The (Lucas Mill) Adventure Begins...

[JohnM]

...with a 7hr roadtrip! 8)

Packed and ready to go.


 

That's my homemade rack.  It was put on the back burner and sat for a year or two.  Found a design flaw, the back 'strut' slips in and out but that let water get in the posts and freeze, 'puffing' out the post.

 

First stop, I found the LLBean boot. :D

 

Bit of overnight snow in the White Mountains!   Any of you guys down south jealous? ;D

 

Had warmed up by the time I came through...sorta. :

 

A ferry ride across Lake Champlain.  (Kinda wish I had brought the boys.)

 

And my room for the night.  It's a Mircotel, simple and does what it's supposed to, I like it.

 

Heading back tomorrow with one more stop to make. ;)  (maybe two stops)

More to come...   (likely not til Tue )

JM

PS Have a good Memorial Day (happy memorial day doesn't make sense :).  Remember those you've lost and hug those you haven't.  (I get all sappy when I'm away from my wife and kids. :D)

[Magicman]

A ferry ride across Lake Champlain.

That looks like the Lake Champlain ferry that we used.   

[thecfarm]

I hope one stop will be Save A Lot.  ;D  I'm still busting at the seams.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

BRILLANT ! 

[GDinMaine]

I sure hate cliffhangers...

[Magicman]

He said likely Tues, so I guess that we will wait until tomorrow.   :-\

[JohnM]

And now, the rest of the story... ;D

A bit of back story first.  Went to the Logging Expo Friday before last and met several FF members, including thecfarm.  Ray and I spent the whole day checking out all the vendors, mills and equipment.  We ran in to GDinMaine, who is a friend/neighbor of mine.  (I know I've mentioned that before but I'm trying to tell a story here!  >:( ;) :D)  Fast-forward to 10pm that evening, in bed already, tired from walking around all day and need to be at work in the morning.  The phone rings!  "Who *&^# is that! >:(", I 'calmly' proclaim to my lovely bride. ;D  It's non other than GDinMaine, he's found a CL ad in upstate NY for a used Lucas 830 w/ slabbing attachment.  (Sidenote: GD has an uncanny knack for finding deals on CL or other such sites.  I swear it borders on clairvoyance. )  I thank him, hang up, get online, write the seller an email, "Very interested" (understatement!) and I'll call after work.

That made for a very looooong day at work!  Even had my wife call him in the middle of the day for details.  Called him that night, he agreed to hold it for me.  Took me a week to get the finances in order (Thank you, Aunt Ev!!!!).  Looooongest week of my life! ;) :D  The drive across Rt 2 (Northern New England) was a pretty poetic trip that summed up the week...lots of ups and downs and little sleep. ;)

The happy ending...or is it a beginning ???


Testing it out.  That's not me with the long hair, if my hair gets long enough to touch my ears I start slapping at my head like I'm covered in ants. :D

  

  

 

All loaded up.

 

Back across Lake Champlain.  MM there are several routes across, this was Grand Isle - Platsburgh I believe.

 

White Mountains living up to their name. 

 

And the first FF member to see my new toy, thecfarm.  We ended up talking more gardening than milling. :D

 

 

Back home.

 

(not sure this clip will work/is allowed?)<object width="100%" height="25" class="hark_player">
<param name="movie" value="http://cdn.hark.com/swfs/player_bar.swf?pid=bzltlwvlqy"/>

A big thank you to Sigidi, nomad, dgdrls, logboy, thecfarm and the FF community in general for any and all input and advice.  And thanks to Jeff for keeping this ship afloat.  And GD, thank you again!!

BTW only 84 hrs on the mill! 8) ;D

Now the work begins...can't wait!! ;D

JM

[Nomad]

     Congrats!  Now put it back together and get a log in the Dang thing! ;D

[mobile demensia]

Practically brand new! You must be like a kid at Christmas. Hours of fun ahead for you.

[ayerwood]

Congrats JohnM!  I had a road trip when I bought my Lucas 827, so I know your excitement.  I have no regrets and love it every time I am making sawdust fly.  It is a great machine that will give you years of fun milling.  Enjoy!

[Satamax]

To get an idea, if it's no secret. How much did you pay for it?

[GDinMaine]

You must be like a kid at Christmas.

Oh he is worse then that :D.  I just got home after helping him unload the mill from the truck.  I assume we will see pictures of some sawdust by this evening.  Good looking machine!  Congrats!

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Way to go John. Now you will be slapping at your head to get the sawdust out.  :D

[sprucebunny]

Congratulations  8) 8)

[dukndog]

Congrats on the new mill and the adventure in getting it!! Many piles of sawdust will soon be forming!!

[Klicker]

 8)Congrats on the  mill. I hope I can see it when I go through in Aug.

[thecfarm]

I hope to make it to john's place this fall. I want to see that mill in action.

[JohnM]

O...M...G!!!  Why didn't anyone tell me this was so fun??!!  Oh, I guess you did. :-[

My oldest is excited now, knowing the mill means a tree house.  We'll see how he feels after tailing a few 2x6s.

 

This EWP has been sitting around for 2+ years, so wet I think Paul Bunyan could ring it out like a wet sponge.

 

The log was a little cockeyed so I didn't get a 'full recovery' but holy crap it was fun!

  

 

24 - 3/4x5.5(avg)x8' paneling for inside the chicken coop.  Made for a lot of cuts but all the repetition was good practice. ;D

 

Thank you all for the congrats.  BTW does Betty Ford have sawdust wing?

To get an idea, if it's no secret. How much did you pay for it?

I guess I'd rather not say (no good reason why ???) but to suffice to say I could make money if I sold it next week.  And you're crazy if you I would! ;) :D

I hope to make it to john's place this fall. I want to see that mill in action.

8)Congrats on the  mill. I hope I can see it when I go through in Aug.

Either of you are welcome any time!

JM

[RedLeg]

I guess I'll offer my congrats... reluctantly  :'( I had found his post on CL about two weeks ago posted in the Albany CL listing.  It wasn't labeled very well either.  I was hoping to go see it/buy it the middle of next month when I went back home to the family farm about 30 minutes away.  Money wasn't the issue but a 10 hour drive and time away from the office on no-notice left me hoping no one else would spy it.  When your first post appeared I told the other half that that was where you were headed.  Good luck with it.

[RedLeg]

To get an idea, if it's no secret. How much did you pay for it?

The CL ad had it listed at $10K, quite a deal if it was in good shape and with it including the Slabber attachment.

[ET]

Congrats on your great find.  The learning curve isn't too bad. Once you get the hang of it the boards just fly off.  Do you already have a place to set it up inside?  I keep mine torn down in the garage and have to set up each time I use it.

[WildDog]

Congratulations JohnM your up for a lot of fun. Soon after I bought my 827 the 830 with side winder was released :( My oldest boy was 13 at the time, I have a lot of good memories milling with him.

[Seaman]

AWESOME    Another Lucas in the Gang. Well done Sir!
Keep us updated on the learning curve, we all learn from each others " adventures"

Frank

[Gasawyer]

Congratulations! Hope that you continue to enjoy the Lucas.

[Magicman]

Congrats on the mill and thanks for the adventure.   8)

And yes, Plattsburgh is where we crossed.   

[thecfarm]

I'm as excited as your son too. Let ne know when all the work is done and I'll come up than.  :D

[JohnM]

To get an idea, if it's no secret. How much did you pay for it?

The CL ad had it listed at $10K, quite a deal if it was in good shape and with it including the Slabber attachment.

Well, I guess Red outted me. ;) :D  RedLeg, the same happened to me.  dgdrls jumped on an 827 in NH that I had planned on calling on the day he was picking it up! :D  All I can offer is have all your ducks in a row before hand and than it comes down to timing and just plain luck.  This came together very quickly for me.

Congrats on your great find.  The learning curve isn't too bad. Once you get the hang of it the boards just fly off.  Do you already have a place to set it up inside?  I keep mine torn down in the garage and have to set up each time I use it.

No building yet, ET.  I have it setup in a back field so the thought dragging back and forth to the garage is not a good one.  So I just have tarp over the power head for now.  Not the best sitution but it's the one I'm in. :

I'm as excited as your son too. Let ne know when all the work is done and I'll come up than.  :D

Ummm...Ray, we'll both be dead before all the work is done with this place. :  Just bring a pair of gloves! ;) ;D :D

[thecfarm]

Same here to John with the work. Bring the gloves part too.  :D

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

... Bring the gloves part too.  :D

Ya'll be careful working around moving machinery while wearing gloves.

A glove contributed to the circumstances that led to the accident I had which caused my altered digits...



 

Herb

[JohnM]

... Bring the gloves part too.  :D

Ya'll be careful working around moving machinery while wearing gloves.

A glove contributed to the circumstances that led to the accident I had which caused my altered digits...



 

Herb

Agreed, Herb, it depends on what I'm doing whether or not I wear them.  My father never wore this wedding ring for that reason.  He was an amateur woodworker and even taught highschool shop for a few years.  Ironically he ended up tearing off the top of said ring finger with the woodsplitter to the first knuckle.  Not paying attention and legally blind is a bad combo. :

[Magicman]

You are OK Herb.  You just can't point as far as you once could.   :-\

[KnotBB]

One of the modification they did to the 827 when it became an 830 was to change sides with the narrow rail guides (rollers).  They put the narrow wheels on the left side verses the right side to get straighter cuts because that's the side that gets pulled "toward".  I see your "new" mill hasn't been changed.  Easy modification!  Talk to Baileys if you have questions.

It really gets fun with 30"to 40" logs.

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

You are OK Herb.  You just can't point as far as you once could.   :-\

But my youngest daughter say's I'll be able to get a discount when I go get a manicure!

Course, that's about to happen, any day now...

Herb

[Satamax]

Well, I guess Red outted me. ;) :D  RedLeg, the same happened to me.  dgdrls jumped on an 827 in NH that I had planned on calling on the day he was picking it up! :D  All I can offer is have all your ducks in a row before hand and than it comes down to timing and just plain luck.  This came together very quickly for me.

Well, it happened to all of us. Worse case, i missed a CD4 (wide band 40 inch wheels, horizontal bandsaw, self fed, french made) for a thousand euros, last year. Being kind of nice, i didn't dare calling at ten thirty at night. Called at eight,. The buyer called at six thirty am, and came that same morning, and by the time i called, it was gone!  :'(

[sigidi]

First and FOREMOST - well done mate 8) ;D ;) I can feel the anticipation you would have had!! ;D sometimes those late night calls can be great.

I was going to say, it doesn't look like an old machine, but with that few hours on it!!!you are basically in a new machine!!! good for you mate, I know you have been lookin hard

One of the modification they did to the 827 when it became an 830 was to change sides with the narrow rail guides (rollers).  They put the narrow wheels on the left side verses the right side to get straighter cuts because that's the side that gets pulled "toward".  I see your "new" mill hasn't been changed.  Easy modification!  Talk to Baileys if you have questions.

It really gets fun with 30"to 40" logs.

I have narrow both sides, each time I rationalise putting narrow one side or the other, I find reasons for them to be the other side, so I thoguth to heck with it, so narrow both sides it is. It does mean a little finer setup is needed, but I always take that much time/care setting up anyway.

[JohnM]

One of the modification they did to the 827 when it became an 830 was to change sides with the narrow rail guides (rollers).  They put the narrow wheels on the left side verses the right side to get straighter cuts because that's the side that gets pulled "toward".  I see your "new" mill hasn't been changed.  Easy modification!  Talk to Baileys if you have questions.

It really gets fun with 30"to 40" logs.

I have narrow both sides, each time I rationalise putting narrow one side or the other, I find reasons for them to be the other side, so I thoguth to heck with it, so narrow both sides it is. It does mean a little finer setup is needed, but I always take that much time/care setting up anyway.

I barely understand what you two are talking about. :D :D  I'm in pure flat-out play/practice mode atm. ;D  I'll need to order several parts from Baileys at some point, the slabber is missing whatever part it needs to connect to the drive train and has no chain.  The seller had it all stored in a basement of a house he and a friend were building together.  They had words, he went and took all his stuff out but left those two items.  The slabber is still wrapped in packing tape!  (And will be for a while. :D)

Allan, thanks again for all your help!  No bent tabs! ;)

JM

[dgdrls]

Well done John 8)  Glad the trip went well.

Another Lucas/circle mill finds a home on the board ;)

DGD

[Nomad]

the slabber is missing whatever part it needs to connect to the drive train and has no chain.  The seller had it all stored in a basement of a house he and a friend were building together.  They had words, he went and took all his stuff out but left those two items.  The slabber is still wrapped in packing tape!  (And will be for a while. :D)

Allan, thanks again for all your help!  No bent tabs! ;)

JM
[/quote]

     Sounds like you're talking about the drive sprocket.  It goes where the mounting plate for the circle blade is.  When you set it up as a slabber, make sure you follow the alignment instructions well!  Chains are a bit over $100 each.  And make sure you get a Carleton File-O-Plate from Baileys!  That little piece of stamped metal is worth it's weight in gold.  Order an extra set of blade mounting screws and extra sprocket screws too.  They're not the same.

[customsawyer]

Congrats on the new to you mill.

[sigidi]

One of the modification they did to the 827 when it became an 830 was to change sides with the narrow rail guides (rollers).  They put the narrow wheels on the left side verses the right side to get straighter cuts because that's the side that gets pulled "toward".  I see your "new" mill hasn't been changed.  Easy modification!  Talk to Baileys if you have questions.

It really gets fun with 30"to 40" logs.

I have narrow both sides, each time I rationalise putting narrow one side or the other, I find reasons for them to be the other side, so I thoguth to heck with it, so narrow both sides it is. It does mean a little finer setup is needed, but I always take that much time/care setting up anyway.

I barely understand what you two are talking about. :D :D  I'm in pure flat-out play/practice mode atm. ;D  I'll need to order several parts from Baileys at some point, the slabber is missing whatever part it needs to connect to the drive train and has no chain.  The seller had it all stored in a basement of a house he and a friend were building together.  They had words, he went and took all his stuff out but left those two items.  The slabber is still wrapped in packing tape!  (And will be for a while. :D)

Allan, thanks again for all your help!  No bent tabs! ;)

JM

Well I reckon you just have some fun first mate, plenty of time to get into all this stuff ;) ;D
And no probs with a bit of help here and there mate  ;) too easy, anytime

[Magicman]

I always recommend that anyone with a "new" sawmill to get some logs and just practice and have fun.  There is a learning curve that needs to be mastered without an audience.   ;D

[tjhammer]

    A-MEN mm,I had a time on the blade kerf on my saw,on a swing mill the hor kerf settings are figured on the scale  on the vert you have no way to figure kerf, its knowing how deep your saw cuts past the setting on mine its 1/4 deeper than the setting,after a couple small logs I was on my way
  tj

[sigidi]

    A-MEN mm,I had a time on the blade kerf on my saw,on a swing mill the hor kerf settings are figured on the scale  on the vert you have no way to figure kerf, its knowing how deep your saw cuts past the setting on mine its 1/4 deeper than the setting,after a couple small logs I was on my way
  tj

TJ, with the Lucas, the kerf is factored into both horiz and vert scales

[tjhammer]

   

     sigidi  thought mine was too but after coming short on the vert cut I started checking when I entered the saw then pull it out 1/4 short now that I know this no problem
  tj

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I always recommend that anyone with a "new" sawmill to get some logs and just practice and have fun.  There is a learning curve that needs to be mastered without an audience.   ;D

And even when you think you know it....you forget it all,  when the crowd shows up.  :D

[Ianab]

I always recommend that anyone with a "new" sawmill to get some logs and just practice and have fun.  There is a learning curve that needs to be mastered without an audience.   ;D

Just get yourself a couple of scrappy logs and practise sawing 1x1s. You will need stickers, and this gets you into the rhythm of running the mill. Once you have done the adjust, walk, flip, walk, flip, repeat... thing a few hundred times it becomes instinctive and you are able to think about the other things like your actual cutting patterns

Ian

[JohnM]

I always recommend that anyone with a "new" sawmill to get some logs and just practice and have fun.  There is a learning curve that needs to be mastered without an audience.   ;D

Just get yourself a couple of scrappy logs and practise sawing 1x1s. You will need stickers, and this gets you into the rhythm of running the mill. Once you have done the adjust, walk, flip, walk, flip, repeat... thing a few hundred times it becomes instinctive and you are able to think about the other things like your actual cutting patterns

Ian

MM, the mill is in the back of the back field.  :D  People can hear me but not see me. ;D

Ian, that's kind of what I was doing with the 3/4 stuff.  Tedious but effective training.  Think I like your sticker idea though, I'm already in need of those! ;D :D

Made my first  two 2x6s tonight, would have made more but it was too dark to read the gauges. ;D  Did I mention this is really fun?! 8)

JM

[thecfarm]

Park the tractor so the lights shine on it.  :D    It's great owning a mill.

[GDinMaine]

The bugs would love to have you over for supper.  They love tasty sawmill people, even if they are in need of a shower.

[sigidi]

   

     sigidi  thought mine was too but after coming short on the vert cut I started checking when I entered the saw then pull it out 1/4 short now that I know this no problem
  tj

Not quite with ya on this TJ, but the kerf is most certainly factored into the scales. In the vertical cut, the blade may start the cut fine, but wander away from the horizontal cut by the end of the log for a few reasons - if pulled through too quick or blade has lost tension, if carriage brake isn't on firm enough or blade is sharpened badly.

[thecfarm]

John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?

[JohnM]

John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?

Ray, I got out there last night after work but the heat beat me tonight, didn't have it in me.  Have work tomorrow and may try to get out for a bit when I get home.  Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Sigidi, should you ever find yourself in the state of Maine, USA, I could use a pro's tutoring. ;) ;D  A lot to learn.

JM

[sigidi]

John.been getting any sawdust on ya in this heat?

Ray, I got out there last night after work but the heat beat me tonight, didn't have it in me.  Have work tomorrow and may try to get out for a bit when I get home.  Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Sigidi, should you ever find yourself in the state of Maine, USA, I could use a pro's tutoring. ;) ;D  A lot to learn.

JM

Mate, funny you should say, I was half heartedly planning a trip to US of A to go to the shoot out, but then I got bitten with the kayak fishing bug and well...spare cash laying around goes into buyin more fishin gear now  ( just got me kitted out with a pair of sounders on my kayak)

[Seaman]

Just don't know what to think about a man who had rather spend time with fish he hasn't met, than a bunch of sawmillers he knows!

Hope the fish are biting Buddy!
Frank

[sigidi]

Just don't know what to think about a man who had rather spend time with fish he hasn't met, than a bunch of sawmillers he knows!

Hope the fish are biting Buddy!
Frank

hahaha Funny as Frank, I may have to venture out of sawmilling forum to show y'all some pictures - dunno tho, reckon that'd be scary

[JohnM]

(I figure I'll just continue on with this thread/adventure.  Maybe it'll help someone, I know it does me! ;D)

Have a lot of tinkering with my setup to do plus a full 'tune up', oil change, filters, etc. 

Well, I got to (most of*) my tune up today.  (*didn't do the fuel filter and found a second spark plug that I didn't know was there. :  My mechanical 'abilities' basically amount to tearing things apart and trying to put them back where I found them. )

The transmission oil has me a bit confused. ???  I filled until oil came out the "Oil Level" mark.

  But when I check the dipstick it only comes up to the '1' mark.  Is that right?

 


Another thing I noticed is the manual says to run the engine at 'full revs' while cutting.  There is a notch on the throttle (1) but I can push it past that to (2).  While cutting the horizontal I can keep it pushed up but pulling back on the vertical it normally returns to the notch.  Should I be pushing past the notch?  (Was going to just PM Sigidi with this question but again, maybe it will help someone else.)

 


I discovered the previous owner had been sharpening with the wrong wheel!   (Sig, I came inside and watched your sharpening vid to confirm my suspicions. :D)

  He had been using the red one on the left which goes with the chain sharpener.  (I think I was nearly as excited to see that in the box as I was with the mill. :D)  btw the jig is for doing chainsaw chains only not the slabber chains from what I gathered.

 


There is some 'play' in the grinder so that when it's down (which it is when you're ready to sharpen the blades) the on/off switch doesn't work.  The little sticker/tab had fallen off.

  The grinder worked but I had to disconnect it from the battery to shut it off.  I think I can just use it without the sticker laid in there but that 'play' can't be right. ???  (Not sure I'm explaining that well. :)  Did manage to get the blade sharpened. ;D


I try to use my tractor in everything I do I around here. : ;) ;D :D

 


I did manage to kill the battery after I got everything back together.  Pro tip: reconnect the spark plug! smiley_dunce  I removed and swapped out the blade. (Thank you, Blue Creeper! ;D)  Partly just for the experience but also to drain the trans oil.  And I removed a nest of some sort (beginnings of a mouse nest I think but not a full blown one) that was behind the ignition switch and all up in that bundle of wires.  None of the wires appear damaged.

Back at the logs tomorrow. ;)

JM

[dgdrls]

JM,

"The transmission oil has me a bit confused. ???  I filled until oil came out the "Oil Level" mark."

Looks like your right on with the gear oil, I noticed the same thing when I serviced my gearbox.
run the saw a bit and them recheck when its hot.  My manual explains exactly what you performed for service.

I'm not certain on the throttle, I have the screw type, check the linkage at the motor and see where
full throttle is and back your way through the cable and links to the handle and see if its out of adjustment.

Best
DGD

[Magicman]

Sounds like you are making good progress and are learning it from the ground up which is good.  You do not forget that kind of "training".    ;D

[JohnM]

Ok, I'll check that out DGD.  Thanks!  MM, I am wholeheartedly a learn by doing type.

JM

[Nomad]

     John, several things.  I don't think you're off base with the oil level in the gearbox.  Your throttle set up is different from mine; mine is just a push-pull cable.  Can't help you with that.  But I'd expect the second notch is what is considered "full throttle."
     As to the sharpening stone.  I doubt that pink stone did much for the carbide bits on your blades.  The factory diamond stone is the way to go.

[sigidi]

John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.

I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.

You sorted out the grinder ok, that pink wheel is for chains - good spotting. although having said this the grinder apparently won't be able to slide back to 10 deg to sharpen slabber chains. not sure how correct this is, was told that on my first mill and never tried it personally. With respect to the play in the sharpener, try and identify where it is coming from. My first experience with the grinders, I put a large body washer behind the wingnut used to tension it to the frame, this helped stabilise it on the bracket a whole heap. But you might find there is some play in the housing the grinder pivots off - maybe the last fella wasn't very gentle with it? With the switch, you may be able to free it up with a short spray of wd-40, where the sticker should be.

So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? ;) is that how you flattened your battery? another thing to remember - the water bottle has a little nipple moulded into the bottom of it, if the bottle/blade guard isn't seated properly it won't deactivate the kill switch under the bottle and the motor won't fire - she'll turn over but not fire up.

Good work mate 8) well done on your first service  ;)

[JohnM]

John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.

If that's the case, Sig, I don't understand the point of the 'oil level' nut. ???

 

I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.

I shouldn't have numbered them and pic isn't great.  There is only one notch for that little point on the throttle arm to sit in.  (Am I making this worse? ??? :D)  I ran it yesterday (before nearly blowing up my engine  : :( https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,67162.0.html) without 'gunning' it (ie leaving it in the notch) and it sounded like the engine would rev up on it's own when it would hit a knot or bog down.  I believe that's the proper way, I was just going on what the guy that sold it showed me.

So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? ;) is that how you flattened your battery?

Just never plugged the first one back in. : smiley_dizzy

Made myself some stepped 'bearers' (as they are called in the manual ), waaaay easier than trying to wrestle the log up an incline.  Sig, going use your trick and replace the bottom 'step' with a wider one for bracing a pole for log positioning/turning.

 

This log was still a bit of a struggle because of the crotch.

 

I'll keep y'all posted. ;) ;D

JM

[sigidi]

John, I'm not sure why with your gearbox the oil at the level of that bolt isn't 'full' - it has been with all 3 of mine. Where the carriage rails level left to right? and was the gearbox 'locked' into horizontal position for the blade (not sitting on the outside of the nut/bolt where the swing over handle sits under?)

Even with one plug lead on the engine I'd think it should fire up, but run rough as guts though...

Having those stepped bearers would make it a bit easier to 'rest' in spots when rolling logs in, but how heavy is each one? Wait what am I saying we pick up heavy stuff all day  ;D

Good onya mate ;)

[dgdrls]

OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.
Also when I filled the gearbox with the full level plug out, I filled it until the oil was running out about the middle of the hole not just lapping on the edge.

Sorry if I caused confusion, I'm on the same learning curve :

Best
DGD

[Klicker]

John I hope your motor is ok.

[sigidi]

OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.


Best
DGD

YES, the dipstick needs to be screwed in to check the level - sorry I never even considered it was being dipped rather than 'screwed in', My bad fella's

Hope all is good for ya John

[KnotBB]

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

[JohnM]

Bit of an update.  Lots of  ;D and a little  >:(.  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like. :(

The  >:( first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about.

  I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log. :

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  >:()

 

Now the  ;D (with a bit of  :). ;)

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. :)

  

  

   I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it. :-[

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!!   4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM

[dgdrls]

Bit of an update.  Lots of  ;D and a little  >:(.  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like. :(

The  >:( first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about.

  I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log. :

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  >:()

 

Now the  ;D (with a bit of  :). ;)

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. :)

  

  

   I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it. :-[

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!!   4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM

No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD

[thecfarm]

Stupid drywall screw.  :(  That is too bad. It's an adventure and than some. ;D
Good luck with the search for the Saw Doctor.

[GDinMaine]

Drywall screws are great when you want to hold things together and they are very tough.  Unfortunately that toughness is what you don't want when hitting it with a saw.  I had the "luck" to hit one of those before, it was not fun at all.  I'm learning that some nails are much softer and even a bandsaw can keep going after the encounter.

[Seaman]

John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 

[JohnM]

No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD

Yeah that's what I was thinking, DGD, I'm familiar with the anti-seize stuff but have never used it.  Loctite makes so many products now saying 'Loctite' doesn't mean what it used to mean.

John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 

I'll look local first but thank you for the heads up Frank.  Hoping I won't have to send it off to NC! :D

[terrifictimbersllc]

Sharp Tool Co in Hudson, Ma does a good job with my Peterson 6 tooth blades, about $55 I think for complete re-tip /flatness check-adjustment.  But you got UPS on top of that.

[JohnM]

Well this is getting annoying...

 
Blade number two down.  BTW I did find a local place to retip my blades, Quality Saw and Supply, West Enfield, ME.  I'm waiting to get the first one back before I send this one.  I'm really hoping they know what they're doing, mostly because it would make life easier but also they said it would only be $40.  And all I have to do is drop off/pick up at Peavey Mfg 7 miles down the road not the hour drive to Enfield. 8)

The ants can finish their work with the log.  Just rolled into the woods, I'm done with it! >:(   

  Researching metal detectors now. :(

Did manage to finish one project at least.  My wife has been wanting a garden sink for quite awhile.  The sink can be pulled out and drop the top on for surface area if need be.  I'll hook a real faucet to it some day. :

  

 

Here's to a good saw doc and no more *&%^%#@ screws!   I hope...

JM

[Jim_Rogers]

I just went to radio shack and bought one off the shelf. Metal detector that is. The one I got has a switch on it to eliminate "trash metal". I leave that switch off, so that it picks up all trash metal and it has work for me for years.

I think I paid something like $129 or $149 for it.
I charge back the logger for blade damage if I hit metal in his logs.
I charge back the customer if I hit metal in his logs.

I charge the customer to scan his logs. These fees have paid for this metal detector many times, I would think.

If you're sawing your own logs then you still need one and scan all the butt logs.

Jim Rogers

[thecfarm]

John,you are having no luck at all.   :(  The only metal I hit is on the mill.  : Nice job on the sink.

[GDinMaine]

That is quite a drag that you happened to find another sheetrock screw with the mill.  They are among the toughest ones to saw.  Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

[JohnM]

Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

This screw got all five tips. :(  From what I understand it's an all or nothing thing anyway.  If you replace one tip you have to replace them all, which makes sense, you can't have different tips at different wear points on the same blade. (I think... ???)

JM

[sigidi]

Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

This screw got all five tips. :(  From what I understand it's an all or nothing thing anyway.  If you replace one tip you have to replace them all, which makes sense, you can't have different tips at different wear points on the same blade. (I think... ???)

JM

Geese mate!!!

two hits so early in your career!!! that sucks. I fell ya pain  :(

You can get one or two teeth replaced, but it isn't economical. Essentially saw doc will grind back the new teeth to match the 'use' of the remaining teeth - this way they will all be even, but it means you end up sending the saw to the doc and getting a 'used' saw back. Also another thing to factor into it, the other teeth may not have chipped/broken, but they may have been hit by either the screw/nail/bolt or even pieces of the other teeth and have hairline fractures in them which could let go on a knot down the track.

For me I will keep using a chipped blade right up until that 'group' of log is finished or the tooth pocket becomes exposed. If there is still tungsten covering the tooth pocket it will be ok, once the pocket is exposed, regardless of how many teeth are damaged take it off or you will be forever paying extra for that blade to be tipped as the sawblade pocket will wear and saw cod will have to do lots of 'special' work to it each time it comes in.

Good luck and I hope your saw doc does a great job for you  ;)

[Klicker]

If you keep up at this pace you will pass me in no time.  8) I hope you don't. :embarassed:

[KnotBB]

I get my blades re-tipped for just under $30 and that;s up from $25 last year.  10 mile drive and since I'm on his route he delivers the finished blade to my front porch.  I think I must have it good.  He has a copy of the page in the saw manual with the saw specs.
The only problem I've had with the shop was on diameter.  Diameter is critical!!!! Too big and you get over cut, too small and the boards stay hooked to the log.   It's not like the blades on the big circle mills in that respect.  You might mention it.

[JohnM]

He has a copy of the page in the saw manual with the saw specs.

Knot, I actually thought ahead (surprised myself ;D) and sent a copy of that page with the mill, whether or not the guy uses it is another question.  I'm small potatoes for these guys, they do blades for companies all over the state; sawmills, feller bunchers, you name it.  We'll see how it goes.  Are the Lucas blades unique to the mills?  I know they are different from say the Petersons (5 tips to 6) but are there other factors evolved?

For me I will keep using a chipped blade right up until that 'group' of log is finished or the tooth pocket becomes exposed. If there is still tungsten covering the tooth pocket it will be ok, once the pocket is exposed, regardless of how many teeth are damaged take it off or you will be forever paying extra for that blade to be tipped as the sawblade pocket will wear and saw cod will have to do lots of 'special' work to it each time it comes in.

Good info as always, Sig.  Thank you.

JM

[sigidi]

Good info as always, Sig.  Thank you.

JM

;)

[JohnM]

I know I'm digging up old bones with this thread but thought it was fitting considering the date.  A year to the day has gone by since I brought my 'new to me' mill home and yesterday I 'started' (and as it turned out 'finished') my first saw job.  To be honest.......it didn't go well. :D  All packed and looking forward to the adventure.

 

I had done a small amount of sawing (for free) for a friend last fall and ended up doing some sawing (for cash) for a neighbor of his while there, but this was the first job as a result of my CL ad so I consider it my first 'real' job.  It was not a complete failure, I lost money (and than some :) but I learned A LOT!  First, be very clear and unbending (within reason) about pricing and time spent on the job.  I had stopped by earlier in the week and looked at the logs (hemlock) and they were all 24' and 'scattered' beside the driveway.  While on the phone with the guy I agreed I'd only charge him hours on the mill if he bucked up the logs and staged them, otherwise I'd have to charge for my time helping with that.  That "if" apparently fell on deaf ears.  I got there yesterday at about 11:45am (he works nights and needed time to adjust to a weekend schedule), I left at around 6:45pm.

We spent quite a bit of time trying to get the mill set-up as we had to work basically in the driveway which is on quite a steep slope.  I had forgotten my log bearers at home which didn't help. :-[  Then we spent, I think, two hours moving the logs into the drive.

 

We got through may half of the total pile with 2.3 hours on the mill.  It was really a bit of a nightmare and the set-up was sub-par at best.  All told we ended with about 370bf of lumber, 40 2x4s and assorted 1x's.

  

 

So I went back this morning and before we did anything I told him, "I can't do all this messing with the logs for free", or something to that effect.  Wasn't mad just stating facts.  He was very understanding but said he couldn't afford any 'extra' costs.  We agreed to a 'conscious uncoupling' (google it :D), he paid me my 2.3 hours (and not a penny more :), I packed up and went home.  No harm, no foul.

Second lesson, don't forget your log bearers. :-\ ??? ;D

The adventure continues.....

[WDH]

I hate cheapskate customers.  I had one today, too, that came to buy some white oak.  Next time he calls, I won't have any  . 

[Nomad]

     John, it sounds to me like you did the best thing you could do under the circumstances.  You didn't Pith off the customer, and you didn't lose your butt either.  From what you've said it seems like you let him put you in a "no-win" situation. 
      You should have charged him for time on site and not time on the meter.  But you're learning as you go, right?  It's a mistake you won't make again. :-\
     I always charge from the time I show up.  That includes offloading, setting up the slabber if using it, etc.  As well as sharpening on site, moving logs, and so on.  And the rate stays the same.  I make sure the customer understands all that up front.  Moving the boards or slabs out of the mill is his problem.  I can stand there all day waiting if I have to.  If he has an issue, get somebody else to do it.
     I'm not saying this is the right way to do it.  Just the way I do it.

[thecfarm]

I do hope the next job is better. Sorry to hear of the trouble you had with the customer.

[Klicker]

I have been treated fairly more then  not.

[Seaman]

Good on you John for getting out there and learning!
The above is the reason I only cut logs too big for a bandmill, but that is just me.
Frank

[Ianab]

It's not a mill problem, it's a customer site problem If you had turned up with a full hydraulic band mill, it would still have been a mess.

Now if you are cutting oversize logs, then "where they lay" is an option. Easier to move the mill VS a 3 or 4 ton log. But when you are dealing with smaller logs, they need to be trimmed and stacked, same as any other milling operation. Scattered around? Not a big deal if you have tractor and forks to organise things.  Otherwise, yeah, you have to walk away

[GDinMaine]

Good for you John!  Learning to deal with customers is a moving target.
I always tell my people that I charge by the hour on the meter. If I have to do tasks that they could have done, I just leave the engine running.  I move lumber, slabs and logs. No problem.  The clock only stops when I eat my lunch or I shoot the breeze about something that is not related to sawing the logs.

[Seaman]

John,
I agree with GD. I have a $550 min, which covers the first 7 hrs of sawing.
You have to find a number you are good with for loosing a day away from home, cause it always turns into a whole day by the time you set back up at home.
I also have been treated fairly a great majority of the time.

Anything I do is on the clock, cause it is preventing me from making money somewhere else. It is tempting to be the nice guy and help everyone out, but also a good way to run a business into the ground.
My .02

Frank

[JohnM]

Thanks for the encouragement guys.  He knew he was getting a deal.  He pretended to be ignorant on some stuff, which he was to some extent, but he knew I was working a lot for a little.  And he was very understanding and didn't appear upset when I came back and said I can't put in this much time wrestling his logs and not get paid.  I mention in my ad that the mill is very portable, he took that to mean you can set it up anywhere! : :D  Like I said, at least I learned what I'm not willing to do!

I'm thinking of a two tier payment system.  Clock starts when I get set-up, stops at the last log, customer pays the hours on the mill at one rate and a lower 'labor' rate for non-sawing activity.  The reason I'm thinking about this is, as WDH pointed out, ppl are cheap (and/or lower income) up here.  The state has roughly 1.3mil ppl half of which live 2+hrs from my location, the other half are spread out over an area the size Massachusetts (and than some).  The rates some of you guys talk about just flat wouldn't work up here.  I think it's awesome that you get those rates, I just don't see them up here.  Population = money (simplistic often true).

The above is the reason I only cut logs too big for a bandmill, but that is just me.
Frank

Frank, that is my ultimate goal, that and selling slabs.  For now I'm content to do what I can and with the amount of repairs and projects I want to do to or around this old farmhouse the mill will pay for its self in lumber alone for what I paid for it.

[Seaman]

John,
sounds like a sound plan. I still recommend a minimum, to keep someone from changing their mind halfway thru a job.
Frank

[sigidi]

John, down here, I charge by volume of log ($250/cubic metre) for sawblade work and hourly ($150/hr)for slabber work. Oh, I also charge a small board fee of 10% if they want whole logs into 1" boards.

With a minimum 2 cubic metres for sawblade work and 4 hours for slabber work. IF the logs are in one pile ready to go with access next to the pile big enough for the mill - this way its up to me how long I take to get logs loaded into the mill or how long the job takes.

If I have to move the mill, it's $50 per move after initial setup.  If I have to 'organise/skid' logs into place its $50/hr until they are in position to mill. If I have to spend time on a chainsaw docking up bad logs or 'cutting firewood with that BIG saw' its $50/hr. All log rolling is done to begin with, milling is then done and then extra stuff is done once milling is finished so it can all be neatly tallied and easy for them to add up.

If I have to travel more than my local area - about 50k, I charge 40c per kilometre each way, each day. If they want the Bobcat onsite, I charge 80c per kilometre each way and charge the bobcat at $66/hr by the hour meter on the machine.

They get timber grading included in the price, onsite sharpening included, first setup of the mill, as many blades as are needed to finish the job through normal wear and tear and I provide everything needed for the job - fuel, chainsaw/s, mill water, my own food,my own bed if more than a day job but I don't stack in their shed or some other place other than directly next to the mill. Until it's right at the end of milling then its $50/hr.

Mind you, having said all this - this is almost 11 years down the track with 3 mills under my belt and many kg's of sawdust from my first year of makin the dust ;) and I'd like to think there isn't a problem I will come across that I won't be able to pre-empt and therefore negate before it becomes a problem or rectify in a very short space of time. If there is something I have messed up, its taken out of the equation and not payed for.

And something I learnt from an old forumite TOM (God rest his soul), who passed a while ago, I always look for something to give them a discount on ;)

[logboy]

Write yourself a packing list that you go over when prepping for each job. That will keep you from forgetting stuff. Plan for the worst and hope for the best. Always bring spare parts.

Everything has a price.  Everything.  If the logs aren't staged then this is what it costs. If the logs are dirty then this is what it costs.  If you have to move the mill then this is what it costs. If you hit metal this is what it costs.  You're not a charity, you're a business. If they want you to work for free they can find someone else.

Set a minimum cost for on site work or traveling.  This will scare away guys who have $100 in their pocket but want $500 worth of sawing.

Do not race your competitors to the bottom.  Too many people look at this as a small dream job or hobby instead of a business so they undercut everyone else so they have work coming in.  But you won't make any money that way and you're only screwing over your competitors who also have equipment to pay for. When everybody is sawing to break even then nobody is making any money.  It's why I do very little lumber nowadays. Everybody around here knows someone with a bandsaw who will cut for next to nothing. Go ahead and take it to them. They can run their equipment for free. I'm so backed up with my niche of slabbing that I don't have time to saw your $1,000 walnut firewood log into 1"x4" lumber anyway.

[sigidi]

Write yourself a packing list that you go over when prepping for each job. That will keep you from forgetting stuff. Plan for the worst and hope for the best. Always bring spare parts.

Everything has a price.  Everything.  If the logs aren't staged then this is what it costs. If the logs are dirty then this is what it costs.  If you have to move the mill then this is what it costs. If you hit metal this is what it costs.  You're not a charity, you're a business. If they want you to work for free they can find someone else.

Set a minimum cost for on site work or traveling.  This will scare away guys who have $100 in their pocket but want $500 worth of sawing.

Do not race your competitors to the bottom.  Too many people look at this as a small dream job or hobby instead of a business so they undercut everyone else so they have work coming in.  But you won't make any money that way and you're only screwing over your competitors who also have equipment to pay for. When everybody is sawing to break even then nobody is making any money.  It's why I do very little lumber nowadays. Everybody around here knows someone with a bandsaw who will cut for next to nothing. Go ahead and take it to them. They can run their equipment for free. I'm so backed up with my niche of slabbing that I don't have time to saw your $1,000 walnut firewood log into 1"x4" lumber anyway.

Good to see you back online mate ;)

[JohnM]

Good to see you back online mate ;)

x2!!!  Great advice logboy, thank you!