Author Topic: Brand New Boat Anchor (Read 3348 times)

rmack · « **on:** March 02, 2013, 03:58:14 PM »

Well, I went to look at an old Belsaw 802 twin edger and couldn't help but drag it home. looks like it's going to be a while before it cuts again but at least it's a place to start.

isawlogs · « **Reply #1 on:** March 02, 2013, 04:06:32 PM »

Hey, it ain't all that bad, it does still have some paint on it in some places.

That will be a nice edger once you give it a go over, a little elbow grease and some TLC will go far.

redbeard · « **Reply #2 on:** March 02, 2013, 04:15:56 PM »

I would have picked that up also, if its to far gone it would make nice log yard art. Nice score!

Magicman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2013, 04:39:53 PM »

Just how big is your boat anyway

drobertson · « **Reply #4 on:** March 02, 2013, 04:56:13 PM »

Sometimes you got to do, what you got to do

It ought to work, given enough tlc,

loggah · « **Reply #5 on:** March 02, 2013, 05:55:31 PM »

looks good to me!! but most of my stuff is rusty!

POSTON WIDEHEAD · « **Reply #6 on:** March 02, 2013, 06:18:50 PM »

Put a little earl on it and see if it will move.

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** March 02, 2013, 06:36:45 PM »

Not earl, but genuine Blue Creeper. Nothing better for this application.

rmack · « **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2013, 09:10:24 PM »

Surprising enough, most everything is free. The moveable saw is frozen on the arbor but I think it'll come loose fairly easy. Infeed/outfeed rollers all spin though the bearings are all bad. main bearings spin nice and smooth, but no visible place to grease them. blades are 12" so hopefully it will go to 4" lumber.

The worst of it seems to be bent and welded, and welded bent issues... fortunately I should be able to deal with that.

Peter Drouin · « **Reply #9 on:** March 03, 2013, 06:45:58 AM »

Good luck

Chuck White · « **Reply #10 on:** March 03, 2013, 07:58:10 AM »

Looks to still be in good shape, just got neglected!

Put the Creeper to it!

justallan1 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 04, 2013, 09:10:08 AM »

That looks like it's going to be a project. Looks like lots of fun

It will be nice when it's done though.
Allan

rmack · « **Reply #12 on:** March 05, 2013, 10:33:48 AM »

btw, I almost forgot, the guy I bought this from also has what he called a left hand mandrel for driving a circle mill saw. He said it is threaded differently for driving the saw from the carriage side so you don't have the drive shaft between you and the boards/flitches etc.

I bought the 48" saw that he was going to use, but have his contact info if anyone is interested.

rmack · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2013, 04:20:12 PM »

So anyways, I'm thinking that the best thing to do is start from scratch and basically build a new edger based on this design.

What would the rpm limit be for those saws? I'm thinking of using the same feed speed ratios but cranking the input rpm up. I do have access to some 40hp range diesel engines and can fabricate the frame etc out of steel.

Does anyone know what the main shaft operating rpm range would have been for the original belt driven pto design?

Piston · « **Reply #14 on:** June 16, 2013, 07:20:44 PM »

I can't believe it didn't even come with an anchor line.

clww · « **Reply #15 on:** June 16, 2013, 07:46:57 PM »

Very cool!

Brucer · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:18:51 AM »

A couple of safety issues to consider...

You need to have the top of your saw blade well above the top of the boards you are edging. The less blade is exposed at the top, the greater the chances of a board getting fired back at the operator.

Find out what the maximum RPM is before you run it, and don't exceed that limit. Also don't move the main support bearings further apart and don't add anymore weight to the main shaft. If you do any of these, there is a good chance you will set up a resonant condition that can cause something to fail suddenly. One of my former high school classmates lost her husband when the sawmill he was refurbishing blew apart.

mayor · « **Reply #17 on:** June 19, 2013, 06:32:37 PM »

I rebuilt one and if you need any pics. just give me a holler. They work really well once you have it adjusted!.

customsawyer · « **Reply #18 on:** June 19, 2013, 07:07:37 PM »

If you are going to build a new edger then you have lots of parts you could steal off of your anchor.

rmack · « **Reply #19 on:** June 19, 2013, 10:31:24 PM »

Quote from: Brucer on June 17, 2013, 01:18:51 AM

A couple of safety issues to consider...

You need to have the top of your saw blade well above the top of the boards you are edging. The less blade is exposed at the top, the greater the chances of a board getting fired back at the operator.

Find out what the maximum RPM is before you run it, and don't exceed that limit. Also don't move the main support bearings further apart and don't add anymore weight to the main shaft. If you do any of these, there is a good chance you will set up a resonant condition that can cause something to fail suddenly. One of my former high school classmates lost her husband when the sawmill he was refurbishing blew apart.

I certainly don't want things, inc saw inserts, flying apart on me... also, I have been thinking, why would I ever want to manhandle a 4" thick slab?

Quote from: mayor on June 19, 2013, 06:32:37 PM

I rebuilt one and if you need any pics. just give me a holler. They work really well once you have it adjusted!.

I may well take you up on that offer.

Quote from: customsawyer on June 19, 2013, 07:07:37 PM

If you are going to build a new edger then you have lots of parts you could steal off of your anchor.

I was thinking of copying the pieces that are there, with improvements where things have not stood up, particularly the bearings, however, the whole thing really looks beat up. pretty well everything I inspect closely is bent, nonetheless its probably a good reference.

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Author Topic: Brand New Boat Anchor (Read 3348 times)

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