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Author Topic: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"  (Read 62020 times)

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Offline SasquatchMan

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2004, 10:20:52 AM »
Atlast, the Stihl's run out of fuel first so you aren't cutting without bar oil.  fill the fuel tank, fill the oil tank.  You'll never cut dry that way.
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Offline isawlogs

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2004, 06:51:45 PM »
 Atlas
  Your saw should run out of gas first, ifnot you would be puting alot of unwanted strain on your chain and bar from lack of oil.... I have 6 Stihl saws and all of them are like that and would not have it any other way...
  As far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out  w. o. t .  out of wood
 All of my saws where bought new a few years ago (long story made short ROBBERS ) And all of them where tried out at the shop just like you said I did not have a problem with what they did because of the way they did it ....They wot the saw but only for a very very short time only to make sure of the settings
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Offline VA-Sawyer

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2004, 08:54:56 PM »
Hate to tell you all this but, rings won't "seat"  during idle. By design, compression rings use the pressure in the combustion chamber to force the rings to expand tighter against the cylinder walls. There just isn't enough pressure during idle to cause any expansion. No expansion...No seating.
People that let new 4 stroke engines idle too much can glaze the cylinder walls. Those engines will be "oil-burners" till the cylinders are re-honed. As all 2 strokes are oil burners to begin with, then a glazed cylinder doesn't show up as a big problem.
As for the WOT thing. I have no problem with a short run at WOT to check the mixture settings. After that I would try to avoid WOT out of the cut. The higher the rpm the greater the heat of friction. The rough surfaces of new parts have greater friction than smoother worn in parts. At high RPM's the higher temps caused by the friction of rougher surfaces can cause microscopic melting of metal surfaces. This leads to metal swapping, otherwise known as galling. You want new parts to polish together, not weld together. Truth is that max RPM's without a load is pretty hard on most engines. There are a lot of dynamic vibration problems in doing that.
Bottom line...Don't baby it. Don't overrev it. Break it in like you are going to run it, except, I like to add a little extra oil to the first tank because of the extra friction with new parts.
VA-Sawyer

Offline AtLast

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #23 on: March 03, 2004, 12:21:28 PM »
VERY well said VA......pretty much how I did it too....I just couldnt see " babying" it....I bought it to put it to work....VERY interesting expansion point though...does that explain the puff of smoke on enitial rev?

Offline Brian_B.

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #24 on: December 28, 2004, 06:32:52 AM »
I have never needed a saw until now and I am in the process of picking it out.
I have run several Remote Control Airplane and Car Engines. They are also air cooled Two Strokes and they run on a Methanol blended fuel. It is standard practice on those types of engines to run several tanks of fuel before you actually play with them. I was taught to NOT let the throttle stay in one place very long to rev up NOT MORE Than 3/4 Throttle and down repeatedly for the first few tanks. The raising and lowering of the engine temp would break-in the engine correctly.
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Offline sawguy21

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #25 on: December 28, 2004, 09:00:10 AM »
I let the saw warm up for a minute or so then run it about half throttle to ensure the oiler is doing its thing. I won't run any saw at WOT without load. Last time I did that, the clutch spun off and disappeared for parts unknown
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Offline hydro2

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #26 on: December 31, 2004, 08:07:31 PM »
I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!
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Offline HeartMahPoulanz

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #27 on: June 22, 2020, 02:32:27 PM »
I brake mine in alot differant than that. I personally use a 32:1 or 40:1 premix with a good synthetic lube, I start the saw and let it run on fast idle for about 10-20 minutes. The I go out and wrap the saw once or twice.Then let it sit and idle for the rest of the tank.
usually by then the rings are seated.
Hunter
For what it's worth, this is NOT  good idea according to the Stihl-rep I spoke with.  I had just bought a new 194t (thank gods the same rep got the store to allow return of the never-cut-with 194t, I went and got a 355t w/ same exact $$ and am happy a as pig-in-[I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] now ;D ), was on-phone with a Stihl rep and topic of its break-in / its use-so-far came up, I said yes, that is the 194t running in-background, 45:1 motomix and hpUltra, running on idle through tank #2 right now (I knew they're chipped and thankfully had the tach on it so knew all my figures, not that they checked but still- have since learned that Echo encourages you to take-home their gear-- 7-day, you-can-use-it return policy, blows my mind I mean I guess it's cool people aren't dicks enough to go 'borrowing' 2511's all the time and returning them... ) AAaanyway, guy on-phone from Stihl said to go rev it real quick then turn it off, he said that when it's just idling it is not cooling itself fully so that's not ideal he said you should be using it but just not 'going hard', not doing extended cuts, and not full-throttling outside of wood.  Have also read (on forums) that it's best to see the engine more as "2-states" (as opposed to, say, a car, wherein you've got the throttle's whole power-band in-use through routine driving), 1=idling and 2=full-throttle....that 'bedding-in'/setting of the piston/jug happens very quickly and your best approach is to full-throttle(in wood!!) very hard, then idle, never "pushing" it but making it so all its use is full-throttle or idle, not playing-around through the power-band or doing half-ass cuts with it....sounds like your ideal 'setup' would be a big-ass piece of wood you could 'bury' the bar in, hard enough that you don't bog it but full-throttle and pushing it a bit, then let it sit and idle there a lil, repeat a couple times and let unit cool.  Repeat procedure from here. 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re higher-oil-% I can't find a good answer, the Stihl guy said my 45:1 was only increasing carbon buildup and (via email after registering my 355t) echo told me it was of no value for me to be oiling-up their Red Armor to 45:1 (only use R.Armor w/ my 355t)  Wish I could get a 'final word' on this, have finally finished rebuilding a snapped-in-half ppt266(echo pole saw 25cc extendable) and ready to play with/mod the engine but thing doesn't have H&L jets (never seen this before, never had a petrol pole before though and will not possess a string-trimmer/edger!!) so no idea what to do, muff and air-intake are so choked-up but unlike the 355t I can't just open them and then open H&L so the mixture is safe to run / not overly lean, just removing some of the muff's restrictions has me worried I could be running-lean now...though the powerhead doesn't get NEARLY as hot and all I did was remove the spark-arrester and its 'restricter-plate' ie the plate that pegs-on the arrester and usually has some lil slit in it!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Would LOVE to know more about oil% ^^^, with my 266 I have a new spark-plug but haven't installed it as I figure I should be safe and run it 40:1(or thicker) so as to make-up for the extra airflow from exhaust-restriction-removal, know this is going to hurt power as the average "bang" in the jug is now higher air% with fuel that's higher-oil% but despite less bang-per-stroke it should be the same oil through my engine per-stroke, right?  IE it's running weaker, but just-as-lubed, on the more-air, 37:1 mix?  (I use only good, canned fuels so should be getting max 'bang' per ounce of starting/base petrol here!)

Offline btulloh

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2020, 02:50:06 PM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum HMP.  Youll f ind this to be good source of info And helpful, knowledgeable people. 

You probably now hold the record for responding to a very old post. Certainly not a problem, sometimes it even revives an old thread for a while. 

Once again, welcome and enjoy your stay here. 
HM126

Offline HeartMahPoulanz

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2020, 02:56:12 PM »
oh btw that carb w/o knobs is a 'zama rb-k112', fwiw!  Noticed on my 'dissection unit', an echo pole-string-trimmer, that the carb on that also had no H&L screws...it's like they don't use them on these types of units, can't understand why such a different carb-approach (though I'll say this old 266 purrs in a way my new 355t never did!)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re using my current spark-plug while running rich fuels, does it negate using the plug to tell me about the engine I inherited here?  This is my go-to image for spark-plug-reading: 0ff Site photo link deleted by ADMIN


As far as breacking a saw in its like whats been said put it to work but with out w. o. t . out of wood
Hell yeah!!

I certainly would think you would want it to run out of gas before it runs out or oil, otherwise you will be smoking your bar!!! DAH!!!!!!!
Anyone have any tips how to start testing a non-functional pole-saw cutter-head(echo PPT266)'s oiler? Since it's not same clutch- hell I'm actually uncertain/intrigued at where the ADMIN LANGUAGE EDIT clutch is IE how does this thing *stop* if I, say, buried it with a raker-less chain?  Have been assuming it's base of drive-shafts, where they interface to the engine/powerhead? Anyway am blown-away at both pricing, and parts availability(and ease & diagrams etc etc) for the parts for this discontinued polesaw so ready to replace the oiler if needed but have never seen this type of oiler before as I've never used these before...here's a pic of the powerhead if it helps, maybe someone here will know something for me :) My only thought is 'pour solvents into there, blast carb-cleaner spray into the bar's-oiler-hole on the cutter-head, hopefully the force dislodges/clears the pathway at best, or exposes leak at worst' though am not expecting a leak, had an empty tank when I got it and I put good bar-oil in there and it's dispensed none.
Cutter-head, its drive-sprocket seems to just be spun by 'worm-gear' / side-contact-spinning with the driveshaft:
More Off Site photo's and photo links deleted by Admin.

Expect some pressurized-solvents has a good chance but would be nice to have another trick up my sleeve if it doesn't get it lubing my chain, realllly wanna take this guy to a job ;D

Online Jeff

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #30 on: June 22, 2020, 04:29:11 PM »
There will be no welcome from me until you knock the foul language off. You might also have a chance at the record for how quick you get a forever ban. Knock it off.
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Offline longtime lurker

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #31 on: June 23, 2020, 11:00:17 AM »
Fuel saw, start saw, rev it a little to get oil around the bar, kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel. 
Kill tree, kill tree, kill tree, sharpen, refuel.

In other words I take no special care with a new saw whatsoever. If it flies apart (never happened to me yet) I'm going to take it back and be leaving the dealers with the next one... s'why I filled out the warranty card.
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Offline Real1shepherd

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #32 on: June 23, 2020, 09:31:10 PM »
They used to tell us breaking in big cc Swede saws...run them like you're gonna use them. Which of course, is not WOT out of the cut. There's no reason to do that anyway except briefly to tune..

And yes, when first cold let the saw warm up a minute or so. A lot of saws have been killed because they were started cold and plunged right into work. Everyone can afford to wait a minute or so.

Kevin


Offline Air Lad

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #33 on: June 26, 2020, 03:34:05 AM »
Yes. I like to start them, give a few little squirts to establish a good idle and sit them on the ground for a bit while I pre meditate how the task will unfold. This is also a safety issue as in not going into a tricky job without plenty of thought. 2 /3 mins later the moving bits are all up to temp and good to go.
Most engine wear happens at cold start or shortly after

Offline HeartMahPoulanz

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #34 on: August 11, 2020, 07:03:42 PM »
@Jeff I'm very sorry I usually go out of my way to write "PITB" and don't know what got into me, wish I knew what the offensive word was as I can't figure it out on-context...also see I've got 2 warnings for linking to off-site content, I hope you don't think I ignored one warning & posted another link I simply did not see the 1st.

Always find bad language bothersome myself so am embarrassed to be called on it but can tell you that is the last of it, sorry you had to waste time editing it (and editing-out my link to picture, am so used to forums wanting to save-space and preferring off-site that I didn't get it...)  Am going to go check out the TOU as I like this forum a lot and don't wanna ruffle any feathers here!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Re break-in's / tunes - and if I should make a new thread for this then by all means please let me know but seems a tuning thing to me and it'll be new 'break-in' once mods are done - but on my recently resurrected polesaw (echo 266), I modified the airbox, went to do the muffler and noticed its zama rb-k11 carb had no H&L screws!!  So now I'm just leaving all the muff's restricter plating / baffling in-place, see two outcomes here:

- adjusting the zama rb-k11 isn't as-dangerous as I've been led to believe, or
- the choice to run this machine lean (ie do the mods and simply leave the factory tuning, I use canned fuel so it'll help a lil & I'll bump to 45:1 oil, see how long the more-powerful, but lean + lower-longevity, unit lasts at that point (have wanted to test this, have heard that running lean - especially moderately-lean, not super-lean - isn't remotely as serious as most believe it to be!!

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #35 on: August 13, 2020, 09:58:16 AM »
If you do a rebuild with a used cylinder and new rings it takes some run time for the rings to seat .They will in time .Having said that on a rebuild I flog them in the cut but don't dead stick them out of the cut .What's  the point to that any way ? Couple tanks, carb set rich then lean it out and cut wood with gusto if it's tuned right .BTW I too have spun a clutch off once .Shot down my driveway about 100 miles per hour heading for Canada .As luck would have the clutch didn't release  from the drum,I found it .Never ran one again fresh from a rebuild without  a bar and chain .

Offline Real1shepherd

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #36 on: August 13, 2020, 08:13:41 PM »
Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell.  That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off  ;D
It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't baby a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin

Offline Air Lad

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #37 on: August 14, 2020, 04:02:26 AM »
Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell.  That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off  ;D
It's a non-issue unless it specifically states in your OM a particular way the company wants you to break in their saw.
if not, run them like you're gonna use them...hard. Don't 'Admin language edit' a chainsaw.....it hasn't come to that yet even with the newer ones.

Incredibly bad JuJu to let them idle for long periods of time.......that's not within the design parameters of chainsaws.
Kevin
Modern engines are built to such fine tollerances these days that break in is hardly applicable. Having said that there is nothing wrong with going easy with a new machine for a short period while all the moving parts and lubrication get to know each other. Most warranty and out of warranty issues would not be related to the users first tank or two. More likely parts malfunction or user abuse . $00.02   ;)

Offline Ianab

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #38 on: August 14, 2020, 05:14:57 AM »
If your saw dies in the the first month of use, they don't ask questions like "Did you cut down a tree?" 

It's fuel / oil mix?
Did you putz with it?

Otherwise it was basically faulty from the factory. 

OK, It's possible to abuse a saw, but laying it on a log and giving it full noise isn't one of them.  ;D
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Offline Air Lad

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Re: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN"
« Reply #39 on: August 15, 2020, 07:17:28 PM »
By abuse I meant no oil in mix ;)


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