Quarter Sawing on a Circle Mill

SPD748 · February 16, 2013, 09:58:03 PM

I found an article on the web which explained a method of quarter sawing on a circle mill complete with diagrams. After reading the article I think I have an understanding of the method however I have a few questions. I drew the diagrams in CAD so I could post them here.

1. Slab the log on one side and turn that side down on the headblocks.
2. Split the log and drop half on the log deck.
3. Position the half left on the carriage as shown and cut boards to the heart.
4. Re-position as shown and cut boards to the heart.
5. Re-position as shown and cut boards to the heart.
6. Re-position as shown and cut the final boards.

Repeat the process with the half previously dropped on the log deck.

The sequence of events I understand. I have some reservations about dogging especially figure 3. Is this a commonly used method of quarter sawing? If so, where should I stick the dog in figure 3?

-lee

Satamax · February 16, 2013, 10:35:27 PM

Lee, if i may ask, what do you want to use your quatersawn lumber for?

I don't have a sawmill of any kind. But i have looked a lot at quatersawing. There's a lot of wood you won't use with this method. And if you don't have a bottom dog, that gonna be complicated.

Let see if i can explain.

For luthiery and guitarmaking, usualy they start with 4 split quarters at least. Plane the two faces of one piece, put one face on the table of a saw, and press the other face against the fence, then saw two bookmatched pieces. Sometimes repeat a few times, till they feel happy with it, or after the two first cuts, then lay the face they've been cuting down on the table, and turn end for end, then they have the face wich was on the bottom previously facing the fence. Do two cuts, or a smidge more, then repeat the end to end turning. Cut a bit more. Depending on the size of the log, they either re split the remaining quarter, plane and use that face for reference against the fence, untill they're too close to rift sawn. Or they don't split and saw square stock, which will be resplit into smaller pieces for neck blanks, fingerboard or bridges. You could may be go along thoses lines.

HTH.

Max.

captain_crunch · February 16, 2013, 11:11:22 PM

unless you are catering to cabnet makers it dont matter lots in real life. Lots of waste in process there is a real good vidio on U tube about it

Schramm · February 16, 2013, 11:21:18 PM

Hmmmm... I go to the mill especially because they cut quartersawn oak, cherry, sycamore among others. In my opinion there is no better looking wood then quartersawn. I have been using it for years to make period looking frames for mirrors. People that buy frames that I make ask me for it. I just went on Friday and bought 100 bf of QS White oak and will be assembling some frames on Monday for a customer. I love watching the double blade mill and the guys operating and working around it. The drawings that you have posted truly does look like the way they cut the logs. Go for it in my opinion.

Rob

bandmiller2 · February 17, 2013, 06:49:22 AM

Yup Lee,those drawing are pretty much how its done.Outher than the first slab cuts I get nervous when theirs not a flat surface on the knees.What they show is correct but sometimes in practice those odd pieces are a bear to hold,tending to shift and crowd the saw.If I was doing alot of it I'd make some wedges to put under just to keep things stable.Unless I had to get every piece quartersawn, I'd mix, cut a slab roll to flat down half the log as in your diagram.Take a couple of cuts then roll over square edge agenst the headblocks.The center wood will be quarter or close the rest may be pretty and usable as such or used as flatsawn.I usally don't bother with quartersawn. Frank C.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · February 17, 2013, 07:56:55 AM

Figure 5 is risky as the piece will be hard to hold safely.

ALWOL · February 17, 2013, 09:05:30 AM

It is really hard to hold some of those pieces with only top dogs, duplex dogs would be a big help. The method I have always used for that reason, is to fully quarter the log, and then then remove boards from alternate faces by swapping ends with the quarter. It is very important to keep the heart square with the saw. Sure wish I could provide you with some of those fancy diagrams to help!

Alan

dblair · February 17, 2013, 09:56:49 AM

bottom dogs are a must , my mill has one but you need two, sometimes I just can't figure what they did on these old mills . I'll get a picture of my bottom dog and post .

Jim_Rogers · February 17, 2013, 10:59:30 AM

It maybe possible to use the standard band-sawmill method of quarter sawing on a circle mill. I don't know for sure. I have never tried it but it seem like it may work.

What you could try is this.

First cut off about 1/3 of the log, we'll call this section part A.
Like this:

Then rotate the log 180° and cut of the other side about 1/3 again. We'll call this section part B

Like this:

Set part A and B back onto your log deck, somehow for future processing.
Both of these positions should be safe and easy to dog.

Next rotate the remaining section, part C and cut it down the middle.
Like this:

This will make part C1 and C2. Set part C2 aside and roll part C1 again 90°.

And when you cut this section you'll be making quarter sawn boards/planks.
Like this:

Cut part C2 the same way.

After you have processed these up. Put either part A or part B back onto your mill and cut them like this:

This will make some quarter sawn pieces out of parts A and B.

What do you think of this method?

Jim Rogers

SPD748 · February 17, 2013, 11:11:12 AM

Jim,

That method looks like it would work great without having the awkward dogging involved in my drawings. Thanks!

Sata,

I have no particular plans for quarter sawn lumber. I'm VERY new to the craft and am attempting to understand the different methods of sawing.

-lee

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · February 17, 2013, 11:26:27 AM

I think your pattern is very good. In fact, it is my sawing hardwoods book. I suggest that you keep C1 and C2 as one piece and saw wide quartersawn pieces. If the C-piece needs more stability, you can saw a flat face on the rounded part first. You can then rip these wide lumber pieces to eliminate the pith or other defects that would lower the grade.

Note that every piece will need edging...q-sawn is not the easiest or least labor intensive technique, plus yield will be lower.

SPD748 · February 17, 2013, 11:56:24 AM

So, like this Doc?

-lee

Ianab · February 17, 2013, 12:39:54 PM

This basically replicates what we would do with a swing mill, but with the extra handling of cants.

The boards in this picture:

Will also need the pith ripped out, as well as being edged, so 4 more cuts on those boards.

Yes it will work, but it's a lot more work compared to flat sawing on this style of mill. You would only do it if the value of the Q-sawn wood made it worthwhile, or someone else was paying you extra. ;)

Ian