Author Topic: Need help with Belsaw M14 (Read 1539 times)

Farmer_17 · « **on:** April 11, 2012, 06:52:01 PM »

I am trying to build a new frame the old one was not original it was a lamb trusts so I am using the 2x10's that the manual calls for. Problem I dismantled the mandrel in the book it states the frame should be 38" wide on the outside. The bearing plates measures from outside to inside 37" it should be 35" right minus the 3" for the 2x10's. I loosen the set screws on the bearing plate and can not get it to move any ideas what I can do.
Thanks Farmer
If anybody with a wood frame could let me know the dimensions would appreciate it .

snowshoveler · « **Reply #1 on:** April 11, 2012, 08:14:57 PM »

Hi Farmer...
I just finished mine a few months ago. I built it according to the little book.
I should have measured the mandrel between the bearings. I had to take it apart and narrow it up 1 1/2 inches.
If I was doing it again I would just set up a couple 2x4s on there side and set your mandrel on this at the correct spot according to your bearings. Build from there. Should be good to go.
Regards Chris

snowshoveler · « **Reply #2 on:** April 11, 2012, 08:36:52 PM »

Hi Again Farmer...
I just went down and measured mine (after I found a flashlight ).
The woodwork is 38 inches wide at the outside and the booklet said 39 1/2.
Regards Chris

apm · « **Reply #3 on:** April 11, 2012, 08:54:54 PM »

Farmer I don't know if yours is the same, but on mine, the set screw goes into an eccentric collar that locks the bearing to the mandrell. After you loosen the set screw, you've got to turn the collar one way or another to release the bearing. After the bearing is free (I'd do the back bearing, away from the saw) you can move it to whatever spread distance you want to match your new frame. Once it's in place, just retighten the eccentric collar, then the set screw. If everything's rusted up, that may be your problem.

Greg

snowshoveler · « **Reply #4 on:** April 11, 2012, 08:59:18 PM »

I should have mentioned that mine uses babbett bearings and the booklet I have is newer with ball bearings.
Perhaps that is the difference.
Chris

Farmer_17 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2012, 11:09:10 PM »

In the booklet I have it says 38" the thing I see wrong is I don't have the 1 3/4 distance from saw collar to the outside rail ( they show it as center rail saw side). I will only have 1 " do you think that is okay.
I got the collar loose but the bearing will not slide back so we hit it with some wood and now it is a little rough still spins freely but you can feel it is not smooth. Is there some one that sells bearings or maybe I should just try it the way it is.
Thanks farmer

Farmer_17 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 11, 2012, 11:48:58 PM »

Quote from: apm on April 11, 2012, 08:54:54 PM

Farmer I don't know if yours is the same, but on mine, the set screw goes into an eccentric collar that locks the bearing to the mandrell. After you loosen the set screw, you've got to turn the collar one way or another to release the bearing. After the bearing is free (I'd do the back bearing, away from the saw) you can move it to whatever spread distance you want to match your new frame. Once it's in place, just retighten the eccentric collar, then the set screw. If everything's rusted up, that may be your problem.

Greg

Farmer_17 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 11, 2012, 11:49:10 PM »

Greg I can turn the collar both ways and moved it back to where I wanted it but the bearing and plate will not move any other set screws.

Tripp · « **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2012, 08:07:59 AM »

Farmer,

If needed, a local bearing supplier should have replacement bearings on hand. They are easily removeable from their housings if they are not too rusted.

Tripp

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2012, 08:25:36 AM »

Farmer,your going to all the work to set up your mill,might as well know you have good bearings not get it all set up and find you have to pull it apart.First thing clean the arbor shaft with sand paper and/or wirewheel.You have the instruction book trust it that will give you the right distance between the carriage and saw.If I recall your arbor is 1 3/4" I'd get two new US made flange bearings same as on it now.A circular mill set up right with a good foundation will be a joy for years,half butt setup a constant headache. Frank C.

apm · « **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2012, 10:13:13 AM »

It'd be a good idea to go ahead and replace a rough feeling bearing. It's not going to get any better on it's own and it'll be a lot easier while you've got it apart. You'll certainly need to sandpaper the mandrell to get it back to the original size in order for the bearing to slide where you want it. The thing to remember is that when you get the shaft mounted you want about 1/2" clearance between the saw and the edge of your carriage as it rolls on the track. I imagine there would be a lot of variables in building a new frame so just make sure the end result is what you want and don't stress over the exact measurements in the instructions. They are just a guide.

Greg

Farmer_17 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2012, 11:15:46 AM »

Thanks guys that is the last bearing on the shaft and I am sure the other one might be the same plus I have to take the big heavy belt pulley off I will go down to the machine shop today to see if he can help.
I am not a happy camper but your right better to make it right the first time and get all the correct measurements so I can enjoy the saw.
Hey Greg after watching your video makes me want to get this project done sooner...........nice job

farmer

apm · « **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2012, 02:35:42 PM »

check out this thread........

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=38208.0

Greg

Farmer_17 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 12, 2012, 03:20:48 PM »

Thanks Greg for the link I will call around for the bearing number. Just drop off the shaft at the machine shop he said he did not know if he could get the belt pulley off said it looked like the the collar behind the saw blade can be pulled off. He said he would try both ways so I got my fingers crossed. They rebuilt my TD-9 last year and did a nice job so I have convenience that they can make it right. I am really looking forward to getting to saw some logs.
farmer

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