Author Topic: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN" (Read 65422 times)

AtLast · « **on:** February 22, 2004, 05:28:58 PM »

I just went to buy a new STIHL. They assembled it at the store and the mechanic filled it wil gas and oil and started it. He than commenced to run it at full throttle, goosin it repeatedly. Personally I dont run a new saw at full throttle right outta the box. but than again I dont baby it either. I was curious what most of you feel is the " proper break-in" process

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2004, 06:25:00 PM »

Stihl's break in consists of the instruction NOT to run the saw at full throttle out of cut for the first three tank fillings. This allows time for the engine parts to "bed in". They also say that max power develops between 5 and 15 tanks of gas.

Which is to say, just get the saw, cut with it, and don't rev the hell out of it out of cut. Goosing the throttle a bit won't kill it, but sustaining highest revs isn't good for it yet (and some would say it never is). I broke my new Stihl in ripping some unsplittable poplar stumps. Haven't had any trouble at all with the saw subsequently.

Stihl manual also says to start the saw with the brake on, which i don't do, so I guess I'm going to chainsaw hell.

Corley5 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2004, 07:02:42 PM »

Break 'em in like you're gonna run 'em. Any new saw I've had went right to work with no consideration given to break in. Wide open throttle with no load isn't good on any saw.

Jeff · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2004, 07:18:44 PM »

If I could find the Stihl documentation that said not to do what he did I would say give me another saw just for priciple of the thing.

We used to have a mechanic, and the key words are "used to have" that when he got done with an overhaul of a deisel, he would mat the thing and hold it there. He said if he did it right it would hold up, if not it would come apart. One time one come apart with a loss of what I was told was nearly 12,000 in jugs pistons crank and turbo.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2004, 08:21:25 PM »

man $12000 in parts down the drain, I think I'd be pretty POd with a tech who cost me that much in repairs. As for saw break in, I just take it out fire it up, and cut. Thats all I see as necessary on a chainsaw, but then again, if it were something important like a swiss watch I think I would baby it more than I do. I NEVER start a saw with the chainbrake on, I have a tendancy to forget its on and try to cut with the thin engaged. I get plenty of work done, when I disengage the chainbrake

I would just as soon upgrade the system on my saw to stop the chain when my right hand comes off the rear handle, or when I set it manually. It just gets in my way, besides anywhere that kickback is a high risk, I start the cut at about 3/8 throttle, then I have a little bit more control over the beastly saw.

tshanefreeman · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2004, 09:18:01 PM »

When talking about the pros and cons of pre-setting the chain brake ................... just remember that for a 'warning' sticker or 'advisory' note to exist ......... someone has already had to make the mistake!

For the second it takes to set and unset the brake, it may save a trip to the ER.

Artimus · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2004, 10:14:43 PM »

S-man is correct about what Stihl recommends for break in procedure. In the service manual they say that the carbs are set rich and can be leaned out after break in, but most are set perfect out of the box. On larger pro saws they also say to tighten the cyl base screws after the first 10 hrs use.

When you set up a new unit for a customer, you HAVE to run WOT at least for a little while, otherwise you won't know if the carb is set right. Not many problems with new Stihl saws, but Echos tend to lean out after break in.

Tom · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2004, 05:11:30 AM »

Welcome to the forum Artimus.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2004, 07:02:21 AM »

Tshane - I appreciate what you're saying - but I start my saw on the ground if it's cold, with a foot in the handle, and just drop start it in the run position hot, so it doesn't take off. I honestly think that the panic induced by having to quickly tweak the throttle and then disengage the brake is more likely to get me hurt than the possibility of, well, of what? Of falling on the saw when I pull the rope? Like you say, the stickers are there for a reason, but then, the manual also says that "a chainsaw should never be carried with the engine running." which makes cutting down trees quite tough.

Corley5 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2004, 07:54:05 AM »

The only time I start a saw with the brake set is if it got bumped in transit and was set with out me knowing it. You ever have a saw that doesn't want to start and hold on to the rear handle with the throttle open and pull the rope with your other hand? Not recommended but it works

You gotta be ready to grab the handlebar when it fires up at

. As for starting a saw on the ground with a foot through the rear handle that's a good idea if your feet are small enough to fit through it. Mine aren't with summer work boots on let alone winter ones

. I know a guy who rebuilds small block Chevys now and then and as soon as that engine fires up it's right to the mat. I was at his place once when he first fired up one he'd just finished. He held it to the floor then backed out of the shop, put it in gear and there was gravel flying. He tore up and down the road a few times with it brought it back and said it was broke in. That engine ran a long time outlasting that truck and being transplanted to another. That's not how I'd do it but it seems to work for him. Break 'em in like you're gonna drive 'em

wood_bucker · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2004, 08:20:36 AM »

If i bought a new saw and saw the mech break it in like that ..I wood(sp hehe) shop else where.For one thing ,if he built the saw and started it the first time all the while you were there then it cant be too good of a shop.The saw should have been already to go upon your arival to get it.Unless you just like to have a saw in you shed to look at time spent waiting for it is dollars gone from your pocket.Like others have said ,just use the saw as normal without prolonged revs and after three to five tanks the saw should last for many hours of dependable operation
btw...good site ...i am new here but have enjoyed reading the posts so far..l8r

Hunter · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2004, 02:01:34 PM »

I brake mine in alot differant than that. I personally use a 32:1 or 40:1 premix with a good synthetic lube, I start the saw and let it run on fast idle for about 10-20 minutes. The I go out and wrap the saw once or twice.Then let it sit and idle for the rest of the tank.
usually by then the rings are seated.
Hunter

AtLast · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2004, 04:33:14 PM »

Well so far it seems to be many differant opinions. I appreciate seating the rings and all. But I cant imagine STIHL expecting people to not only take that kinda time but HAVE that kind of time for simply just running the saw. Im NOT saying anyone is right or wrong. I guess I was just hoping there would be a general concensis. Like I said, I ran the saw "alittle" before putting it to work and typically use this saw for bucking logs. I guess time will tell. That and I have alot of faith in STIHL so lets hope that pays off

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2004, 05:52:15 PM »

Idling a saw for a long time just mucks up the muffler and spark arrestor, according to most of the folks I've talked to.

oldsaw-addict · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2004, 01:36:23 PM »

Idling a saw for a long time also has this odd tendancy to build up excess 2cycle oil in the crank case, which will eventually cause it to stall. I have the problem all the time with my saws, it aint very convenient to pick up an idling saw, then go to rev it up only to have it stall on you, I get so irritated by that I just wanna scream sometimes. Then again, IF you dont let your saw idle for too long, this post should be completely and totally ignored

. I havent ever seen the muffler and spark arrester screen get all screwy from idling a saw too long,

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2004, 02:01:42 PM »

Oldsaw, there was a picture posted on another forum, of a saw with black gunk drooling out the muffler, and the guy was concerned because it was brand new saw and he'd idled it a tank or two, and what was this muck? Mix oil, unburned.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2004, 02:14:22 PM »

AtLast,
As a former chainsaw mechanic, I too would run a new saw full throttle and goose it a few times, because that is the only way to check the mixture settings on the carburetor. It would be nice to have just left them a bit too rich and have the customer bring the saw in the next week for final adjustment, but most didn't have the time for that extra trip. Never had a saw blow up from doing it and don't recall those saws having any particular problems down the road from those revs. I din't hold it wide open for long, just enough to make the adjustments.

Oldsaw,
I bought a new saw this winter for a job that the saw had to sit idling for a couple of minutes, rev up to make one short cut and then back to idling. After a couple of weeks it wouldn't idle and had no power for the cut. i took the muffler apart and the spark arrestor was so full of carbon you couldn't see through it. I left it out and the saw runs better than ever.

AtLast · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2004, 03:04:18 PM »

Minnesota_boy,
well I thank you kindly sir, coming from a mechanic i would tend to follow your advise. I still cant see to many people in this type of work having the time to "break in" a saw. Again im confident its all good....but needed to know if this was just me or a typical practice.

Corley5 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2004, 03:22:19 PM »

Oldsaw,
Listen and learn from what these REAL rednecks have to say

AtLast · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2004, 09:19:00 AM »

Now theres a blanket statement.....i was-a thinkin we's was all rednecks inna 1 ways er a tuther.....

1 thing I noticed on this STIHL MS440...was that it ran outta fuel b4 it ran outta bar oil...I has tinkered with the oil setting on the bottom of the saw but it still runs outta gas first. I also wanted to put a more aggessive chain on it. Is there some simple "tweeking" I can do to get a bit more power to the chain?

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Author Topic: NEW CHAINSAW " BREAK-IN" (Read 65422 times)

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