Wedging/Quarter Sawing Oversized Logs?

[Deese]

My EZ Boardwalk Jr will supposably cut up to a 30" diamater log.


  

 

I believe EZland said that I will not be able to use the clamps on such a log, that I would have to "wedge" it.
I am a bit confused as to what this means...I would rather not split the log in half with a chainsaw if I can somehow fit the whole thing securely on the mill.

Can someone help me understand this?

Also, should I consider quarter sawing some of the ones that have no knots in them?

I've got about 30 of these (8'6" long).

Any help would be appreciated!

[Deese]

I guess wedging the log in place simply means scotching it with wedges along the track to keep it from rolling?
That's the only thing I can think of... ???

[fishpharmer]

If you have a way to get those logs on the mill, the weight of the log will be enough to hold it down.  However the curvature will allow it to rock on the first cut.  Put some wood or plastic wedges on each side between the log and bunk to hold it steady.  When you flip it over to the flat side it won't rock and the weight should be enough to hold it until you get a cant.

Hope that makes sense?

[fishpharmer]

Yes, "scotch it"

[Deese]

Thanks fishpharmer. That makes perfect sense.

I realize that it will be a daunting task to quarter saw some of the best looking ones, but do you think it would be worth the effort? The fella buying them doesn't care one way or the other...so I would only consider doing a few of them...

Also, with the logs with a centered pith and no obvious signs of stress, could I just get two flat sides and then just slab them all the way down without continously turning the log?

[Jim_Rogers]

I think if you did a search here on the FF you'll find all kinds of images and drawings showing you how you could quarter saw a good clear butt log.

There are many methods to do it and you can pick one that works for you.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers

[Deese]

Thanks for the suggestion Jim. I'll keep y'all posted on how this pans out...

[dgdrls]

Deese,  vines or P.I. on those dandies??

good luck,  photos too!!

DGDrls

[Nomad]

     Oversize logs are a challenge, no doubt about it.  But Deese, why would you want to go out of your way to quartersaw pine?  Do you have some reason for doing that?

[hackberry jake]

30" is the max. If its not perfectly straight you will probably have to trim a little off each side with the chainsaw to get the carriage to pass. I wouldnt qsaw pine. It seems to me like pine moves more qsawn than flatsawn. You will want to keep the pith out of the majority of boards. If I were you I would square it up and then take boards off one side til u get close to the pith (center) of the log. Flip it 180* and do it again. Once you have the pith in a 3.5" thick piece, flip it 90* and start making 2x4s. Or 5.5" for 2x6s.

[kelLOGg]

Here's what you need to do. Just as others have said, four small wedges can go a LONG way in keeping a big log stable. This is a redoak I am Qsawing about the size of your pine. It just fits between the posts.  I have found that if you put the wedges in place while the squaring arms are up you can usually slide the whole assembly (log + wedges ) as a unit. Have a pry bar handy to slide the log into position so the posts pass over it. Just go slow, think it through and be careful.
Bob



 

[Deese]

Deese,  vines or P.I. on those dandies??

good luck,  photos too!!

DGDrls

Yes poison ivy. I cut the vines a few weeks ago. Dry and crispy now  ;D

[Deese]

     Oversize logs are a challenge, no doubt about it.  But Deese, why would you want to go out of your way to quartersaw pine?  Do you have some reason for doing that?

Well, my stepdad was an exceptional furniture maker/woodworker/home builder who loved working with heart pine lumber. He died of colon cancer about 5 years ago at the age of 43. This is a hallway table he made. It doesn't have a single piece of metal in it. All wood, and as strong and stable as any table you will ever come across...

I thought it would build a replica with quarter sawn---no knots---all straight grain parallel lengthwise with the length of the tabletop. It may be years before I build the table, but I would have the material when the right time comes along...


  

 

[Deese]

If you look closely at the grain in the first pic, you will see that the top is actually 3 boards. He was really good at hiding joints.

[fishpharmer]

Deese, very nice table.  Your stepdad probably would have been honored to know you want to replicate his craftsmanship. 

Quartersawn SYP is nice looking lumber.  A few years ago I produced some with the Lucas 618 mill.   

[Deese]

If I were you I would square it up and then take boards off one side til u get close to the pith (center) of the log. Flip it 180* and do it again. Once you have the pith in a 3.5" thick piece, flip it 90* and start making 2x4s. Or 5.5" for 2x6s.

This is probably what I will do. Thanks Jake.

Here's what you need to do. Just as others have said, four small wedges can go a LONG way in keeping a big log stable. This is a redoak I am Qsawing about the size of your pine. It just fits between the posts.  I have found that if you put the wedges in place while the squaring arms are up you can usually slide the whole assembly (log + wedges ) as a unit. Have a pry bar handy to slide the log into position so the posts pass over it. Just go slow, think it through and be careful.
Bob



 

Bob, thanks for the tips. This will be quite a learning experience for me. Thanks everyone for the advice!

[Deese]

Thanks fishpharmer, I plan on quarter sawing some just to see what it looks like...but not much

[schmism]

I didnt think pine benefited from being QS.  ie it doesn't tiger strip or produce the same effect as you get with something like oak or ash.

[customsawyer]

Those are some fine logs but I would not go to the trouble of quarter sawing them. The only way I would consider it is if you need vertical grain in special joints on your table.
That table is nice also.

[kelLOGg]

Deese,

Beautiful table. If you will, I would love to see pics of the underside showing details of the joinery.e.g., does the tabletop "float" to allow for different expansion rates of the top and apron with humidity?
Bob

[Ianab]

There are no hard and fast rules about how you have to saw a log.

You could take that big log, wedge it in place on the mill and trim the top off. 

Then flip it 180 and trim off the other side.

Now stand the log up again (your clamps should now fit) and just saw it to the deck. A whole heap of ~24" wide boards (that the mill will cut)

You will get a few boards from the centre of the log that will basically be Q-sawn (after you rip out the heart) Plenty enough to make a VG table in the same style anyway. You don't try and Q-saw the whole log, but you get a few perfect q-sawn boards, and a heap of useful flat / rift as well.

A bit of extra edging maybe but that's no big deal?

Ian

[hackberry jake]

Ian has a good point. Even if you just saw everything flatsawn, odds atlre you still end up with some qsawn boards every once in a while.

[WDH]

Very nice table, Deese.

[bushhog920]

qs pine will crook which is worse than cuping to me. i would rather have straight boards with some cup than flat crooked ones. go flat sawn unless short boards are want you want.

[Magicman]

Since Pine lumber is soft compared with the Oak's, etc., when used as flooring it was very commonly QS.  That way the edge grain would wear better and be much more durable.  As stated above, you will always get some QS lumber when you flat saw, and you would not have the waste accompanied with QS.

Nice table and memories. 

[bandmiller2]

Deese,when you push the limits of your mill be sure you have a chainsaw handy as you will need to nip and tuck.Mills are a little different some the uprights will limit you on width others the saw guides.Some logs you will be limited by how high your head will rise.If you have take a heavy top slab and are hight challenged don't use the full hight leave yourself a quarter inch so you can clear the surface on gigback.Sight everything before you cut as its easier to trim without the sawhead jammed into the log. Frank C.

[Deese]

Deese,

Beautiful table. If you will, I would love to see pics of the underside showing details of the joinery.e.g., does the tabletop "float" to allow for different expansion rates of the top and apron with humidity?
Bob

Bob,
I uncle has this table. I had to get him to email me these pics the other day to put it on here...
I will see if he will send me pics of the underside for you.

[Deese]

There are no hard and fast rules about how you have to saw a log.

You could take that big log, wedge it in place on the mill and trim the top off. 

Then flip it 180 and trim off the other side.

Now stand the log up again (your clamps should now fit) and just saw it to the deck. A whole heap of ~24" wide boards (that the mill will cut)

You will get a few boards from the centre of the log that will basically be Q-sawn (after you rip out the heart) Plenty enough to make a VG table in the same style anyway. You don't try and Q-saw the whole log, but you get a few perfect q-sawn boards, and a heap of useful flat / rift as well.

A bit of extra edging maybe but that's no big deal?

Ian

Extra edging isn't a big deal at all.
I don't know what I was thinking about quarter sawing a few of those logs...I was totally over-thinking the whole thing, as I usually do with most things :-[

I cut a bunch of smaller pine logs over the weekend...basically just made a square cant, and then just sawed 1" boards all the way down. And I did get  about 2 very nice quarter sawn boards from each log, which is all I would need for a small table.

I don't know why I didn't realize this to begin with...thanks everyone for the patience 

[slider]

The last dry and crispy poison ivy sent me to the doctor.I was all in it when it was green without a big outbreak but 6 months later when i milled it the stuff ate me up.Dock said the stuff is dormant for 4 years.watch out.

[Tim Lea]

If it was me I would cant the log down getting flat sawen boards to a cant that was easier to handel.. Then quater saw out some boards and then flat saw the rest..

[Jim_Wahl]

Flat sawn pine usually has better looking grain patterns than quarter sawn,
but a quarter sawn table top expands and contracts seasonally quite a bit
less than a flat sawn table top, which might be a consideration depending
on how you want to attach it to the legs.