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Author Topic: Interior walls  (Read 1373 times)

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Offline danreed76

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Interior walls
« on: May 03, 2013, 07:36:34 AM »
Admittedly, I'm no where near ready for interior walls (I'm out of town working when I should be building a house).  But it occurred to me last night that I've heard a lot about not fastening the inside member of the exterior wall system (ie -  drywall) to the timber frame to allow for movement, but I've not heard much about interior walls.

When planning interior partition walls, should they be designed to "float" to some extent to prevent distortion / drywall cracking as the timbers dry?  I've seen this done in other costruction where there is concern of the floor or the frame system moving, where the top or bottom of the wall is fastened with an intentional gap that is covered by trimwork or other architectural features.

Any other tips or lessons learned from y'all who have done it?  What would you do differently on interior walls?
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: Interior walls
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2013, 09:34:14 AM »
Interior walls are usually located beside a bent, not under or in line with the bent. This way you can use a standard interior wall for a chase to bring wires and pipes up to the second floor area.

If an interior wall is in line with the bent and you need to bring a pipe up to the second floor bathroom, for example. Your plumber would have to drill a hole through your tie beam. This maybe possible, but I wouldn't want to see it done.

If an interior wall is beside a bent then you could plan a space for the sheet-rock to slide up between the wall and the timbers. This should allow you to finish an interior wall by regular methods. You would wrap your timbers with some clear plastic or something like that so that the "mud" or paint from the sheet-rock will not get on your timbers. Then trim the plastic off with a utility knife after the painting is done. If trimmed correctly it won't show.

You'll need to properly plan you locations of your interior walls to fit this way. Hopefully this will work out for you.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Offline bigshow

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Re: Interior walls
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2013, 03:59:36 PM »
i would like to re-emphasize Jim's comment regarding protecting your timbers.  I didnt do it, and you pretty much have to sand the mud out/off the timbers - a significant pain. 
I never try anything, I just do it.

Offline danreed76

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Re: Interior walls
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2013, 08:02:08 PM »
Thanks for the feedback gents.  Looks like I have some walls to move.

Bigshow, did you take your blog down?  Tried to get on your blog for the first time in months, and couldn't seem to access it...  I have to go back through all the DIY timberframe blogs from time to time to remind myself that it CAN be done.
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

Offline bigshow

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Re: Interior walls
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2013, 04:02:43 PM »
yeah, I stopped the blog. I never achieved the level of sillyness I was truly looking for, and my ill will towards the construction and financial industries got the best of me for awhile there.

Maybe I'll do one last post when I'm done with the deck and landscaping. 

I never try anything, I just do it.

Offline canopy

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Re: Interior walls
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2013, 09:18:14 AM »
If having your walls over a bent is desirable then a possibility is to add a wainscot extending off the base of the wall for the plumbing and electrical runs. On top of the wainscot can be a narrow shelf for putting things.


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