my logs too big to move

[Al_Smith]

It would be a simple matter to side haul them onto a utility trailer if you can borrow one or own one .

[C. D. Nicolas]

OK, first try at posting, but maybe I can be of help.  For years I've delivered home security safes, read gun safes, using  PVC pipe. It's cheap, available, light and handy. Two pieces and you can move a 1900 lb safe. Get 4 or 5 inch or as big as local store has on hand.  If 3 point hitch will lift one end, it wont take any time at all. cut pipe to 3-4 ft length and pipe roll your logs.  The gophers in the lawn may have some proplems with this but they will just have to get over it.

[Al_Smith]

It would take a lot of cribbing and probabley steel pipe to move a log .Although I did move an 1800 pound Bridgeport milling machine across a concrete floor on 2" PVC pipe rollers .

[beenthere]

OK, first try at posting, but maybe I can be of help

C.D.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. That method should work well for going across the lawn.
It is one I use when I have to move an upright piano across the carpet.

Hope to hear more from you.

[thecfarm]

C. D. Nicolas,welcome to the forum. What's your interest with wood?

[LeeB]

A 2" pvc pipe will have a greater crush resistance than a larger diameter, but less rolling efficiency.

[Al_Smith]

Yeah PVC is strong but it would be better if it were schedual 80 instead of schedual 40 .

Now you gotta remember with a log the thing is round not flat .Therefore it would put a crush point on the plastic .Also if it isn't cribbed up right it would bend like a  noodle .

With a steel pipe say 3" you could probabley scoot a 6000 pound log without bending it provided you laid down a solid bed of cribbing .

Lawdy it would take a day of moving 2 by 12 cribbing planks and pipe rollers to move that log 100 feet .If you had to buy the planks and the pipe you'd have more money in it than the log is worth .

[just_sawing]

I honestly think you are over thinking this. Lift the rear end off the ground put something under it. (Three point lift will get it a little. Now that you have a fulcrum not at the very end you have effectively shorten the log when you life the other end. Now lift the other end. The amount that you have from your fulcrum on the back side has lightened what you lift now. Now place another fulcrum on the front end, When you have the rear end high enough place any type of trailer under the log and chain. Lift the front end with the lift and go

[drobertson]

Lots of good ideas,  I have used short pine logs in the past,  those are some big heavy ones for sure, 200 ft don't seem that far, but will be a chore for sure,   hope it all goes well for you,    david

[Magicman]

You don't need to use pipe to roll it across the lawn.  The log is round.  100' of rope and you can cross haul (par buckle) it anywhere.  I easily rolled 36"+ logs hundreds of feet after Hurricane Katrina, and we did not skin up any lawns.

[5quarter]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option...

Perhaps Redbeard and 5quarter...he only beat me by 4 min... ;) :D

MM...sounds easy when it isn't.  first he'll need a double line on his logs to keep them rolling straight and he will also need to tie off the bottom line to something stationary that is in line with the mill. Also, braking is dangerous on even a slight downhill grade. It can be done and I have done it several times, but its a real pain.
Here's another tried and true way to do it. Roll your log onto a couple 8-10' 4x4s like it's your log deck. put another set of 4x4s ahead of them with a wedge stop at the end. 2 people (maybe even one) will be able to roll the log along your makeshift deck much easier than if its on the ground. just leapfrog your 4x4s til your at the mill. maybe 20-30 min per log. use wedge stops to brake or hold your log while readjusting the 4xs.

[drobertson]

Par buckling is not a bad idea, just moving the longer section would be a chore, the shorter sections can be moved in position with less effort.  as said lots of good ideas here, a very doable task, just a task for sure,
david

[Magicman]

MM...sounds easy when it isn't.

I have moved too many very large logs with a 5/8" nylon rope.  Yes, you need an anchor point, but not a double line.  Just move the rope to the side that is falling behind.  It's funny to watch the customer's face when you roll a log up to the sawmill that his tractor would not budge.

[drobertson]

Par buckling is so easy, only thing needed is rails and a hands to correct the  direction of the log.  Along with allot of re-adjusting the chain, or rope, real simple, they role like a baby!  18 footers would still be a chore,  keep the roller bed well inside the flare of the log.       David

[haywire woodlot]

A variation of par buckling was the order of the day to move this 29" by 16' log to the mill. The 5/8" poly rope was wrapped half a dozen times led through a snatch block to a gentle pull from a truck. The log rolled about 40' in two pulls right into the loader.

[5quarter]

MM...A double line eliminates nearly all the "adjusting" involved. Especially useful when you are having to roll the log 100+'. As I said, a single line pull is possible, but a real pain. A double line is no more difficult to set up than a single...just need more rope. It is also safer. Many sawmilling accidents are actually log handling accidents. A double line provides much more control over the log, whether going up a ramp, loading on a mill or rolling along the back 9.  ;)

[Magicman]

I understand and would never use a single line for loading, but the big ones on the ground pose no danger and do not tend to turn anyway,  Most adjustments are because the butt end goes faster than the small end.   ;D

[LeeB]

When you do get ready to make an adjustment, roll it up on a small log pointed in the direction you want to turn. Try to get it centered in the log for balance and spinning it is easy.

[5quarter]

I need my butt end to go a little faster now and then :D :D

No real danger if you're working solo or if you're the one in the truck doing the pulling. The danger comes in when you have a second guy walking the log while you're pulling. I have seen one accident and have been party to another in just that situation. needless to say no one should be near that log while its in motion. I just don't want the OP to take any unnecessary risks, esp. if he recruits his neighbor, for example. log handling can be a dangerous activity, especially if you have little or no experience.

[Philngruvy]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option that fits the narrow parameters you laid out- you need to move big, long logs across your lawn without tearing it up. Take 4' long and say 8-10" diameter logs, they should be smooth and straight, and use them for rollers.

Get 3 sheets of plywood to lay down on the lawn.  Roll the logs across the plywood moving the last sheet to the front when it is clear of the roller logs.  This will make rolling much easier and virtually no damage to lawn.

[LeeB]

Plywood is pretty pricey these days. 

[Philngruvy]

Price is all relative.  Another alternate would be using pairs of 1X or 2X lumber that was cut on the mill. But really, the parbuckling seems like the best solution.

[terrifictimbersllc]

MM...A double line eliminates nearly all the "adjusting" involved. Especially useful when you are having to roll the log 100+'. As I said, a single line pull is possible, but a real pain. A double line is no more difficult to set up than a single...just need more rope. It is also safer. Many sawmilling accidents are actually log handling accidents. A double line provides much more control over the log, whether going up a ramp, loading on a mill or rolling along the back 9.  ;)

How does one pull in a double line? Seems like redirecting would take 2 pulleys and another to pull on the loop.  My capstan winch won't take in 2 lines at once.

[jdonovan]

How does one pull in a double line? Seems like redirecting would take 2 pulleys and another to pull on the loop.  My capstan winch won't take in 2 lines at once.

Anchor the line to a solid object, then run the line to the pulley which is attached to the thing you want to move, and then run the line to the winch/pulling device.

In a perfect world you have the 1st anchor on the same place you have the winch attached so the angle between the lines is 0 degrees. As you get more angle between the points you get less force on the object you are trying to move.

If you need to do redirection and double pulls, then you can use a lot more anchors & pulleys.

[clww]

Anchor the line to a solid object, then run the line to the pulley which is attached to the thing you want to move, and then run the line to the winch/pulling device.

In a perfect world you have the 1st anchor on the same place you have the winch attached so the angle between the lines is 0 degrees. As you get more angle between the points you get less force on the object you are trying to move.

If you need to do redirection and double pulls, then you can use a lot more anchors & pulleys.



I've used that method before to move some heavy logs. Just used several snatch blocks and a LONG section of wire rope.