Newbie Seeks Advice

[plaindriver]

Retired last yr, moved from SoKalif to Cumberland Plateau region of E. Tn. On a 5 ac parcel, mostly woods. We felled over a hundred fairly large trees, attempting   to reduce the sun canopy and make room for a vegetable garden plot. Now I have a pretty good rack (for me) of logs. I just ordered a Woodland Mills bandsaw.
I am building a workshop (toy shop/man cave) for the mill, various personal woodworking tools, etc. So now I have a "chicken or egg first" predicament. I would like to mill most if not all the timber to build the shop. It will be 52' x 28', 4/12 pitch metal roof, 10' framing, and use pre-made trusses. All my log stock was harvested betw Oct '12 and May '13. Almost all is White Oak, a bit of maple in there.
I hope to cut some 2 by framing timber, and some 1 by for siding, board and batten.
BUT, will the milled lumber twist and warp on me? Will I need to let it dry out for a yr prior to using? Is wht oak too hard to use for framing (IE not receptive to nails)? I am hoping there are some wiley old veterans who can advise me. Thanks.

  

 

[WH_Conley]

I usually build as soon as I can after it comes off the saw. Don't be skimpy with the bracing, green wood will move. I feel you have a better chance holding it where you want it in a structure than in a stack. That's where the extra bracing comes in.

[Andy White]

plaindriver

That is a nice whack o logs you've got there!  From my own experience using the same mill, assemble it per book, and tie down or anchor it so it stays level and flat. This is the most important thing to getting good lumber. I ended up anchor bolting mine to the concrete. Once setup, saw and nail, saw and nail.  Have fun.    Andy

[Chuck White]

Being hardwood, if it were me, I would build the barn, shed, etc with green wood.

I would have help there to nail it together as soon as it comes off the mill.

For outbuildings, if it moves a little, who cares!

[customsawyer]

I would use it fresh off of the mill. You will have to drill all of the wholes to get nails in it if it dries.

[Larry]

I built a pretty good size horse barn out of mixed green oak one summer.  I framed the roof and the rafters developed a little sag since they were green.  Live and learn.  Everything else worked fine.  All my lumber was a full 2 by…another mistake as 1-1/2” would have worked.  As I nailed I had a little can of transmission oil I kept my nails in.  Helped a little but I still bent plenty.  Most of the nail guns today will easily drive a nail in oak.  I wouldn’t even consider using a hammer again even if I was 30 and full of P & vinegar.  If you can drive the nail it’s too hard on the elbow and those elbows can get expensive.