16, 2020, 09:07:33 AM »

Straight gas will cause one of two things .Either a new saw or practice at rebuilding a two cycle engine .

Forestry ForumSponsored by:

Author Topic: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN" (Read 65235 times)

Forestry Forum
Sponsored by: