The (Lucas Mill) Adventure Begins...

[sigidi]

John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.

I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.

You sorted out the grinder ok, that pink wheel is for chains - good spotting. although having said this the grinder apparently won't be able to slide back to 10 deg to sharpen slabber chains. not sure how correct this is, was told that on my first mill and never tried it personally. With respect to the play in the sharpener, try and identify where it is coming from. My first experience with the grinders, I put a large body washer behind the wingnut used to tension it to the frame, this helped stabilise it on the bracket a whole heap. But you might find there is some play in the housing the grinder pivots off - maybe the last fella wasn't very gentle with it? With the switch, you may be able to free it up with a short spray of wd-40, where the sticker should be.

So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? is that how you flattened your battery? another thing to remember - the water bottle has a little nipple moulded into the bottom of it, if the bottle/blade guard isn't seated properly it won't deactivate the kill switch under the bottle and the motor won't fire - she'll turn over but not fire up.

Good work mate well done on your first service 

[JohnM]

John with your gearbox, that scribed line on the dipstick is 'full' and you have to make sure the mill is 'level' when checking/changing your gearbox oil - but it looks like you did that with the bucket on your tractor, for future reference (and others) make sure the carriage rails are level (left to right) when checking oil levels.

  If that's the case, Sig, I don't understand the point of the 'oil level' nut.

 

I also have the other type of throttle, but my 6-18 had this kind of throttle, having said that it didn't have 'two notches'. Best thing I can suggest is is see what revs you run at for each notch - the mill should run at 3600 rpm. If the lower of the two notches is 3600, then no problem.If the higher one (that keeps jumping out) is the 3600 position then see what you can do to 'hold it' in place while cutting.

  I shouldn't have numbered them and pic isn't great.  There is only one notch for that little point on the throttle arm to sit in.  (Am I making this worse? )  I ran it yesterday (before nearly blowing up my engine  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,67162.0.html) without 'gunning' it (ie leaving it in the notch) and it sounded like the engine would rev up on it's own when it would hit a knot or bog down.  I believe that's the proper way, I was just going on what the guy that sold it showed me.

So John, after you 'found' that second spark plug, you just didn't wanna put it back??? is that how you flattened your battery?

  Just never plugged the first one back in.

Made myself some stepped 'bearers' (as they are called in the manual ), waaaay easier than trying to wrestle the log up an incline.  Sig, going use your trick and replace the bottom 'step' with a wider one for bracing a pole for log positioning/turning.

 

This log was still a bit of a struggle because of the crotch.

 

I'll keep y'all posted.

JM

[sigidi]

John, I'm not sure why with your gearbox the oil at the level of that bolt isn't 'full' - it has been with all 3 of mine. Where the carriage rails level left to right? and was the gearbox 'locked' into horizontal position for the blade (not sitting on the outside of the nut/bolt where the swing over handle sits under?)

Even with one plug lead on the engine I'd think it should fire up, but run rough as guts though...

Having those stepped bearers would make it a bit easier to 'rest' in spots when rolling logs in, but how heavy is each one? Wait what am I saying we pick up heavy stuff all day 

Good onya mate

[dgdrls]

OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.
Also when I filled the gearbox with the full level plug out, I filled it until the oil was running out about the middle of the hole not just lapping on the edge.

Sorry if I caused confusion, I'm on the same learning curve

Best
DGD

[Klicker]

John I hope your motor is ok.

[sigidi]

OK John, sanity check.  I rechecked my gearbox oil and tried to recall what I did and if I really was a little down on the stick as I indicated earlier.
I recall it seemed low but thought did I screw in the dip stick when I checked it?

I rechecked it tonight,  pulled the stick, wiped it down, screwed it back in pulled out, right at the line.


Best
DGD

YES, the dipstick needs to be screwed in to check the level - sorry I never even considered it was being dipped rather than 'screwed in', My bad fella's

Hope all is good for ya John

[KnotBB]

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

[JohnM]

Bit of an update.  Lots of  and a little  .  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like.

The  first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about.

  I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log.

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  )

 

Now the  (with a bit of  ).

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. )

  

  

   I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it.

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!!   4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

  Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM
 

[dgdrls]

Bit of an update.  Lots of  and a little  .  And not nearly as much time on the mill as I'd like.

The  first.  Found my first metal.  A drywall screw (possibly stainless) that had no business being in these trees I'm cutting up, no idea where it came from.  Can't explain the sound but it wasn't the 'zing' you band guys talk about.

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) I didn't move it for the pic, it was sitting right there on the log.

I need to find a saw doc ASAP. Stupid little screw took out 3 of 5 teeth. (more  )

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Now the  (with a bit of  ).

My shop is full of lumber and half finished projects.  (Will post finished projects soon......I hope. )

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) 

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) 

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)  I have got to either clean up my shop or stop taking pictures of it.

Hoping to get back to milling soon but need to finish these projects and several others first.  And while it seems half the country is drowning we are in a heatwave at our place.  Hit 98° here yesterday!!   4 days in a row above 90, unheard of around here.  Don't like it one bit.

If you didn't see it in the manual you need to put a little anti-seize grease on the bolts that hold the saw blade/slabber drive sprocket on the motor drive end.  Makes taking it off a lot easier.   Just a little dab will do you.

  Will do Knot, thanks!  (I assume that means Loctite or similar product, correct?)

JM

No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD

 

[thecfarm]

Stupid drywall screw.    That is too bad. It's an adventure and than some.
Good luck with the search for the Saw Doctor.

[GDinMaine]

Drywall screws are great when you want to hold things together and they are very tough.  Unfortunately that toughness is what you don't want when hitting it with a saw.  I had the "luck" to hit one of those before, it was not fun at all.  I'm learning that some nails are much softer and even a bandsaw can keep going after the encounter.

[Seaman]

John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 

[JohnM]

No, not loctite in the sense of thread locker, anti-seize resists moisture and thread galling.  Usually silver colored and labeled as such.
It is produced under the loctite, permatex and other brand labels.

DGD

Yeah that's what I was thinking, DGD, I'm familiar with the anti-seize stuff but have never used it.  Loctite makes so many products now saying 'Loctite' doesn't mean what it used to mean.

John, we have a good on here who is familuar with lucas blades. SPD Lee also used him for a large circle blade.
If you cannot find anyone in your area I can put you in touch. He charged $52 to replace all the teeth and hammer for tension, and it cuts great. He actually put on teeth which are a little narrower, and I now get no bounce when vertical cutting 8 in. in hardwood.
I wrap mine in cardboard for shipping UPS.
Frank 

I'll look local first but thank you for the heads up Frank.  Hoping I won't have to send it off to NC!

[terrifictimbersllc]

Sharp Tool Co in Hudson, Ma does a good job with my Peterson 6 tooth blades, about $55 I think for complete re-tip /flatness check-adjustment.  But you got UPS on top of that.

[JohnM]

Well this is getting annoying...

 
Blade number two down.  BTW I did find a local place to retip my blades, Quality Saw and Supply, West Enfield, ME.  I'm waiting to get the first one back before I send this one.  I'm really hoping they know what they're doing, mostly because it would make life easier but also they said it would only be $40.  And all I have to do is drop off/pick up at Peavey Mfg 7 miles down the road not the hour drive to Enfield.

The ants can finish their work with the log.  Just rolled into the woods, I'm done with it!    

  Researching metal detectors now.

Did manage to finish one project at least.  My wife has been wanting a garden sink for quite awhile.  The sink can be pulled out and drop the top on for surface area if need be.  I'll hook a real faucet to it some day.

  

 

Here's to a good saw doc and no more *&%^%#@ screws!   I hope...

JM

[Jim_Rogers]

I just went to radio shack and bought one off the shelf. Metal detector that is. The one I got has a switch on it to eliminate "trash metal". I leave that switch off, so that it picks up all trash metal and it has work for me for years.

I think I paid something like $129 or $149 for it.
I charge back the logger for blade damage if I hit metal in his logs.
I charge back the customer if I hit metal in his logs.

I charge the customer to scan his logs. These fees have paid for this metal detector many times, I would think.

If you're sawing your own logs then you still need one and scan all the butt logs.

Jim Rogers

[thecfarm]

John,you are having no luck at all.     The only metal I hit is on the mill.  Nice job on the sink.

[GDinMaine]

That is quite a drag that you happened to find another sheetrock screw with the mill.  They are among the toughest ones to saw.  Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

[JohnM]

Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

  This screw got all five tips.   From what I understand it's an all or nothing thing anyway.  If you replace one tip you have to replace them all, which makes sense, you can't have different tips at different wear points on the same blade. (I think... )

JM

[sigidi]

Does the second blade have to re-tipped too?

  This screw got all five tips.   From what I understand it's an all or nothing thing anyway.  If you replace one tip you have to replace them all, which makes sense, you can't have different tips at different wear points on the same blade. (I think... )

JM

Geese mate!!!

two hits so early in your career!!! that sucks. I fell ya pain 

You can get one or two teeth replaced, but it isn't economical. Essentially saw doc will grind back the new teeth to match the 'use' of the remaining teeth - this way they will all be even, but it means you end up sending the saw to the doc and getting a 'used' saw back. Also another thing to factor into it, the other teeth may not have chipped/broken, but they may have been hit by either the screw/nail/bolt or even pieces of the other teeth and have hairline fractures in them which could let go on a knot down the track.

For me I will keep using a chipped blade right up until that 'group' of log is finished or the tooth pocket becomes exposed. If there is still tungsten covering the tooth pocket it will be ok, once the pocket is exposed, regardless of how many teeth are damaged take it off or you will be forever paying extra for that blade to be tipped as the sawblade pocket will wear and saw cod will have to do lots of 'special' work to it each time it comes in.

Good luck and I hope your saw doc does a great job for you