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Author Topic: needed: milling chainsaw  (Read 4377 times)

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Offline mad murdock

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #20 on: September 02, 2012, 06:54:06 PM »
The logosol branded thin kerf bar is made by stihl. Talk to Greg @ Bailey's he can possibly get you squared away on the same B/C from stihl stock. Might have to do some adapting to use it on the DE80, but with the low pro B/C set up it would mill nicely, me thinks.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Offline pdoubleu

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2012, 08:53:23 PM »
Thanks for the contact! I think you definiltely have me on the right track. Awesome help, love this forum!

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #22 on: September 03, 2012, 04:57:48 AM »
Good luck finding any thing to mount up to that DE except another McCulloch bar unless adaptations are made .Some Husqvarna mounts might match depending on how they are made .

The 81 cc Macs are good fallers but again they're are tad to small for good millers .Again though you could probabley mill with a mini Mac but it would take a coons age to cut a 4 foot 2 by 4 .

Offline jteneyck

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #23 on: September 28, 2012, 08:50:36 PM »
Well, like Al, I'm cheap.  Unlike Al, I only have 6 saws.  One of them is a Husky 385XP with a 28" bar that I run in an Alaskan Mill.  I've milled around 4000 BF of hardwood lumber with it over the past 8 years or so.  Hard work, but fun too.  Logosol used to recommend the 385XP with their mill, and I've been happy with it for the logs I mill which are never bigger than 24" dia. and more frequently in the 16 - 20" range.  Well, I did do a walnut about 28" dia. once.  I would not want anything smaller for what I do.  I also would not run low profile chains out of fear of them breaking.  A big saw driving a LP chain is not a good combination if you think about safety.  A sharp ripping chain is the key to efficient milling with a chainsaw mill.  That, and plenty of lube. 

If you plan to mill much the saw will pay for itself in short order, in which case it's better to buy a new one than try to resurrect an old one unless you've done it before.  Or buy a rebuilt one from someone here.  Milling is really tough on a saw because you're running WOT for several minutes on a big, long log, not seconds like in crosscutting. 

John   
   

Offline mad murdock

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #24 on: September 29, 2012, 10:21:27 AM »
About running LP chain on a larger saw, according to Logosol's own reccomendation, they will go up to a 660 Stihl with their picco chain, nothing larger. The whole concept of thinner kerf is less hp required with more ease and more lumber recovery from the log. I have not used it yet, but had studied the concept in depth and spoken to guys dt Baileys who have used it, I am going to purchase my next millig bar/chain setup in low pro. I will post my results.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Online HolmenTree

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Re: needed: milling chainsaw
« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2012, 09:57:56 PM »
I have milled with LoPro Picco 3/8 chain with my Stihl 066 Mag. But the chain "kinked up" in the links pretty quick. Trouble was I was running standard 3/8 rim and bar nose.
I know by comparing a 3/8 picco rim sprocket and standard 3/8 rim the pitch is different. [8T-3/8 picco rim is larger in diameter then a standard 8T 3/8 rim]. I have a 8T 3/8 Picco in small spline bore to fit small Stihls.
I'm told Logosol which I have no experience with has a rim sprocket in Picco pitch with the large standard 7 spline bore to fit the 066 etc. The kinking problem should be eliminated with this rim.
Don't forgot to run a picco bar nose too,or use a roller nose if that's not possible.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.


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